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2009 crf450x


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Way more info needed

tuning: pipe airbox current jetting etc

 

It sound like a corroded pilot jet

Pull, it, clear the passage above with spray solvent and stiff fishing line, and put in a NEW pilot jet

the air box has been cut , all smog removed and blocked off. fmf tipowercore4 slip on exhaust , carb  is completely clean , im using a 48 pilot which is a new jet ,  158 main jet , i have an adjustable needle set on the 4th position from the top, quickshot3 as well. im using a r&d fuel screw as well. when itry to start it sometimes it popps from the exhaust , .. when im coasting it surges. i was trying to do a wheelie and it would backfire on me as well..

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What year, how many hours, have you ever serviced you cam chain

 

You make no mention of the fuel screw adjustment...?

 

proper jetting:

 

160 main

45 pilot

NCVS needle on 3rd clip

50 LEAK jet

 

If you are 2007 or earlier, remove the quickshot and install a Tokyo mods pump linkage spring and a 2008 crf450r accelerator pump upgrade kit

 

The QS is junk.

 

if you don't have a R&D remote fuel screw, you need one for properly adjusting the fuel screw (every time the weather changes)

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This is the standard upgrade list:

 

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This is the standard upgrade list:

 

 

i have trfyed everything you have said.. the 45 pilot seems to not run right , hard time starting and popping all over the place thats why i went with a 48 pilot.. would it make a difference if its not a oem kehin jet?

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i have trfyed everything you have said.. the 45 pilot seems to not run right , hard time starting and popping all over the place thats why i went with a 48 pilot.. would it make a difference if its not a oem kehin jet?

Yes it would

So you have pulled out the hot start, and verified the cavity has no corrosion, and the oring (if yours has that kind of plunger) is good ?

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What I did today helped but I Got a different issue. I put the needle in the 3rd clip from top middle...158 main 48 pilot ... When it's cold runs ok as it warms up it feels like it's running a bit rich. When I snap the throttle or even when I'm rolling in gear to take off it kinda chokes like the plug can't burn off the rich mixture... Help!!

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The ap is working perfectly... It starts and runs when I ride it for about 10min it starts to run rich ... When I tried the 45 it was toooooo lean. It was very hard to start.. I have the file screw at 1 1/2 out

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I was thinking to raise the clip to 2nd from the top .. Also try a 152 main and see what happens.. Or is the rich part coming from the pilot jet? I want to be able to start the bike without the choke

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You don't want to be able to start the bike without the choke, if it needs the choke.

You don't want the bike to have different *(wrong)* jetting when hot, but 'right' jetting when cold, cause you don't ride cold.

ALL X's are very cold blooded, and warm up very slowly.

If you insist on using a 48, you will never have good off-idle throttle response.

You can try the 'pump the throttle 3 time ' method instead of the choke, but then usually you will have to sit there and blip it until it's warm.

 

I have the pump it 4 times, use the choke, and gap the hot start to keep it running for the first 2 min, or it will die....or blip the throttle.

 

I could put in a leaner power jet (choke circuit) but I am used to doing it this way.

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im going to try the 45 pilot in a few min. do you think it will run much better as it warms up? i was doing alot of thinking and research  im assuming the 48 pilot is ruinig alot of my performance and poor idle. what do you think?

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It runs much better I don't know if this is normal but when I ride and then stop I rev up the motor I hear it kinda making a watery noise I snap the throttle once more it goes away. Do u think it's running a bit rich still? Idles perfect runs nice just when I snap the throttle I hear it.. I have a power core 4 titanium pipe

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So, there is a very specific way of setting the fuel screw.

You must start with the lowest possible idle with one turn out on the fuel screw

Then you turn the fuel screw to raise the idle. 

If the idle goes too high, you drop with with the idle screw, and go back to the fuel screw and raise the idle some more.

You keep doing this until the last fuel screw turn puts the idle at 1850-1950 rpm.

 

If you start with the idle normal to begin with, you will have to over compensate the leanness by turning the fuel screw out even farther (than 105-2 turns)

 

THEN, you adjust the fuel screw the fastest falling idle after a full quick blip of the throttle .The turns will be 1/8 increments to find the spot where the idle is clean and the drop is fast.

 

After all this, you can then determine if the pilot is the correct size; less than one turn means pilot is too small, and more than two turns means the pilot is two small.

 

This is assuming the main jet is not too big, and  the needle is not too rich, to begin with.

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