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xr200 High idle when off choke

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Hey guys, I have a new to me 2003 Honda XR200R I bought yesterday.  It was having some idle issues but had plenty of power and operated great when moving; it'd just die or get close to it at idle.

 

Today I took the carb apart and cleaned it all out, there was some gummy stuff in the bowl and the jet had some stuff on it.  Cleaned it all out; put the carb back together and on the bike.

 

It fired right up.  Now, if I take the choke off it idles ridiculously high.  I tried adjusting the screw on the bottom to 1 1/2 turns out as I read in another post..I then messed with the idle screw on the right..nada.  Zero change.  Any help would be appreciated as this is my first dirt bike.

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 I once had a similar problem. turns out I put the slide in backwards. make sure the beveled notch on the slide is facing the air filter, not the exhaust.

Sorry, this is probably the 3rd or so time I've taken a carb down that wasn't for a lawn mower, lol.

 

The slide you're talking to is the piston looking thing with a needle that goes into the top of the carb?  I'll double check it when it stops raining here.

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Firstly, if your jets had crud in them, the fuel screw passage most likely does too. So many people neglect it, but the engine isn't going to run/idle right if its dirty. Did you actually pull the jets and clean them out?

Your current problem suggests an air leak. Be sure the o ring between the intake manifold and head is in good shape. Be sure you have no air leaks between the carb and its front and rear boots.

Edited by Trailryder42

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OK, I took the carb back apart and you were right.  I had neglected a lot.  So I cleaned everything I could and put it back together.  Went ahead and adjusted the idle screw and the bottom screw and there were no changes; well, if I turned the idle screw all the way in it'd sputter.  otherwise it'd run super rich while choked and dangerously high revs without choke.

 

i went over the little intake manifold as best I could, nothing there.  On the airbox connection tube there is a big crack though.  That was there to begin with so I assumed it wouldn't cause a problem.  I have the tube on order and it should be in by next week.  Do you think that would cause the problem?  If so why is it a problem now and not before I cleaned the carb?

 

Anything else I should try to do?  Thanks for the help.

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was your slide in right? while waiting for the new boot I would silicone caulk the crack in the old one and see if it helps

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If the crack in the air boot is big enough to pull air thru it, yes it will cause a problem.

It sounds to me like you're adjusting the idle speed and fuel screws in a haphazzard manner.

Need to be sure of how the idle speed screw works. Does it meter a fuel/air passage for idle speed or does it mechanically act on the slide itself? Knowing that will help determine which way on the screw raises idle and which lowers idle. Sounds like you are turning the screw in with expectation of it lowering idle.

That "bottom screw" you refer to is the fuel screw. It meters fuel for the pilot system. IN is leaner, OUT is richer. Set it at 2 turns out from lightly seated and leave it alone until you get the air box boot replaced and idle speed figured out.

Did you check/set the float height while you had it apart?

Did you account for all the parts of the fuel screw (spring, washer, o ring) when you had it out and put them back together in the proper order?

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=131919&section=2495115&year=2002&make=Honda&category=Motorcycles&dc=5924&name=CARBURETOR

Edited by Trailryder42

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Figured this out finally, but have a parts related question now.

 

The slide was in correctly, BUT, the guide for it is falling apart.  So it wouldn't allow the bike to go to a throttle closed position.  I took the carb off the bike and inserted it and saw the bind.  It's a small little plastic guide on the opposite of the idle screw.  I touched it with my finger and a small portion broke off.  This likely happened when I inserted it wrong at some point, regardless the plastic is very brittle.  Do they sell this as a replacement part?  It functions fine now, but the top half is missing from the guide...a millimeter more and it could stick at WOT.  

 

Any locale on this part?  It looks like I'd have to drill it out to replace it as there's just a small white plug on the outside of the carb where it's located.

 

Idle screw in increases idle; I turned the air mixture to 2.25 from firm as I've read on several other forums for this bike.

 

Thank you all for the help.

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Yeah I couldnt find it anywhere either.

Looking at carbs now on ebay. Some people have had success with the generic carbs on ebay, others have had nothing but trouble. Whats your take there?

Expensive lesson.

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I went ahead and installed the carb and messed with the throttle some so I could ride it while I look for another carb.

 

It fired right up 3rd or so kick.  Adjusted idle, and it's perfect.  When I take off it hesitates a little, does great at probably 1/3-1/2 throttle on up..  This would be helped by adjusting the fuel screw right?  Start by maybe turning it in a little since its probably running a little rich?

 

Thanks again for the help.

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This would be helped by adjusting the fuel screw right?  Start by maybe turning it in a little since its probably running a little rich?

 

Thanks again for the help.

You need to learn to fine tune the screw by feel and listening to the engine idle, instead of guessing.

Set the engine idle to a speed somewhere around normal, that, to your ear, any subtle variations in you can detect. Your current 2.25 turns out is close enough to start from, so start turning it in (leaner)1/4 turn at a time, and listen for a drop in idle speed. Give the engine several seconds between adjustments to catch up to each new setting before determining if it made a difference or not.

When Idle speed slows, that tells you you're getting too lean. If you come back out from there to a point where the idle speed picks up again, that's near best idle "on the lean side". You want best idle on the rich side, so keep coming out with it(richer). The idle speed will pass thru a transition where it goes from a steady idle to dropping again as you get too rich. Turn it back in til the idle picks back up again. May want to do only 1/8 turns from here. Try to find the best/highest idle and off idle throttle response within a narrow little window between too rich and getting back into the lean side.

Keep track of how many turns out you are.

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