Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

xr650r electrical fun

Recommended Posts

First of all, hello everyone. Long time lurker and now that I finally bought a 2001 XR650R I need your help.
20140525_184030_zpsa11ea461.jpg

It looks like the OP installed a light kit on the bike, but I have no idea what kind and it is not hooked up correctly.

1. Turn signals stay on, do not flash
2. There is a battery but everything turns off when bike is powered off
3. Headlight and brake light pulse with RPMs (ac?)

So I am not sure if it's wired for DC since the turn signals don't flash and the power goes out with the bike. Don't know if I have a aftermarket or rewound stator because...
In another post XRIDER posted "A stock stator will have 4 wires comming out of the case (brn, blk/red, grn, wht/yel), a rewound stator will have 6 wires exiting the case (4 plus the 2 white wires). " and I have this coming out of the stator wiring
20140526_091129_HDR_zpscd97cd4c.jpg

I'm not sure If I should just buy a new kit and start over since some connections have 4 different color wires spliced together before they go anywhere like the one I'm holding here.

20140526_091309_HDR_zps26156cbc.jpg

This is all the stuff that's around the battery if anyone can tell me what's what. I can see the CDI box and I guess some kinda Relay but not sure if the other box is a rectafier or a regulator or what.

20140526_091054_HDR_zps4683691c.jpg

20140526_090916_HDR_zps65100eb6.jpg

20140526_090901_HDR_zpsa6939b64.jpg

There is also a fuse in the red holder, a blue one (15 amp I think) that was blown, not sure what circuit that is really protecting so I didn't replace it yet.


What I really want to do is just to switch all the lights to LED's and run a single DC system. What is your suggestion on what I should do with this mess? try to fix the mess of the OP or just buy a procycle harness and start over?

Thank you everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The box with the green epoxy and two mounting tabs is the voltage regulator, the Denso box is your ignition, and the last little square box is your flasher unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First thing is you have a stock stator it has two coils one for cdi thats the black/red and Brown wires. The other two is lighting coil that should go to reg/rec battery. Now the bad news it puts out about 65 watts thats not enough to run everything!  And if the headlight thats on it is more than 35 watts that is stock thats why lights pluse at idle. You will need a Ricky Stator hi output stator.

 

Two it looks like it has a relay where a flasher should be?

 

Three I dont understand why lights go on/off with motor! If it was converted to DC system stock its a AC system and it looks like it has been converted to DC then it would need a switch to turn lights on/off so dont get whats going on there!

 

Here is a stock wire diagram now it is miss labeled on reg/rec stock it has a AC reg

XR650 WIRE.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small off-topic question, I see a bolt attaching the sub-frame, but no nut on the other end.  Did you remove it for some reason, or is it missing?

 

I also have an '01 XRR.  Mine came with a BD lighting kit & used the stock stator with a regulator & small ni-cad battery.  My turn signal flasher was up front behind the headlight.  Do you know what kind of lighting kit is on your bike?  Is it something the OO cobbled together?

 

I have since upgraded to a Ricky Stator with one circuit feeding the headlight & the other feeds the taillight/turn signals.  There are many examples of wiring set ups on here to help you out.  Good luck.

 

ACE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small off-topic question, I see a bolt attaching the sub-frame, but no nut on the other end.  Did you remove it for some reason, or is it missing?

 

I also have an '01 XRR.  Mine came with a BD lighting kit & used the stock stator with a regulator & small ni-cad battery.  My turn signal flasher was up front behind the headlight.  Do you know what kind of lighting kit is on your bike?  Is it something the OO cobbled together?

 

I have since upgraded to a Ricky Stator with one circuit feeding the headlight & the other feeds the taillight/turn signals.  There are many examples of wiring set ups on here to help you out.  Good luck.

 

ACE

I did notice that as well, it was done by the PO and I'm not sure if that part is threaded or is just gona come out eventually so I will get a nut for it with a lock washer next time.

I'm not sure what kinda kit it is, It does not look like Baja Design from the pics in their kit. It has some kinda aftermarket fender with the tailight and signals attached to it (I got the stock red one along with the bike), but the wiring looks too butchered up to make me think its a kit, plus it has a stock headlight with no signals on the front at all.

 

I do want to get a bigger stator and just run everything off DC, headlight tailight and signals all LED plus probably 2 fans for the radiators. I have been reading a lot about the setup I'm trying to do but most people get the 250 stator and then do the 2x150 for ac/ dc.

 

Can I just run 250 straight into one rec/reg  and then into the battery? or will it need beefier wires for that? Then I was reading about the putting the reg/rec on each of the 2x150 legs but then how well will that charge the battery, or overcharge it...

 

I'm looking at buying the pro cycle kit harness and then just buy everything else seperate since i've got most of what i need (besides front signals). Does anyone know the kinda hydralic switch I need for the front and rear brakes? is it 1.25mm or 1.00mm? Pro Cycle lists xr650L so not sure if those components are the same.

 

 

MASTERA 210 "Two it looks like it has a relay where a flasher should be?

Three I dont understand why lights go on/off with motor! If it was converted to DC system stock its a AC system and it looks like it has been converted to DC then it would need a switch to turn lights on/off so dont get whats going on there!"

 

LOL, I was really scratching my head on that one to. The picture on the top makes it seem to me like a relay and not a flasher, the PO also installed a secret hidden killswitch for ignition I guess (switch has a light on it) and he told me "I left it on before and forgot to switch it off when the bike was off and I think it drained the battery" ... I'm not sure what he was talking about as to me it seems like it's just running everything off AC but thats what I just want to start over and do it correctly.

 

 

Thank you for the explanations in the pictures.

Edited by RadRider77

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With respect to the nut, I do have one with lockwasher on mine, but the # of threads covered by same is minimal, such as it looks like yours will be.

 

If using just one rectifier, I would think it would have to be much beefier.  I have one AC regulator for the headlight, and one DC reg/rectifier for the battery, turn signals, taillight, & such.  I also only have the 200W stator with dual 100W outputs.  You can find current carrying capacity of wiring such as 14, 16, & 18ga on line to help determine if your wiring will be up to par.  Basically, P=EI can help you with current draw.  So 250W total divided by 12V system gives about 21 amps, total.  This will spread out across various circuits, but if you size each wire for the max, you're bound to be ok :D ... this is a gross over-simplification (before someone else jumps all over my ass) but you get the idea.  For example, per a table I just looked up, 16ga chassis wiring (auto related I believe) can handle up to 22A, probably why you see a lot of 16ga in autos.  18ga, another typical gauge, can carry 16A, so careful study of your circuits will help you decide if you can put the lighter wire in various areas.

 

Hope this helps,

ACE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your right carlgustav, there like 3 threads sticking out. I don't get it though, is that one long as bolt that threads thru that whole section? Or is it just smooth in the middle and there is suppose to be a nut on the end? The OP really rigged a few things on this one.

 

Ok so either way looks like I'm getting Ricks stator and the rec/reg. Does anyone have any experience with the Pro Cycle wiring kit? They have an option for a Make Your Own Harness, which makes it a bit cheaper since I don't need a headlight or the other stuff. It lists it under xr650L but that should be the same as far as adding the harness anywas right? I do plan to run just one DC channel and put everything on it... Maybe I'll give them a call tomorrow as see what they say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked at the bolt on BikeBandit (OEM XR650R parts).  It appears to be threaded as if meant to screw into the subframe.  Also, no nut is shown as being available for the end.  So my conclusion is that the nut on my setup is there as additional 'security' :ride:  ...

 

ACE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take look here for Ricky Stator I would wire it for single 200watt output. Trail Tech has a trick Reg/Rec that has a built in 12v switch that will automatic turn off/on lights with motor. Then a Antigravity 4cell lit/ion battery you can put in your pocket!

 

http://www.rickystator.com/04technical/img/honda/RSXR650.pdf

 

http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag401/

 

http://www.trailtech.net/7004-rr150

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then you could use a small key switch that you tap into kill button  that would ground ing thats how kill button works. You keep kill button then use the key switch for a alarm system you would put key in turn it to ground ing then take it out. Then put in turn to unground ing take it out and use kill button. Im using that setup because one time I broke off key one time! Here is pic of my dash with switch that im working on XR

CAM00117.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, sorry for being away from this for a bit, but I finally got my Vancouver Supermoto Harness, rick stator, and the trail tech r/r.

 

Everything on the new harness was easy to install and hook up, so I got the horn working now, the rear brake lights work with both front and rear brakes, and got the rear signals working. And so this is where I am at after today ( still working on getting that crf450r rear fender to fit, i know its crooked).

20140713_182151_zpsbd2db93b.jpg

20140713_182144_zpsa2a14dc2.jpg

 

Looks like the OP made his own harness and no wonder nothing worked...

20140712_175629_zps9b10fe2f.jpg

Cause it must be really hard to diagnose anything when more then half the wires are yellow...

also, if you focus your attention to the center of the image on the wire connected with the spade connectors.. it goes from yellow, to red, then to green... who does this?

20140712_154702_zpsc4f14583.jpg

 

So after cutting out the rats nest I've hit a wall on the factory wiring.... in the picture couple posts above posted by mastera210 of the factory harness, it shows the green wire leading out of the stator, and the CDI and the coil. In the diagram looks like they are just connected together and then grounded to the frame somewhere... well on my bike the green wire comes off the 2 pin connector from the stator and then is spliced into a black wire that is bolted to the frame eventually, I'm not keeping the black wire as it ran into another nest of wires up front so I need to figure out where the green needs to go now.

20140712_160126_zpsc2cd93ef.jpg

20140712_160119_zps1b7c1bd9.jpg

My question is can the green wire just be grounded to the frame or does it have to be connected to the other components before grounding to a common ground..

On the coil, it shows the green wire tieing into the cdi and stator, but mine is just grounded to a bolt on the frame right besides it.

 

Had to step away from it as it was making my head hurt, thanks everyone for the help so far. Oh by the way, this is a DC system on one leg, and A/C on the other with just the headlight going thru a relay that came with the Harness.

Edited by RadRider77

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welll I would go with a full DC system wire the Ricky Stator for one 200watts to Trail Tech r/r let it turn off/on lights etc with motor. Rip out all the crap the OP did he did some crap. Run all your grounds to frame they dont all have to go to same place on frame! BTW Beer helps when you brain gets overloaded! Just sit back have beer a think about it! LOL it works for me!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welll I would go with a full DC system wire the Ricky Stator for one 200watts to Trail Tech r/r let it turn off/on lights etc with motor. Rip out all the crap the OP did he did some crap. Run all your grounds to frame they dont all have to go to same place on frame! BTW Beer helps when you brain gets overloaded! Just sit back have beer a think about it! LOL it works for me!

I was debating a single dc system but I thought the trail tech r/r would only handle 150 watt? Their site has no info on any kinda specs for the unit. If I ran the whole system DC would the handle bar switch handle all that power for the hi/low or should I put it thru a relay.

Tossing in some more marbles into the mix, I just purchased a Moose Racing Species headlight

414ZSnV6jfL._AA160_.jpg

So once that gets here I got to figure out how to wire that in.

Edited by RadRider77

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was debating a single dc system but I thought the trail tech r/r would only handle 150 watt? Their site has no info on any kinda specs for the unit. If I ran the whole system DC would the handle bar switch handle all that power for the hi/low or should I put it thru a relay.

Tossing in some more marbles into the mix, I just purchased a Moose Racing Species headlight

414ZSnV6jfL._AA160_.jpg

So once that gets here I got to figure out how to wire that in.

I talked to TT they said the R/R has been tested with a 250 watt stator no problems

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welll I would go with a full DC system wire the Ricky Stator for one 200watts to Trail Tech r/r let it turn off/on lights etc with motor. Rip out all the crap the OP did he did some crap. Run all your grounds to frame they dont all have to go to same place on frame! BTW Beer helps when you brain gets overloaded! Just sit back have beer a think about it! LOL it works for me!

Lol, sometimes I feel like I should pick up drinking while working on this thing. I did cut out all the OP's mess and the poor splices and made new connectors for the CDI

20140716_183924_zps599b4e59.jpg

 

So now I'm trying to figure out how to wire the rick stator into just one 200 channel.... all I've got on the harness is

20140716_184008_zps63fb57a1.jpg

And on the stator side Ive got this

20140716_184033_zpse4b67633.jpg

I know the brown and red go into the CDI box wires and the 2 pin attaches to its connectors... but I have a green and white set of wires with a male and female... what doesn't get hooked up if I just have 2 males to plug together (...why does wiring lingo sound soo wrong sometimes?)

20140716_184044_zpse7d8fc33.jpg

 

Thanks for all the help so far mastera210, I'm trying to take it step by step and hopefully avoid a fireball when I go to kick it over.

 

and look at a Antigravity 4 cell battery!

I looked, awesome little battery, but at $100 I'm gonna pass for right now. just gona use the tiny 1.3 from the kit untill it dies and then ill upgrade and make a bracket for it somewhere.

 

One thing the CDI for motor is its own system! has its own coil on stator. then you have the coils on stator for your lights etc.

Yeah, at least the bike will run even if my turn signals will operate my brakes or just no lighting working at all after my attempt at wiring.

 

Want to figure out my system? A XR650L converted to run a XR600R ricky stator 250 watt stator, And have a 24v starting system! 

wtf? and I thought I had a frankenstein bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×