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2004 rm 250 crank/shifting

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So today while I was riding I noticed my bike wasn't shifting right, so I pulled off right away. I packed up, brought my bike home and washed it and pulled it apart, I thought the 2 screws behind the clutch could be loose but that wasn't it. All I could notice that was wrong is there is a little piece that is broken but I can't tell what it is or what it does, the piece that is broken is what I'm pointing at in the picture. if anyone can help i would greatly appreciate it!! ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401575104.651829.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401575122.586195.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401575132.318485.jpg

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That the detent arm and spring. More concerned about all the shavings on the clutch push rod. Did the clutch push rod bearing go??

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The shavings from the push rod are from what were on the thread, it was some type of lock tight I believe. Is the arm supposed to go all the way through? It's loose and broken I believe

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Push rod bearing is behind inner hub-goes on the end of the push rod. It takes the load off the push rod when you pull cltuch lever in. Best to see a parts diagram a everything will make sense and it will be easy to see what may be missing,worn or broken when you have pics to reference. There were some good pics on Google images. YouTube may have a video also. I haven't been inside my trans since this winter,so its hard for me to say what is wrong.

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Glad you found it. I'd replace it and run through the gears to make sure all is OK.

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That bolt is meant to be installed with medium strength loctite when the engine is assembled. This could mean the broken part will still be held in the threads of the casing with the loctite compound making it's removal more difficult.

Therefore attempting to drill a hole and use an easy out to remove the broken piece may not be ideal.

As heat helps release loctite, if you or a skilled contact or friend have access to a small mig or tig welder the broken steel threaded section could be slowly and carefully built up with weld so that it creates a stump that can be grabbed with vice grips and then unscrewed. It may take a couple of attempts to do this as the initial weld may not have enough penetration to take the torque required to unscrew the broken bit.

NB. I stress that the weld should only be done in very short split second pulses so it does not damage the surrounding alloy of the casing. The pulses will put heat into the area and release the loctite compound.

Edited by rmxdan

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I gave already gotten the broken part out of the case, I drilled and used the EZ out and it wasn't to bad. Thanks for the advice though!

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