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Kdx 200 Top End Torque Spec?

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Hey guys, working on a free bike and it came to me without a piston installed. The bike overheated and locked up, and my cuz took the top end apart thinking the crank had failed. Piston and cylinder are actually in pretty good shape, so for now im gonna toss some new gaskets at it and see hpw she runs!

I need a few bits from the service manual, I plan to buy one if I end up keeping it, but for now, would someone mind looking up some specs for me?

Need:

Cylinder nut torque

Head nut torque

Piston ring gap service limit

Replacing all top end gaskets, cleaning out the cylinder with some scotch brite pads, soap and water, and putting it back together with the old ring and piston, with new wrist pin circlips. All are visually in ok shape, and I just want to get some riding in while I rebuild my other bike.

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Its fine for a free bike, the piston and cylinder are in good enough shape to ride for a bit, then when I get my other bike back together, if it lasts, it will get a full tear down and rebuild just like my wr.

Im not going into this thinking it will last forever, if the piston explodes it doesn't really matter to me in the long run. I will be measuring the piston and bore, and if both are within the service limits, im gonna run it for a bit. I just need a trail bike.

Now that is out of the way I just need some spec to get the top end back together, thanks

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I've never used a torque wrench but its not a bad idea if you don't like doing these things by feel.  I'd do 25 ft-lbs on the head nuts in a star pattern and 35 on the cylinder base nuts.  Get them just snug first to make sure everything is seated flat and nothing is hanging up.  You will usually have to go back over them a few times because the first one you tightened will usually need more torque after the rest are tightened.

Edited by turbo dan

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I found a thread that mentioned the ring gap limit near. 06, does that sound like ballpark? New wisecos recommend no less than .01

Havnt found a wear limit measurement for the bore yet

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If the crosshatching is gone the bore is worn but serviceable if you're going to put it together with old parts.  If the plating is worn through or flaked anywhere the cylinder will need replating.  It usually goes away first above and below the exhaust port.

 

The rings don't wear uniformly like they do in a four stroke.  You'll see wear appear where the ring rides on the bore between the transfer ports.  Just put the rings into the bore like you're checking end gap and check to see if they are making contact all the way around.  If you've got gaps the ring is done for.

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Makes sense. the cross hatching is barely noticeable and there is no flaking or noteable wear in a certain spot. There are some verticle marks on the piston but none that you can feel with a finger nail.

Cleaning the jug and removing the KIPS valves for cleaning. They moved smooth but when I opened up the bigger cover there was a ton of carbon and gunk built up. Got a little more cleanup on jug and piston and ill set the rings in the see how worn they look

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