Jump to content

YZ250F EFI Mapping Database

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for mapping that might work for woods/H.S./enduro ?

 

Please share your maps and how it affected performance.

 

2014 YZ250F SUGGESTED BASELINE SETTINGS

 

2014_yz250f_PowerTunerChar.gif

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are you using?

Please post your maps

 

Found this Woods Map from other TT user getting 60 miles per tank

 

FI

+4 +4 -3

+4 +4 -4

-3 -4 -4

 

IGN

-3 -3 -3

-3 -3  0

-3 -3 -3

2014 YZ250F Woods Map.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are you using?

Please post your maps

 

Found this Woods Map from other TT user getting 60 miles per tank

 

FI

+4 +4 -3

+4 +4 -4

-3 -4 -4

 

IGN

-3 -3 -3

-3 -3  0

-3 -3 -3

 

 

Wow.  That's a crazy map.  I thought it was bad to have more than a 3 point swing in adjacent cells?  

 

I've done a fair amount of testing by building on the gytr website maps.  I saved all the maps, test data and results in a spreadsheet.  I'll post some info shortly.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If someone wants to see the rest of the spreadsheet, PM me.  This is the best result I achieved for more overall power and better throttle response.  This was carefully developed making one change at a time while building on the GYTR website maps.  

 

The bike has a Q-4 Hex slip-on with the spark arrestor screen installed.  

 

Map 8           Starting point: Yamaha gytr website mid-hit map

MOD 3    

 

FI          

-2 1 2  

-3 -2 1

-2 -3 -2

 

IGN    

2 1 0

3 2 0

2 2 0

 

Notes: The better version of the two maps (mod1 and mod 2) are merged into the gytr top end power map and the middle is blended to minimize point swings in adjacent cells.  May benefit from refinement of WOT settings.                  

 

Ride conditions:   Colorado mountain singletrack, 8000'-12,000', and Moab, open sand/rock ledges (4000-6000')    

 

Feedback: Improved power across range, good stall resistance, strong mid and top end over rev.    

Edited by hrpufinstuff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting. I'm currently using "Mid RPM Quick Rev" Yamaha map. I'm interested in what you've come up with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting. I'm currently using "Mid RPM Quick Rev" Yamaha map. I'm interested in what you've come up with.

The mid rpm quick rev map was the start of the map above.  It's a pretty good start, but the map above is a little better IMO.  I think there are still some areas where it can be smoothed out.  If I can improve it, I'll share that info.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's cool hrp, but won't what works for you at elevation and with that q4 muffler be a totally different story for those of us near sea level and with stock or performance exhausts??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's cool hrp, but won't what works for you at elevation and with that q4 muffler be a totally different story for those of us near sea level and with stock or performance exhausts??

You're probably right.  I think your exhaust has more effect than the altitude though.  I've been asking the same question and haven't gotten a good answer yet.  I researched it and came up with the theory below:

 

The efi system we have is an open system.  Meaning that there is an intake oxygen sensor, but no exhaust sensor.  So it knows how much oxygen is coming in, but it doesn't know how much is left after combustion.  The ECU should be adjusting for the amount of oxygen in the intake air and then setting a baseline for how rich/lean the efi will be at your current alt/temp.  So a low elevation 0,0,0 stock map will be more rich than a high elevation stock map.  Our map tweaks should be deviations from the current baseline set by the ecu.  It seems like deviations from our respective baselines should have similar results provided we have similar exhaust systems.  

 

If I'm running a q-4 with a spark arrestor and someone else is running a dB Dawg, or PMB quiet insert, it's possible that the net effect is similar and similar maps will work.  This is pretty geeked out stuff, but a bigger geek than me may say that resonance and flow of a compressible gas (air) will behave differently in different exhausts at different air densities.  But I'm gonna stick with the close enough rule.  

 

I hope someone can confirm or bust this theory.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's cool hrp, but won't what works for you at elevation and with that q4 muffler be a totally different story for those of us near sea level and with stock or performance exhausts??

If you're using a really high flow, efficient exhaust, you could try going one click more rich across the board on the FI and see how that works for you.  You would be adjusting for the exhaust air flow, not for elevation.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I am running stock exhaust with pmb end cap ...(and just leave screen in)....been running stock map so far but am curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made a small improvement yesterday.  I think that during quick throttle blips at high rpms I was getting a mild pop.  It was barely noticeable and I think this fixed it. It seemed like a dip in the power curve as well.  This smoothed out the overall power curve.   

 

Map 8           Starting point: Yamaha gytr website mid-hit map

MOD 4    

 

FI          

-2 1 2  

-3 -2 1

-2 -3 -1 (instead of -2)

 

IGN    

2 1 0

3 2 0

2 2 0

 

This was tested on a fast sandy trail in Moab, UT.  The trail has a few technical rocky obstacles but mostly flowy and fast with sections of WOT sand.  

 

I'd love to have more input on this map at another elevation Grunk.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another data point for performance exhaust systems:

 

I was riding some fast sand/whoops and WOT so I tried removing the spark arrestor on my Q-4 and found that it was running lean.  You needed to ride it like a 125 using 2nd gear in all the tighter turns.  So I bumped the FI up one click across the board and it worked very well.  It allowed me to pull all of the turns in 3rd instead of 2nd.  I didn't spend any time tweaking the settings but the initial power was good, broad, and didn't have any flat spots.  Map below.  

 

FI          

-1 2 3  

-2 -1 2

-1 -2 0

 

IGN    

2 1 0

3 2 0

2 2 0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the process of testing some maps on a ported but other wise stock yz. It has a ported head and vertex piston. Stock comp with decked cyl. It runs best with stock fuel, all 0, and plus 2 timing. I'll be testing again weds night. I'll post the final map when done

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the same map listed above as Map 8, mod-4.  I tested it on some very gnarly mountain singletrack and it was excellent at resisting stalling and lugging.  I stalled a few times and it started fairly easily, even when very hot.  I was riding with a couple of ktm 300 two strokes and they both boiled over while I was able to ride on.  The yz chugged along like a tractor up some 3000 foot climbs.  The ride was 95 miles including some of the roughest terrain in Colorado.  If anyone has heard of Rough Canyon, Little Bear, and Ryman Creek, in the SW corner of the state, they were the trails we rode.  Even one of my buddies commented that usually the guy with the stock motocross bike is the one suffering on that type of ride.  Not so that day.  I should be able to show some gopro footage soon.  

 

I do think the bike could use a heavier duty clutch.  It faded quite a bit near the tops of the climbs.  I was abusing the heck out of it.   Otherwise the bike was flawless.  Here's the map again.  I was riding with a Q4 hex with the spark arrestor in.        

 

FI          

-2 1 2  

-3 -2 1

-2 -3 -1

 

IGN    

2 1 0

3 2 0

2 2 0

Edited by hrpufinstuff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rode mine in an enduro on the weekend Hr,first really tight muddy race and have to agree the clutch fades when abused. I also made a massive mistake and fitted a 14 front bad bad bad move it was way too tall. Does the tuner make a really huge difference to the power ?? Mine is still running the stock map and stalled a little to easy and lacked grunt. It does rev well though.

 

Cheers 

Marty 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rode mine in an enduro on the weekend Hr,first really tight muddy race and have to agree the clutch fades when abused. I also made a massive mistake and fitted a 14 front bad bad bad move it was way too tall. Does the tuner make a really huge difference to the power ?? Mine is still running the stock map and stalled a little to easy and lacked grunt. It does rev well though.

 

Cheers 

Marty 

 

I would say yes, the tuner makes a huge difference, especially if you need better low end and throttle response.  It may allow you to run a gear taller.  i thought the stock mapping was fairly flat in the low rpms until you got up into the mid-range.  The map above makes the power more instant-abrupt off idle, but it's still a 250f so it's pretty easy to control.    

 

What exhaust are you running?   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

std pipe thinking of getting a tuner if it makes that much difference, I like the sound of what you have done. . Still playing with suspension for off road atm as well. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It would be ideal to borrow or rent one.  Maybe for a fee a dealer would let you map your bike.  It takes about one minute to do.  

 

The mapper costs almost as much as a silencer and makes about the same difference as a performance exhaust.  Except you can move the power around.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been in contact with a major tuner and spoke with him about tuning options. I borrowed a tuner to play with tunes as well and for mx I found the stock setting pretty dang good.

This is what I got from my tuner...any direction/any thing you do other then stock on the tuner looses power anywhere. Sure you can alter feel, like hurt power in the middle to gain a better feeling top, but you're not helping power. Also these bikes are on the verge of detonation stock, so don't add timing.

I have no real complaints about the stock delivery, it's crisp and if I crave more bottom or top, I'll add a cam or port it.

Just thought I'd add this for those wondering about the tuner, that NO, in my opinion spend your money elsewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeh I want more bottom still going to try and borrow a tuner and see how I go. I'm happy to sacrifice top for bottom.

 

MM 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×