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inner cartridge not fully extending after being compresed

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I'm fishing for ideas on my 06 450x

I have disassembled and cleaned and loaded my inner chambers and one fails to fully extend after being compressed about the last 1/2 inch don't kick out fully. I suspect bleeding was not complete and have worked and worked the stroke to get out all the air I can but still that one don't extend all the way.

I have seccesfully changed the oil in the past but this time its not going so well for me so I left it hanging upright and will try again in the mourning but thought I should ask what else could it be if I have bleeded the hell out of it and it isn't extending fully? I thought I cleaned them up extra good but I'm asking?

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There is a seal in the inner cartridge that can go bad. That is normally the symptom, not extending.

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That's a Showa right?

It's a very good time to be replacing the cartridge seal head and piston free seal. Both are available through most suspension shops or just email rideJBI.com ( google it ) they are relatively inexpensive and like any seal they wear and cause havoc!!

The seal head at the bottom is a bit of a pita to get out as it's 'peened' ( dimples into the threads )

JBI can do the job for you for cheap ( but good workmanship ) if you don't feel like stuffing round ;)

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I never have had an inner cartridge apart more than take the top out to change oil what do I need to know? any other checks to confirm its that seal  ?

the extension and compression did feel a little rough before I cleaned and rinsed it multiple times with brake clean then a fork oil re rince and it moved freely so i added oil and now it sticks.

this bike has 10 hrs on it- like newbut....

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Ok never use brake cleaning on the damper rod housing!! There is a seal down in the seal head that will be destroyed with the brake cleaner.

Even when I remove all the seals I still only use dish washing soap from my kitchen....

To get to the most common seal ( piston free seal ) you need to remove the valving stack ( so you have to CAREFULLY file the peening around the nut that holds the valve stack ) then you can remove the piston and shaft to get to the seal, you have to heat the piston body to get the seal out...

Pity, the kyb units are much easier ....

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I think the valve stack is easy enough to understand how to take it off, just take your time.

To remove the piston loosen this nut ( careful it's aluminium )

A36F97F6-D29A-462C-B517-D98DA31A3845-277

Literally head the piston ( aluminium part )

C4592E8B-E818-4B89-9B69-A79D526AF619-277

Use inverted pliars to remove easily ( you might want to replae the bushing too )

82DD4EE0-762A-4262-ACE4-376D596CCE89-277

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