Help please

[verkstra]

Hey guys so I am recently knew to dirtbiking.

I bought a 2002 yz 125  a few weeks ago.

 

Today I decide to change my oil. Which was very black.  When I tried to take the drain plug off I could get it with a wrench or ratchet so I used my torque gun. When I went to put the plug back in a noticed that the plug kept spining and wouldn't tighten. I pulled out again and the female end crack in half. Then the other half fell right off. I don't really have any friends who are into this, I was hoping someone can tell me how Fed I am. I would really like to know what parts I am going to have to replace and how expensive it will be. It looks like I will be replacing the whole oil tank or tranny or whatever holds the oil. As I mentioned I am new to this and I just want to get back out and go for a ride. 

[Beau 88]

I can't really tell what is what in that pic. If you have the piece i would clean it really good inside and out and weld it back in place . Then rethread the hole , you can use a helicoil but there are better thread solutions to choose from i just can't remember the name , anyone ? 

[Cynictis]

Ouch- looks like a textbook case of a stripped drainplug. I've been there, and it SUCKS. I replaced the entire pan just to be safe, but there ARE options:

 

You said the threads cracked? did a piece break away? More than likely, you will have to drop out your oil pan to be serviced, but you might can use JB Weld to repair the cracks and try to rethread it using a tap. Problem is, it will be vulnerable to failure again. The best bet is to remove and have it welded and retapped by a professional.

 

Another option is to use a Helicoil / Timesert kit, which places an insert inside. If you have a cracked piece that fell off, however, you'll need to have that repaired. If you're not very handy with this, again, i would get an experienced machinist to take a look and see if they can weld it back and recut the threads, or just look at how much a replacement pan is- issue though is that it could be machine-matched, so any aftermarket pieces would need to be mated anyways.

 

A future warning: you have to be SUPER careful with these, as the threads have a tendency to strip- so no powered tools, just straight elbow grease. Always ensure the area is clean, and keep any gunk from building up around the outside that can glue it on. When putting it back on, always use a torque wrench, and go super-easy as to not screw the threading. 

 

Sorry that it happened, but if it's any consolation, this is a common failure- which means there are solutions available. 

[verkstra]

I cleaned up the oil off it and took another picture. 

[verkstra]

I can't really tell what is what in that pic. If you have the piece i would clean it really good inside and out and weld it back in place . Then rethread the hole , you can use a helicoil but there are better thread solutions to choose from i just can't remember the name , anyone ? 

I cleaned up the oil and posted another picture from another angle.

[Fatt_Tones]

I can't really tell what is what in that pic. If you have the piece i would clean it really good inside and out and weld it back in place . Then rethread the hole , you can use a helicoil but there are better thread solutions to choose from i just can't remember the name , anyone ?

Beau it might be Time-Sert you are thinking of...

Ouch- looks like a textbook case of a stripped drainplug. I've been there, and it SUCKS. I replaced the entire pan just to be safe, but there ARE options:

You said the threads cracked? did a piece break away? More than likely, you will have to drop out your oil pan to be serviced, but you might can use JB Weld to repair the cracks and try to rethread it using a tap. Problem is, it will be vulnerable to failure again. The best bet is to remove and have it welded and retapped by a professional.

Another option is to use a Helicoil / Timesert kit, which places an insert inside. If you have a cracked piece that fell off, however, you'll need to have that repaired. If you're not very handy with this, again, i would get an experienced machinist to take a look and see if they can weld it back and recut the threads, or just look at how much a replacement pan is- issue though is that it could be machine-matched, so any aftermarket pieces would need to be mated anyways.

A future warning: you have to be SUPER careful with these, as the threads have a tendency to strip- so no powered tools, just straight elbow grease. Always ensure the area is clean, and keep any gunk from building up around the outside that can glue it on. When putting it back on, always use a torque wrench, and go super-easy as to not screw the threading.

Sorry that it happened, but if it's any consolation, this is a common failure- which means there are solutions available.

Dude what are you talking about? There is no oil pan on a yz-125.

OP The only "proper" fix is to replace the case half, and since they are machined pairs it is usually advised to replace both halves. With that option you are getting into more $$ than the bike is worth.

Welding on cast aluminum that is oil contaminated is extremely difficult if not next to impossible. Normally the case halves would have to be heated to a very high temperature to sweat out the impurities. However to do this right it involves splitting the cases.

DO NOT even consider JB weld for this application if you value your bike. Not sure if you want to be miles out and lose your oil all of a sudden....

Beau's and Cynictis' suggestions of helicoil, etc are good except that from your picture it appears the side of the hole is completely broken away....so there's no meat left there to work with...

One option that I did when this happened to me was I had a local guy Tig weld a permanent plug into the hole which permanently closed the hole. I would then remove the outer clutch cover and lay the bike over to drain the oil. This repair involves heating the cases essentially to the melting temp of aluminum in one spot, which makes the cases prone to warpage. The gearbox locked up on the bike ten hours later. Another option is to TIG the hole closed then re-drill and tap it for a new plug. This work would be $100-150...

So it comes down to how much you want to put into the bike....but the proper fix is to replace the case halves...

Edited June 2, 2014 by Fattonz

[verkstra]

Ouch- looks like a textbook case of a stripped drainplug. I've been there, and it SUCKS. I replaced the entire pan just to be safe, but there ARE options:

 

You said the threads cracked? did a piece break away? More than likely, you will have to drop out your oil pan to be serviced, but you might can use JB Weld to repair the cracks and try to rethread it using a tap. Problem is, it will be vulnerable to failure again. The best bet is to remove and have it welded and retapped by a professional.

 

Another option is to use a Helicoil / Timesert kit, which places an insert inside. If you have a cracked piece that fell off, however, you'll need to have that repaired. If you're not very handy with this, again, i would get an experienced machinist to take a look and see if they can weld it back and recut the threads, or just look at how much a replacement pan is- issue though is that it could be machine-matched, so any aftermarket pieces would need to be mated anyways.

 

A future warning: you have to be SUPER careful with these, as the threads have a tendency to strip- so no powered tools, just straight elbow grease. Always ensure the area is clean, and keep any gunk from building up around the outside that can glue it on. When putting it back on, always use a torque wrench, and go super-easy as to not screw the threading. 

 

Sorry that it happened, but if it's any consolation, this is a common failure- which means there are solutions available. 

Thanks for you help! Do you have any idea of home much it would cost for the average shop to replace my oil pan? Also do recommend using a Helicoil/timesert kit? I added another picture from another angle shows the damage alittle better. 

[Beau 88]

Beau it might be Time-Sert you are thinking of...

Dude what are you talking about? There is no oil pan on a yz-125.

OP The only "proper" fix is to replace the case half, and since they are machined pairs it is usually advised to replace both halves. With that option you are getting into more $$ than the bike is worth.

Welding on cast aluminum that is oil contaminated is extremely difficult if not next to impossible. Normally the case halves would have to be heated to a very high temperature to sweat out the impurities. However to do this right it involves splitting the cases.

DO NOT even consider JB weld for this application if you value your bike. Not sure if you want to be miles out and lose your oil all of a sudden....

Beau's suggestions of helicoil, etc are good except that from your picture it appears the side of the hole is completely broken away....so there's no meat left there to work with...

One option that I did when this happened to me was I had a local guy Tig weld a permanent plug into the hole which permanently closes the hole. I would then remove the outer clutch cover and lay the bike over to drain the oil. This involves heating the cases essentially to the melting temp of aluminum in one spot, which makes the cases prone to warpage. The gearbox locked up on my bike ten hours later. Another option is to TIG the hole closed then re-drill and tap it for a new plug. This work would be $100-150...

So it comes down to how much you want to put into the bike....but the proper fix is to replace the case halves...

Thank you time -sert 

[Cynictis]

Thanks for you help! Do you have any idea of home much it would cost for the average shop to replace my oil pan? Also do recommend using a Helicoil/timesert kit? I added another picture from another angle shows the damage alittle better. 

 

Actually i may be mistaken, as Fattonz said. There's no oil pan- i meant to say crankcase. It's going to run north of around 300+ dollars to have it repaired, but less if you can find someone / remove the case yourself. It's one of those things you have to shop around on, sadly. Clean up the area and snap a better picture so we can get a better assessment of how damaged it is. He's also right- a Timesert / Helicoil won't work if a piece is missing, so you'd first have to repair that area to be flush again, and essentially rebuild the hole. 

 

Another agreeance is to not use JB (I know i know, i suggested it, but with the warning of failure, mind you) - it's a good bandaid, but not something you'd want to set and forget. 

[verkstra]

Beau it might be Time-Sert you are thinking of...

Dude what are you talking about? There is no oil pan on a yz-125.

OP The only "proper" fix is to replace the case half, and since they are machined pairs it is usually advised to replace both halves. With that option you are getting into more $$ than the bike is worth.

Welding on cast aluminum that is oil contaminated is extremely difficult if not next to impossible. Normally the case halves would have to be heated to a very high temperature to sweat out the impurities. However to do this right it involves splitting the cases.

DO NOT even consider JB weld for this application if you value your bike. Not sure if you want to be miles out and lose your oil all of a sudden....

Beau's and Cynictis' suggestions of helicoil, etc are good except that from your picture it appears the side of the hole is completely broken away....so there's no meat left there to work with...

One option that I did when this happened to me was I had a local guy Tig weld a permanent plug into the hole which permanently closes the hole. I would then remove the outer clutch cover and lay the bike over to drain the oil. This involves heating the cases essentially to the melting temp of aluminum in one spot, which makes the cases prone to warpage. The gearbox locked up on my bike ten hours later. Another option is to TIG the hole closed then re-drill and tap it for a new plug. This work would be $100-150...

So it comes down to how much you want to put into the bike....but the proper fix is to replace the case halves...

It sounds like my best option is the close the hole and tap a new plug.... Now if I can't go this route I would have to replace the case halfs? Do you have any idea how much that could run me? Thanks.

[Honda_Power]

JB weld dat ish!!  OR if you want, chew a piece of bubble gum, and plug it up and wait for it to dry.... it'll seal tight and hard as a rock.

 

I recommend 'Juicy Fruit' if going with option #2.

Edited June 1, 2014 by Honda_Power

[Cynictis]

JB weld dat ish!!  OR if you want, chew a piece of bubble gum, and plug it up and wait for it to dry.... it'll seal tight and hard as a rock.

 

I recommend 'Juicy Fruit' if going with option #2.

 

[Fatt_Tones]

It sounds like my best option is the close the hole and tap a new plug.... Now if I can't go this route I would have to replace the case halfs? Do you have any idea how much that could run me? Thanks.

I think the case halves run in the ballpark of $140 each so close to $300 for the pair. There will also be additional parts cost because in doing the swap there are bearing, seals, and gaskets that will need replacing. Now, if you were to buy a manual and take on this work yourself, and assuming nothing else needs replacing....aka your crank is in spec, and also assuming there are no tools you need to purchase.....a realistic estimate is more like $500-600.

You can likely nearly double that cost if you're planning to hire a dealer. But there may be a decent guy in your area who can do it for cheaper.

Another option is to find a used complete bottom end and just swap top ends. Sometimes you can find those for under $300...

Good luck ?

[Honda_Power]

Dude.... it's not worth spending tons of money fixing it.  Just get it weld shut, done deal.

[Fatt_Tones]

Dude.... it's not worth spending tons of money fixing it.  Just get it weld shut, done deal.

 

 

Man, isn't this getting boring for you yet?  You're a real.......

 

[cabledog]

This exact thing happened to me. I like the idea of welding it shut and tapping a new hole for it. I wish I had thought of that when my threads broke off on one side. I however went the ghetto fix route, and it's been holding 2 years now, with one mishap over a log without a skid plate. I job welded my broken piece back on, then I added more job weld all around to kind of beef it up. I then used an expanding rubber plug in the hole. 1/2 inch is I believe the size I used, got them from napa years ago, but they don't sell them anymore. Has a lever you press down and it tightens the plug in the hole. You can find this plug online if you google marine rubber oil plug. I know it not the right way to address this issue, but it's worked for me. You definitely want to ride with a skid plate if you go this route. I did this ghetto mod to my 94 rm250 in 2012, raced about 5 hare scrambles and numerous trail ride outings since. My rubber plug got ripped out by a log knot once riding without a skid plate however and I had to redo it, but hey, I'm a dirt bike enthusiast with a limited budget, and I do what I gotta do to be able to enjoy this sport. You now have several options to work with any budget, good luck!

[SellYour4Stroke]

This exact thing happened to me. I like the idea of welding it shut and tapping a new hole for it. I wish I had thought of that when my threads broke off on one side. I however went the ghetto fix route, and it's been holding 2 years now, with one mishap over a log without a skid plate. I job welded my broken piece back on, then I added more job weld all around to kind of beef it up. I then used an expanding rubber plug in the hole. 1/2 inch is I believe the size I used, got them from napa years ago, but they don't sell them anymore. Has a lever you press down and it tightens the plug in the hole. You can find this plug online if you google marine rubber oil plug. I know it not the right way to address this issue, but it's worked for me. You definitely want to ride with a skid plate if you go this route. I did this ghetto mod to my 94 rm250 in 2012, raced about 5 hare scrambles and numerous trail ride outings since. My rubber plug got ripped out by a log knot once riding without a skid plate however and I had to redo it, but hey, I'm a dirt bike enthusiast with a limited budget, and I do what I gotta do to be able to enjoy this sport. You now have several options to work with any budget, good luck!?image.jpg?image.jpg

 

 

 

It's a tough gig if you don't have much meat to work with and no money.

These exist, too.  I'm not sayin it's a good idea but it's out there as an option and it won't ever fall out. Put a metal nut on it.