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Shim factory setting size needed for valve adjustment.

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Hello, This is my first post and I'm new to TT.  I recently acquired a 2008 KLR650 (which by the way I absolutely love) and I'm working on adjusting my valves, I already measured its clearances and found this helpful online calculator: http://www.carguy.org/klr650/shims.html however I'm unsure of what the shim factory setting size is and it is essential to get the right shims. Does anybody know what the factory settings are?

 

Thank you!

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actually.... it's listed at the top of the calculator. normal range is:

 

.006 to .010 for EX

 

.004 to .008 for IN

 

I mic my shims & do a selective fit so that the clearances match valve to valve. for instance, both ex valves have the same clearance & then will open together and close together. if you get it right it's one of the things that makes the engine smoother

Edited by Beezerboy
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actually.... it's listed at the top of the calculator. normal range is:

 

.006 to .010 for EX

 

.004 to .008 for IN

 

I mic my shims & do a selective fit so that the clearances match valve to valve. for instance, both ex valves have the same clearance & then will open together and close together. if you get it right it's one of the things that makes the engine smoother

 

Thank you. I found that the shim thickness range will usually run from .260 to .235 for stock heads and valves.. (factory settings) I'm going to have to pull it apart to measure to avoid guessing wrong...

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oooop.... I answered the wrong question. by my experience I'd say they are a bit thicker when new. more like 2.75 to 2.55 (but thats almost all Gen I bikes).  KLR valves almost always tighten up when with miles. from checking maybe 40 different KLRs over about 12 years.... one valve looser, the rest tighter. so ya, you should check them & see what you need now, and take a good guess for the next one. don't bother buying a pre-made kit.... has too many thick ones. I buy from Rockey Mountain because of price. early BMW K bikes & KZ1300 had the same 29mm shim. the BMW ones were cheaper than Kawi.... go figger. also, the thicknesses vary even when new, so I measure each one (as last post). a thick one can be made thinner on a surface grinder. I have also thinned some with sand paper on glass.... hot glue the shim to a dowel & do figure 8s. they are high alloy steel, through hardened... not surface hardened. I gound one down & shot it on the Rockwell tester just to see. 49 on the C scale everywhere

 

 

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/922/27120/K-%26-L-Valve-Shim

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oooop.... I answered the wrong question. by my experience I'd say they are a bit thicker when new. more like 2.75 to 2.55 (but thats almost all Gen I bikes).  KLR valves almost always tighten up when with miles. from checking maybe 40 different KLRs over about 12 years.... one valve looser, the rest tighter. so ya, you should check them & see what you need now, and take a good guess for the next one. don't bother buying a pre-made kit.... has too many thick ones. I buy from Rockey Mountain because of price. early BMW K bikes & KZ1300 had the same 29mm shim. the BMW ones were cheaper than Kawi.... go figger. also, the thicknesses vary even when new, so I measure each one (as last post). a thick one can be made thinner on a surface grinder. I have also thinned some with sand paper on glass.... hot glue the shim to a dowel & do figure 8s. they are high alloy steel, through hardened... not surface hardened. I gound one down & shot it on the Rockwell tester just to see. 49 on the C scale everywhere

 

 

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/922/27120/K-%26-L-Valve-Shim

 

Thanks again! I talked to a friend who has far more experience than I do and he basically told me the same opinion, he also shops at Rocky Mountain and I'm starting to shop there because of him too. I honestly appreciate your help. Have a great day!

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