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hey guys,

i'm putting some fresh rims and spokes on my rmz...but i wasn't thinking enough while cutting all the spokes.

the rear rum has some offset, but i forgot to measure it. i couldn't find information about in the manual. Anyone knows it? 

and there are two different spoke lenghts, the longer ones are on the braking side right? 

 

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lace it up loose. Remount the wheel, align the adjustment marks on the axle then center the rim in the swingarm. The long spokes go sprocket side.My rim is approximetly 2 3/8 on both sides so it is centered in the swingarm. I hope you have 2 dial indicators. You can build two squeal indicators if you dont have dials.

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Do it yourself, learn it and you'll know how. I hate thinking about who they might have doing it. You can get dial indicators from harbor freight for less than 15 bucks a piece. Set one up for radial and one for lateral. Mark 4 positions 90 degrees and work two spokes opposite from each other till you have it close. Don't tighten them yet just get a little tension on them at this point them bring all the other spokes up to the same tension. Your just trying to get even tension and the rim rolling true. At this point you will have figured out how tightening/loosening spokes affects your dials and how to "pull" it in to true. It sounds complicated but really it isn't. After you do one, you'll have it. Shoot for .002 radial and lateral runout.

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I should elaborate more on the runout your shooting for. Lateral is more important than radial. If you end up .005 radial runout, don't sweat it. A typical tire runs out .008-.01 on a good tire. Also after your shake down ride go back and check the spoke tension again. If they have loosened some re mount your lateral dial and re tension them. Good luck.

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All longer one side on rear? Interesting. I know Talon hubs like that. Stock Yam and Hon not like that. Inner longer and outer shorter (mixed both sides).

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yes, all longer on one side.

 

I trued rims before, but it was a pain in the ass and if someone else does it for about 30$ i'm gonna let him do it. I don't have a stand so the last time i did with the rim installed and the swingarm as a kind of truing stand replacement...

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Wish I would've read this article 2 days ago! I assume it's probably the same across the board for a 2013 rmz450, correct? Thanks!

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All longer one side on rear? Interesting. I know Talon hubs like that. Stock Yam and Hon not like that. Inner longer and outer shorter (mixed both sides).

As you stated my "05" uses shorts and longs on both sides of the rear rim. On my 2008 Service Honda Kawasaki 450/500AF there are nine spokes longer than the rest on the rear and those go on the brake side. My "05" uses the Excel GES422. If the newer Suzuki's are still using this rim then putting all the long spokes on one side would also make me a little suspicious? 

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Sittin down to watch them now! Thanks for taking the time to help a stranger, why this place is so awesome

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I actually got the parts via support program at RK excel--soo I reached out to their Jack of All sales, marketing, technical & rider support dude Cole Anderson-- what he told me could help a few hundred internet people's-- so I thought I'd post it:

Hey Matt,

Sorry to hear you’re running into trouble with lacing up the Suzuki RM-Z450 wheels. Lol The first time is always a pain.

So for the 2005-2015 Suzuki RM-Z 250/450 there are actually two different spoke lengths and they do matter where the spokes go. I know the forums provide a bunch of help for all moto related things but it could also provide some false information.

You have (18) spokes that are 207mm in length that will be your long inner spokes (A)

You have (18) spokes that are 205mm in length that will be your shorter outer spokes (B)

As you know on the hub, the spoke holes closest to the sprocket and rotor are going to be the outer spoke holes and where you will put the (B) spokes in. Then the spoke holes closest to the center of the hub will be the inner spoke holes and you will put the (A) spokes in. One thing you can do to distinguish the longer spokes from shorter spokes is to get a marker and mark the spoke head (top of the spoke that sits at the hub) on either the longer spoke or short spoke (your pick, but just make sure to do one of the other). This will help when you get everything soft laced up and look over everything before you start tightening everything down.

Since it is your first time lacing a wheel, I would use a spoke torque wrench to make sure everything is torqued down to the correct spec (46-48in/lbs or 5.4nm). This way you know everything is torque exactly the same and nothing is too loose or too tight. Yes, some wheel builders know the wheels are good by doing the whole tap the spoke and hear the “bing” to determine the tightness but those guys are of another breed.

Then you will have to set the wheel to the correct offset (35.50). There should be some wheel lacing videos on YouTube that should be able to help you with this part. I do not have any photos I can attached to help describe this part to you so I would look at YouTube for this. Or if you can, see if someone near you can come over and help walk you through building this wheel.

If you do find a good video on YouTube, it shouldn’t be that hard to get everything set and torqued to spec. Try doing what I said above and if you run into any problems, I will help you from there.

Feel free to give me a call if you need me to discuss further in depth.

Edited by dirtscoot26
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"If you put the inners on before the outers it'll get really tight as you go around.." - why have I been under the impression other videos told me to do it the other way around

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"If you put the inners on before the outers it'll get really tight as you go around.." - why have I been under the impression other videos told me to do it the other way around

Try it and you'll see what I'm talking about. You can always start all over again and lace from the outers first. Just trying to save you some grief. If you want to lace the inners first you will have a tougher time. I'm almost 60 years old and do not shoot from the hip. I take aim!

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ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1457764296.876483.jpg

I'm on board with that. I've tried (n maybe cried) all other options.

So I plan to:

Outer spokes on first, both sides

(No interference problems)

- but the outers still rest On top of the inners, correct?

**Oh and side Note for others-- My 2013 has the same OEM rear hub part #'s (64111-35G00 or 64111-35G20) as the '05 Rmz450 seen above

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You sir have won the Internet for the day... Why have I talked to and seen 15 different things yet no one mentioned this? This is why I coined a term for the knowledge you bestow on us youngsters; The Founding Forum Fathers

Next I shall journeys into the next video in your sequence in hopes of regaining a bit more of my self esteem-- a war's been waged on my 19 years of mechanical knowledge..

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You sir have won the Internet for the day... Why have I talked to and seen 15 different things yet no one mentioned this? This is why I coined a term for the knowledge you bestow on us youngsters; The Founding Forum Fathers

Next I shall journeys into the next video in your sequence in hopes of regaining a bit more of my self esteem-- a war's been waged on my 19 years of mechanical knowledge..

I was a jet engine mechanic in the Navy and also hold an FAA Airframe and Power Plant license. Doesn't make me a dirt bike expert but I try to post legit information. If there's any doubt or I'm unsure I won't post. I'll try to do a video in the next couple of days on how I true the wheel. There's usually more than one technique but I try to pick the path of least resistance. Glad you got your wheel put together!

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Your expertise in other fields seems to applied accurately here! I seemed to have gotten the rear wheel true, but now with the front one it seems a half dozen spokes on the front wheel are just too long-- when I try to tighten them down by hand these ones simply run out of thread... Think this is really strange-- any thoughts, they seem to be on both sides so it doesn't seem to be an off center problem...

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