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1983 xl600 cam chain

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I finally broke into a free basket case bike & opened engine. (PO had it sitting outside in elements with no carbs nor exhaust) To my surprise! Insides looked rather good. (I was told exhaust valves hit piston because  rebuild was done improperly & never was started) One exhaust spring has a little rust & found lizard inside of cam cover. Doesn't apperar to be Geiko. Piston had two big dings from interference. & timing was out 180 degrees. I plan on measuring bore & re-ring, from slight rust. BUT big question is the cam chain seems loose, by my check; of pushing & pulling links in straight line, I can see/feel play.  Also when holding  tight aroundt top sprocket, there is a lot of slack at appex. I would like to replace the 2 bent valves, rusty springs, & install new valve seals & timing chain. Is the Moose timing chain any good? Or other recomendations? The sprocket on crank looks good but is looks good enough? Any dimensions for worn?

Lastly there was no hole or reed on head, just solid. ???

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An '83 with no reed means the head is not original.

 

The lower sprocket is likely fine if there is no obvious wear.

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And it's there either to keep the right intake valve cool when the secondary carb is closed or it's there to ensure fuel (and thus detergents) are always available to prevent deposits. Maybe both.

 

Later non-reed heads used a crossover passage in the carb manifold to serve the same purpose.

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So should I drill  a passage thru? Also are all timing chains alike? I see moose & Pro something? I want quality.

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So should I drill a passage thru? Also are all timing chains alike? I see moose & Pro something? I want quality.

If your intake manifold and carburetor insulator have the crossover, then I would think that the later model head was installed with the crossover manifold and insulator. I believe the '83 had two

o-rings where the crossover design uses one o-ring / gasket that looks like the outline of a " U " but with extra wide legs to encircle the intake ports.

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If your intake manifold and carburetor insulator have the crossover, then I would think that the later model head was installed with the crossover manifold and insulator. I believe the '83 had two

o-rings where the crossover design uses one o-ring / gasket that looks like the outline of a " U " but with extra wide legs to encircle the intake ports.

Can you tell me if there is supposed to be dowell pins on either side of the cam bearings on an xl600? I see two holes on the outside of cam pockets. Mine was making a terrible clanking. Upon teardown I found that the bearing opposite of the chain was off the shaft and Lang in the pocket the bike ran awesome. I had just rebuilt top end and there were no pins in there and I couldn't find anything in the manual.

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So should I drill  a passage thru? Also are all timing chains alike? I see moose & Pro something? I want quality.

 

I don't know about what chain in the best.  I think I replaced mine with an OE or Weiseco.

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Can you tell me if there is supposed to be dowell pins on either side of the cam bearings on an xl600? I see two holes on the outside of cam pockets. Mine was making a terrible clanking. Upon teardown I found that the bearing opposite of the chain was off the shaft and Lang in the pocket the bike ran awesome. I had just rebuilt top end and there were no pins in there and I couldn't find anything in the manual.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2539628&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1985&fveh=132491

 

Pin each outer side of both bearings..Part 28 in the above..you want 2..

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Awesome. Thanks. I actually found a picture in another section that skews there is indeed pins that are supposed to be in those holes.

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Day two of having the bike back in action. Thanks for the link to that drawing. Hard to believe that there isn't anything in my manual especially of something that important. The pins did the trick. No more clunking. Also a little piece of mind having ran it about 500 miles, enough to show witness marks of the piston travel. Looks like where I had squeezed the sleeve while boring it, causing it to be slightly out of round and oversize is noon consequential. The skirt only rides down that far and only about 20 degrees on each pin side of the piston. Just lucky enough that not any part of the piston or rings comes into contact with the not perfect bore section. Runs great, runs quieter than when I took ownership. Cam bearing keeper pins seem to be an integral part of this.

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