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TE 300 mpg

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I took my new TE 300 out for a break in ride and after 29 miles i ran out and had to switch to reserve. What is everyone else getting for miles to a tank?

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The bike is jetted to my temp and altitude recommendations in the owners manual.

Being in Rhode Island was there a drastic difference in the jetting from how the bike came stock? I don't like the fiddle too much til I have to.

Put a couple hours on the bike for the first time the other day. Seems like jetting could be of a tad

Edited by spinxtrm

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Being in Rhode Island was there a drastic difference in the jetting from how the bike came stock? I don't like the fiddle too much til I have to.

Put a couple hours on the bike for the first time the other day. Seems like jetting could be of a tad

it seemed to run good, maybe a little on the rich side. But it comes stock jetted for 1500ft an 68* F

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Just broke out the manual and noticed that. I'm going to go with the 0 to 1000 with a 61 degrees to 78 degrees. thank you

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The bike is jetted to my temp and altitude recommendations in the owners manual.

the manual is way off, its too rich

 

dont use it

 

btw you dont have to listen to me but 75 miles per tank is pretty good, and i have zero splooge on the pipe with 30 hrs

 

i use the stock pilot 

n3ch needle 3rd clip

165 main/ 162 also

mostly ride/desert race 2k-5k elevation, but have gone to 7k no problems

 

under 50F degrees drop clip and or adjust air screw

 

the stock needle sucks, tried the leaner supplied needle and the bike was rideable

Edited by UberJelly_moto1_race450
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I jetted mine TE300 per the book for the first higher alt setting as well.

Riding between 3-5k alt .

I got about 15mpg...... I guess the the spec is a little on the rich side....

I just threw a JD jetting kit in and set it to the next altitude setting up from norm, last couple of rides were waaaay better in feel and mpg up in the 20 somethings @ 25mpg. and exhaust is looking good and safe without excessive spooge/wetness

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After three rides it seems like it is pretty close the way it came for my riding in Connecticut

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jd jetting kit is a waste of money for these bikes, plenty of info on the interwebs to get close enough to being jetted correctly 

all good im happy with the bolt on simplicity factor of the JD kit (whose stuff is alos on the safe/rich side)  i dont believe 1/2 of what all the intertube experts post most are in the novice range in riding and beginner/hack spec in mechanical ability anyway. 

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Ok, I got my bike and put in the same 168mj 38 pilot I was running in my 14 KTM 300XC. It is obvious that this bike is not even remotely the same. I am running a 172 main and a 35 pilot. It is close but there is a bog off of idle. I'm thinking of going down another pilot size. I'll report back with the results.

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coming off a 500 4 stroke I battled a bit with my new '14 300 te initially - power was uneven, heavy on fuel and spooge all over the place - used the setup in the manual for altitude and temps (6-7k and 25c) but still not great. after quite a bit of research and talking to folk "in the know", I think its perfect now - power is 4 stroke linear right off idle, 3 cm spooge after 4 hours of riding, around 26 mpg, no stalling and runs cool. seems the manual is a tad rich (especially if riding tech with lugging rather than top end running. my setup 35pj, 162 mj, n4dl 3rd clip and air screw about 2 turns out. for my tech biased riding a 52 sprocket, 190g fww, powervalve 1.5 turns in from flush (yellow spring), a mapping switch, tubeliss and midwest mountain clutch lever have turned this machine into a magic carpet ride.

 

Lincolnlock - a bog off idle is typically from too small a pj - you could try turning the airscrew in a bit - if you have to turn it in further than 1.5 tuns from all the way in its probably good to go larger - hope that helps

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coming off a 500 4 stroke I battled a bit with my new '14 300 te initially - power was uneven, heavy on fuel and spooge all over the place - used the setup in the manual for altitude and temps (6-7k and 25c) but still not great. after quite a bit of research and talking to folk "in the know", I think its perfect now - power is 4 stroke linear right off idle, 3 cm spooge after 4 hours of riding, around 26 mpg, no stalling and runs cool. seems the manual is a tad rich (especially if riding tech with lugging rather than top end running. my setup 35pj, 162 mj, n4dl 3rd clip and air screw about 2 turns out. for my tech biased riding a 52 sprocket, 190g fww, powervalve 1.5 turns in from flush (yellow spring), a mapping switch, tubeliss and midwest mountain clutch lever have turned this machine into a magic carpet ride.

Lincolnlock - a bog off idle is typically from too small a pj - you could try turning the airscrew in a bit - if you have to turn it in further than 1.5 tuns from all the way in its probably good to go larger - hope that helps

Hi sory to jump in on this post, but i just noticed you said you come of the 500 4 stroke. Can i please ask howd you like the 2 stroke compared to 4 stroke? Im looking at buying either a husqvarna 300 or the 500. But im unsure of the 300 due to poor fuel economy and jetts , but love 2 strokes for there simplicity and i can rebuild them myself easy as, and unsure about 500 because of high cost rebuilds.

I just wanted to no your thoughts on the bikes, and did you go for 300 because of the easy maintenance factor?

I always riden 2 strokes, i curently ride a highly modified 2010 yz 250 2 stroke and love it, but been doin a bit of enduro riding latley and want to upgrade to a big bore with more legs.

Thanks.

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I got my 15' TE300 dialed in. NECJ needle from a 2007 RM250. 172 main. 35 pilot. The thing is pretty dialed. I came off a 450 and for the riding I like to do the 300 has my vote.

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Hey yzm, my reason for changing was for tech oriented riding and looking for a easier solution. I still have the 500 and its great for certain applications. What has surprised me about the 300 having never owned a 2 t was the obvious weight difference, how much tractoring ability it has. Id say it chugs as well as the 500 in nasty rocky or slippery stuff, how much less tiring it is to not have the big thuper engine braking pushing you into the bars, how the front wheel floats ove obstacles easier than the big 4 t. These bikes are very adjustable - you can set up almost any type of power curve you want from very linear ans smooth to ripping with a big hit. Fuel consumption is not an issue and the taks are pretty big. I think the husky suspension is also a winner. Good luck with your choice.

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