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Oil Migration

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Hey Guys

well i have a oil migration problem. All my oil is going from crank side to my clutch side. From what I've been reading this means i have to replace the right side crank seal. I just need some advice on how to get in on the clutch side to this seal and if i need to buy any bearings or seals. (other than the leaky one) Im fairly new to this so please bare with me on this one

Thanks!

Tyson

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yes sounds like your right crank seal, or possibly even your counter balancer seal.

 

To get to the right crank seal, you need to drain your coolant, pull the right side case off, next pull the whole clutch assembly off,  then take off the primary drive gear that bolts into the crank shaft. 

 

Once you get all that off remove the old crank seal and install the new seal, Pay close attention to which direction the seal goes in, I made the mistake of installing the seal wrong and didn't know, then 4 hours later I had to pull it apart to do the same thing.  

 

once its installed then starting installing the parts in the reverse order that you took them off.  One tool that will make your life easier when torquing everything down is a Motion pro gear jammer they work awesome.  I have heard of people using pennys to jam the gears also, But I have never tried it. 

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yes sounds like your right crank seal, or possibly even your counter balancer seal.

To get to the right crank seal, you need to drain your coolant, pull the right side case off, next pull the whole clutch assembly off, then take off the primary drive gear that bolts into the crank shaft.

Once you get all that off remove the old crank seal and install the new seal, Pay close attention to which direction the seal goes in, I made the mistake of installing the seal wrong and didn't know, then 4 hours later I had to pull it apart to do the same thing.

once its installed then starting installing the parts in the reverse order that you took them off. One tool that will make your life easier when torquing everything down is a Motion pro gear jammer they work awesome. I have heard of people using pennys to jam the gears also, But I have never tried it.

Thanks, one question, why drain the coolant? And I should probably just order both seals eh? Edited by motocrossman54

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you have to drain your coolant, because you are taking the whole right side case off.   you CANNOT replace the crank seal buy just taking the clutch over off.  

 

If I was doing it, I would order both seal and just do them at the same time.   To replace the balencer seal, you will have to take off the left side case also, so you can pull the counter balance shaft out. 

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you have to drain your coolant, because you are taking the whole right side case off. you CANNOT replace the crank seal buy just taking the clutch over off.

If I was doing it, I would order both seal and just do them at the same time. To replace the balencer seal, you will have to take off the left side case also, so you can pull the counter balance shaft out.

Thanks a bunch for everything man. This is exactly what I needed!

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My bike just decided migrate all the engine oil into the trans last night. Good timing for this thread :) hahah

Edited by D4N63R

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So I changed my seal, put everything together and did a short test just idling. Shut off the bike, go to pull dip stick and the thing nearly shot out at me. I had just finished putting my carb back on and while doing so I must have messed up the crank case vent. It wasn't doing it's job and all the pressure decided to go to the trans. Ha

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There are vent hoses for the trans and engine side, so there's no way for pressure to build up in those cavities unless a hose is blocked with foreign matter, pinched or purposely plugged in error.

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There are vent hoses for the trans and engine side, so there's no way for pressure to build up in those cavities unless a hose is blocked with foreign matter, pinched or purposely plugged in error.

Sorry. I took the fast way with making my post.

The carb install was right before I had my migration problem. While putting the carb and sub frame back on I wasn't paying attention to the vent line off the valve cover. After I was done bolting everything together I realized I had forgot to re route the tube back down to it's holder before putting the sub frame on so I decided to just strong arm it back into place.

After all that was done I fired up the bike on the stand and was resetting the idle and fuel screw when around ten minutes later my trans vent puked oil all over the floor.

My bike didn't have a slow migration. It had excessive crank case pressure build up as a result of the vent being kinked and letting the pressure out into the transmission through the crank seal. Hahaha

She's all fixed up now though.

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