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Rear brake issue

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I have a 07 450r and the rear brakes were great last season but so far this season they won't grab, same rotor and pads as last year( ebc rotor and driven sintered pads) there is a mark on the outside 1/4" of rotor where it looks like it's stopping. It's bled out and has great feel just won't stop, caliper moves freely and pads and rotor are good other than the mark, I plan on swapping to a wave rotor and stainless line but I want to handle the rotor wear issue b4 I swap new parts on

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I have a 07 450r and the rear brakes were great last season but so far this season they won't grab, same rotor and pads as last year( ebc rotor and driven sintered pads) there is a mark on the outside 1/4" of rotor where it looks like it's stopping. It's bled out and has great feel just won't stop, caliper moves freely and pads and rotor are good other than the mark, I plan on swapping to a wave rotor and stainless line but I want to handle the rotor wear issue b4 I swap new parts on

Replace the pads as well. Have you replaced fluid? The stuff doesn't last forever... esp in this application. Once it heats up it is done. 

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I planned on changing the pads to braking pads when I install the new rotor, I flushed the system with maxima dot4 fluid in an attempt to get the stopping power back, I just don't wanna swap the new parts in if I have a different issue, the funny wear on the he rotor worries me

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If I was you I'd order a ten dollar set of tusk pads.. If the calipers working correctly whether your rotor is grooved or not it should grab. My buddy put a set last minute before we went riding a few weeks ago on a beat rotor and after the pads grooved which took about 20-30 minutes riding they worked fine. Either way if your rotors gone then I'd replace it with the tusk one also. And yeah that fluid def needs to be changed from time to time

Edited by Diggla117

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Rode this past weekend with a new set of pads, cleaned up the rotor with a scuf pad only to find it wasn't groved at all, bled out the old fluid with fresh dot4, when I was bleeding it out the fluid didn't shoot out like I figured it would, just kinda dribbled out. It slows down but not like it should, would a bad line cause this

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I have a good bleeder kit I just usually have better luck manually bleeding them, I'll try that tomorrow

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Yeah that'll make life easy and you'll have all the bubbles out and done in no time

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I'm also thinking of replacing the line and rebuilding the master cylinder just to be sure, it has never been touched since new

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Do it. A 7 year old bike is due. And it's super easy to rebuild

Edited by Diggla117

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i ride a ton.. chances are the master cyl needs a rebuild, but typically when that is needed there will be fluid coming out the bottom, leaking pas the plunger rubbers and the rubber dust cover. the other thing that eventually goes, is the rubber brake line hose at the fitting nearest the master cylinder..

The rotor is good. I have ran EBC rotors and pads for years.. dragging them non stop for periods of time in the woods. As already pointed out by others, you HAVE to bleed the fluid periodically.

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