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No torque for Valve Job?

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Hey group, first off you are all amzing! Without this forum I would be toast.

 

I was just readin in the FAQ section about vavle clearence and adjustment. Everything went smooth on the adjustment( the bike has only about 5,000 kms and all the valve clearences were small. Exhaust were both under 0.10 and the intake were smaller at 0.04 and the other was pretty much tight, could not fit .0015 feeler gauge under. :S) So now I am about to re tighten the cam caps( 8 bolts 2 long) and valve cover (3 bolts with rubber washers) and E. Marquez goes on to say forget using a torque wrench and go finger tight then snug them up.

 

Can anyone verify this? I heard it is a very sensitive area with the head being aluminium and steel bolts. I heard to think of it as you were scrwing into plastic! :s I do not want to mess them up and feel good enough to take a stab but just want a second opinion. Otherwise Ill take it to shop and have them button it up quickly.

 

Thanks all.

 

-M

 

'01 DR-Z400e

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It is a sensitive area.what you think snug is could be to loose or too tight or just right.you have to snug bolts a few times to get used to what snug is.if you can get a hold of a 1/4 drive torque wrench the torque is 7lbs initial then torque to 10lbs.dont forget to clean the gasket surfaces and use rtv sealant for the half moon portion of the gasket.

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Hey group, first off you are all amzing! Without this forum I would be toast.

 

I was just readin in the FAQ section about vavle clearence and adjustment. Everything went smooth on the adjustment( the bike has only about 5,000 kms and all the valve clearences were small. Exhaust were both under 0.10 and the intake were smaller at 0.04 and the other was pretty much tight, could not fit .0015 feeler gauge under. :S) So now I am about to re tighten the cam caps( 8 bolts 2 long) and valve cover (3 bolts with rubber washers) and E. Marquez goes on to say forget using a torque wrench and go finger tight then snug them up.

 

Can anyone verify this? I heard it is a very sensitive area with the head being aluminium and steel bolts. I heard to think of it as you were scrwing into plastic! :s I do not want to mess them up and feel good enough to take a stab but just want a second opinion. Otherwise Ill take it to shop and have them button it up quickly.

 

Thanks all.

 

-M

 

'01 DR-Z400e

Well I guess since it is my write up you want a second opinion on my response here is no good.. :p  :p

 

But for all others that might read this response.. The suggestion to forgo the torque wrench is, due to most not having a calibrated Inch pound 1/4 drive TQ wrench suitable for this fastener.

 

If you have several hundred dollar inch pound 1/4 drive tq wrench that is in current calibration, by all means use it.  I do.

 

If you have a wallyworld 3/8 drive ft lb tq wrench ..forget it....... unless you enjoy installing thread repair inserts. 

This has been a public service announcement, no puppies have been harmed in the making.

My name is E.Marquez and I approve this post

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Thank you E. Your second opinion is very much valued.

 

Wally world would have been my route if I had the cash, good thing eh?

 

So maybe we could de-mistify this becuase I think we can all get finger tight pretty bang on the same. So from there how far is the bolt being turnt? I know its not much at all and its kinda a wierd area to take a measurment from but maybe there is some may to make this not such a shot in the dark.  What happenes if they come loose? With the cams ovalize the head?

 

Thanks again E.

 

-M

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FYI, because your description is a little confusing…. You should be checking the valve clearance with the camshaft caps tightened.

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That was done, sorry if I made it confusing. Just wanted to get everyone up to speed, I am just a little concerned one intake valve might be shot with it being so tight.

 

I followed the Cymer Manual on this job and the FAQ section by E. Marquez. Any ideas on how far past finger tight snug means in this case?

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You can do what i did and take a cheap 1/4" drive wrench and mate it with a calibrated wrench and double check it. I used a calibrated wrench at work and my cheap wrench was spot on. The spec is not much torque at all.

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I forgot to ask as well, what are you guys using to clean the valve cover gasket? Mine got all oily.

Thanks

-M

brake clean

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You can do what i did and take a cheap 1/4" drive wrench and mate it with a calibrated wrench and double check it. I used a calibrated wrench at work and my cheap wrench was spot on. The spec is not much torque at all.

After being a calibrator for the military for several years, I can't help but laugh a little when I hear this, it works yes but the factory tolerance is pretty much thrown out the window due to each wrenches compounded inaccuracy. I saw two guys at work check the accuracy of a harbor freight torque wrench by attaching it to a snap on wrench, interesting to say the least.

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You can do what i did and take a cheap 1/4" drive wrench and mate it with a calibrated wrench and double check it. I used a calibrated wrench at work and my cheap wrench was spot on. The spec is not much torque at all.

After being a calibrator for the military for several years, I can't help but laugh a little when I hear this, it works yes but the factory tolerance is pretty much thrown out the window due to each wrenches compounded inaccuracy. I saw two guys at work check the accuracy of a harbor freight torque wrench by attaching it to a snap on wrench, interesting to say the least.

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After being a calibrator for the military for several years, I can't help but laugh a little when I hear this, it works yes but the factory tolerance is pretty much thrown out the window due to each wrenches compounded inaccuracy. I saw two guys at work check the accuracy of a harbor freight torque wrench by attaching it to a snap on wrench, interesting to say the least.

I'm an engineer, a real one with a degree, so I'm not a retard and the DRZ isn't the space shuttle. The guy was asking for advice to feel good about the torque meeting spec, what's your advice? I must have missed it.

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I'm an engineer, a real one with a degree, so I'm not a retard and the DRZ isn't the space shuttle. The guy was asking for advice to feel good about the torque meeting spec, what's your advice? I must have missed it.

Well I appreciate that you went to school and earned that degree, but it's kind of like having a penis, it's great you have it, it's wonderful to be proud of it, but it's really not necessary to ram it down everyone's throats. And thank you again for somehow trying to establish yourself as superior because you have said degree.

So Mr. Engineer, since us peons and half wits have absolutely no clue what we're doing, please show us the way.

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Well I appreciate that you went to school and earned that degree, but it's kind of like having a penis, it's great you have it, it's wonderful to be proud of it, but it's really not necessary to ram it down everyone's throats. And thank you again for somehow trying to establish yourself as superior because you have said degree.

So Mr. Engineer, since us peons and half wits have absolutely no clue what we're doing, please show us the way.

Lol u mad bro? I suggested OP could buy a cheap wrench and check it against a known good one to save him money and concern. I suppose you have a full set of NIST traceable torque wrenches at home since you hold calibration so sacred, or maybe you hire out your work, but I'm too cheap for that. When I followed the excellent write up here I too was concerned about finger tight so I bought a wrench and double checked it and was offering OP an option he may not have considered.  But please, tell me more about your penis theories..

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