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2003 yz 250 woods bike help

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New to the forum and Im trying to find info on building a good woods bike out of this steel frame yz.  There is just so much info thats its hard to dig through it all.  I did a 11oz fywheel weight last year and thats it.  Over the winter I rebuilt the bottom and top end then retarded the timing two degrees.  What a difference that made!!  Love the motor.  Problem now is suspension.  Next year Ill probably buy some SSS forks and shock but for this race season Im just gonna reshim mine.  Can somebody please point me in the right direction?

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I would do a search for it. There was a ton of discussion on how to make those forks work well here on thumpertalk.

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I think the steelies make great woods bikes.  The forks are not the easiest to work on, you have to get into the midvalve to make a difference.  Depending on how much you want to learn about suspension, it can be done but there is drilling, hammering, torching involved.  I'm not even kidding!   

 

Also, I'll have a set of FC revalved 03 forks for sale in a week or two.  I'm finally making the SSS jump myself.  Set up for hare scramble/enduro.  Will probably ask around $150.  Holler if interested.  Otherwise, search away in the suspension forum! 

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Depending on how hard the hit is and how you like it, a G-2 Ergo Throttle Tamer throttle tube will  make it a little softer and easier to handle.

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I looked at a G-2.  Not sure If its for me yet.  Gonna riding a gear higher first.  1st gear is too steep for anything right now. 

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My buddy has a g2 on his husky - my wrist gets sore from having to twist so much. I run 14-51 gearing and just make sure I'm going fast enough to use 3rd gear 90% of the time. 2nd gets on the pipe too quick and is too herky jerky to be used for anything other than tight tree weaving. 1st is a fail unless I'm on a hill.

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Completely agree C-P.   Our practice trails have a ton of tight stuff and fallen trees. 

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A Rekluse EXP 2.0 made my 2013 much more ridable for tight, tight single track. It still sucks as a technical woods bike but at least I don't stall it a 100 times per ride.

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The biggest gripe I have about woods riding with it is the gear ratios.  1st. is way too high for me.  I know it doesn't bother some guys but I guess it's HOW technical the trail is.  I'm still looking for gears to do the WR conversion.  I can handle all the other things - hard hitting power - light flywheel - but the gears...grrr.  I can't fault Yamaha.  This IS an MX bike.  I CAN fault them for not having a WR 2t.

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I have a steel frame as well set up for woods riding. I've done the flywheel and timing, both big improvement for tight woods. As stated above the wr tranny and the sss suspension are great mods, neither is cheap. Rad guards, skid plate and bark busters can actually save you money in the long run. And while your at it you might as well max out the card and get a large capacity tank and 18" rear wheel. Now your ready!

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I have a steel frame as well set up for woods riding. I've done the flywheel and timing, both big improvement for tight woods. As stated above the wr tranny and the sss suspension are great mods, neither is cheap. Rad guards, skid plate and bark busters can actually save you money in the long run. And while your at it you might as well max out the card and get a large capacity tank and 18" rear wheel. Now your ready!

You've summed up my wish list!

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You wont need a SSS shock. The 16mm 2003 shock can work fine.  Just soften the valving and drill out the ports to 3mm in the HSC adjuster.  Besides, Yamaha went back to the 18mm in the past year or two in the 4 strokes.

 

For $150 + post, I think you should be buying C-Ps woods valved single chamber forks!

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You wont need a SSS shock. The 16mm 2003 shock can work fine.  Just soften the valving and drill out the ports to 3mm in the HSC adjuster.  Besides, Yamaha went back to the 18mm in the past year or two in the 4 strokes.

 

For $150 + post, I think you should be buying C-Ps woods valved single chamber forks!

Yep, exactly on the shock and thanks for the endorsement!  My shock has the softer FC HSC comp spring already, and lots of guys say the 16mm is a bit better in the offroad.  As I just told MXvet - I just adjusted the oil height in these FC forks again a couple days back - had I done that sooner, might not have been buying the SSS stuff. 

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My buddy has a g2 on his husky - my wrist gets sore from having to twist so much. I run 14-51 gearing and just make sure I'm going fast enough to use 3rd gear 90% of the time. 2nd gets on the pipe too quick and is too herky jerky to be used for anything other than tight tree weaving. 1st is a fail unless I'm on a hill.

I'm not understanding this statement. Are you saying your wrist gets sore when riding your buddies husky with the G2?

Or your wrist gets sore from riding your own bike without one?

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I'm not understanding this statement. Are you saying your wrist gets sore when riding your buddies husky with the G2?

Or your wrist gets sore from riding your own bike without one?

Oh, it's worse trying to ride with the G2 because I gotta twist the grip so far to go. I prefer a shorter throw throttle that I can just blip when I need it. Depending on your experience and comfort level, I could see where it could help tho.

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Thanks for the clarification! I was under the impression that the total rotation was the same as stock, but that it "ramped up" quicker/slower depending on which cam you used.

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I thought the rotation WAS the same and the shape of the cam gave it the slower opening early - like the "ramp" thing you mentioned...but I'm not sure.  The G2 ergo. web site has a good description of the different cams they have including the "tamer" model.  So, if the "tamer is too tame, you can go closer to stock OR one profile, I think, is the same as stock.

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I think the one I've ridden was the tamer, so it seemed to never ramp up, or I'd have to crank to wide open every time I hit the gas. And then I'm trying to accelerate with my wrist at a weird angle. But I could see where it would help if you had some fire breather that was leaping out from under you. I think I'm just used to riding my fire breather up to about 1/4 throttle unless it's wide open space. At the end of the day, throttle control and timing is a huge part of woods riding, I can tell when off a bit in both, because suddenly I'm all over the place.

Edited by C-P

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