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Help Finding DR350SE Cylinder Head


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Hey everybody, 

 

Last weekend my 96 dr350se stuck a valve and ruined my hole top-end. I have found a new jug and piston. Now i need the entire Cylinder head with valves. Also need new rockers.

 

If anyone has either of these laying on the shelf please let me know. Or is someone could point me in the right direction. it would be gratefully appritiated.

 

Ive been searching ebay with no luck.

 

Thanks in advance

TFIX

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Have you checked on ADV Rider forums? Look for Greg Bender on the DR350 forum, he is the guru!

What was cause of the implosion? How many miles on motor? Regular oil chages? What oil used?

Mine is same model, 9k miles. Good luck in quest!

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Mine had 7,900 miles when it just blew. I was doing 75 down the highway. My airbox opened up to much and she probably was running really lean. caused alot of damage. looks like it was detonating on the intake side and when i pulled it apart 1 exhaust valve was bent and stuck open....

 

Thanks for the tip, ill try over there.

 

TFIX

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Well there is a new head assmbly on ebay right now for 325$. Or on motosport, they have a head assmbly for 700$ its a shame that the heads are so expensive because the wear out faster than other bikes heads because we dont have bearings on out camshafts, they just spin on the head races. One of the downfalls of the dr's. suzuki couldnt spend 5$ extra per bike to make the cam sit on bearings :(

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Well there is a new head assmbly on ebay right now for 325$. Or on motosport, they have a head assmbly for 700$ its a shame that the heads are so expensive because the wear out faster than other bikes heads because we dont have bearings on out camshafts, they just spin on the head races. One of the downfalls of the dr's. suzuki couldnt spend 5$ extra per bike to make the cam sit on bearings :(

Fwiw, this is standard practice on engines with aluminum heads. I've never seen a Japanese cylinder head with bearing inserts although there may be some. Even Japanese car engines use the same design.

However, I agree it is the bike's Achilles heel. It seems to be a common early failure point and because replacement is so expensive it often means the end of the motorcycle. It's possible that the Suzuki design does not supply enough oil to the races. Because this motor and those like it use ball bearings instead of babbitt plain bearings on the crank it runs a very low oil pressure. Maybe that is part of the problem?? However, Honda and other manufacturers seem to be able to get away with this approach just fine and the DR650, which is just a larger version of 350, does not have this problem. Never, ever let your DR350 run low on oil! Oil degradation may also be a problem since the cylinder head runs quite hot. For that reason I added the optional oil cooler to mine and was surprised what a big difference it makes in engine operating temperature.

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Thanks for the tips. I saw that head on ebay also, gunna pass wait for one in better shape. I need the auto decompression cam too, for the E start... Just gunna keep searching, Anyone have a hole motor? ill even buy that at this point if the price is right! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to follow up,

 

I found a 98 dr350 (dirt model) on CL for cheap cash.

 

Bought it and Swapped the entire motor over.

 

Only thing i had to keep from the Se model Was the stator, which bolted right into the dirt case no problem.

 

So now i have a 1996 dr350S Kick start only, Pumper carb, Street legal.

 

Thanks for all the helpp.

 

FYI anyone looking for info on these bike advrider forum has a GREAT dr350 thread with lots of helpfull people.

 

Thanks

TFIX

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Just to follow up,

 

I found a 98 dr350 (dirt model) on CL for cheap cash.

 

Bought it and Swapped the entire motor over.

 

Only thing i had to keep from the Se model Was the stator, which bolted right into the dirt case no problem.

 

So now i have a 1996 dr350S Kick start only, Pumper carb, Street legal.

 

Thanks for all the helpp.

 

FYI anyone looking for info on these bike advrider forum has a GREAT dr350 thread with lots of helpfull people.

 

Thanks

TFIX

i sure hope you consider swaping the suspension from the dirt model. that year has much better forks and shock!  they will bolt right up to your bike. o and a bigger front axle to if I am not mistaken.

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I run an oil cooler also and it's so important to religiously check the oil level on these bikes. I run Maxima full syn 15 W-50( I live in the desert)  and change it out every 750 miles. Make sure and run a good quality oil or those cams  and what passes for a bearing surface wear.

Funny how you can't edit your posts a few days after making them- " Make sure and run a good quality oil or suffer the consequences of undue cam and bearing surface wear" Now I don't sound so much like an unintelligible pendejo!

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