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Does this sound ok?

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Hi all,

 

I'm not sure if my bike was making this sound when I first got it, but I'm fairly sure it wasn't because when I bought it I was specifically listening for any weird clicking, clacking, or any sounds of that nature.

 

I've had the bike for 2 or 3 weeks now and put like 300km on it, and I'm noticing this sound from the engine. I can even hear it when I'm going down the road at 90km/h with my helmet on and wind noise.

 

The bike seems to run OK other than needing a little bit to warm up, otherwise the engine bogs down and stalls when I blip the throttle, so I just wait for it to warm up before I head on my way so I don't stall coming up to a stop light or something when shifting down haha.

 

This is a video I just cut from my phone, sorry it's sideways, I thought I had my phone tilted the right way but I guess I didn't! www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZpZu7CIC4M

 

This is on a warm engine, after running for ~15-20 minutes.

 

I just did an oil and filter change yesterday with Rotella 15w40 (diesel oil as recommended by some other forum goers).

 

I'll probably be changing to Castrol 20w50 four stroke motorcycle oil in a couple of weeks. It was recommended I use this oil after purchasing the bike to help clean the internals.

 

Can you tell me if this sounds ok? My bike is a 91 XR250L

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It sounds like it needs a valve adjustment.  .003" for the intakes and .004" for the exhaust valves.  Diesel oils have a bit more detergent than other motor oils.  The 15w40 Rotella is the cleaning oil.  It's an excellent oil.  Keep an eye on the oil level.  Old bikes can burn a lot of oil.

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Yeah I meant to put that sentence with the Rotella oil, about cleaning the engine.

 

I don't have any feeler gauges so I'll have to pick some of those up. I might actually have some at work, though they're not for motorcycles. If they're the right size though then it doesn't matter?

 

Where can I pick some up? Does Canadian Tire have those sorts of things? They don't have to be specifically for motorcycles right, just the right thickness? Something like this should work just fine? http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3-in-leaf-feeler-gauge-0581246p.html#.U40sVPldWWM

 

 

Actually, the other problem I'm having is my turn signals are very delayed. It's worse when it's cool outside as opposed to warm.

 

I thought maybe it would be the controls on the handlebar but I took the switch apart and cleaned it all up with no change. Then I bought  a replacement blinker relay and replaced the one I had installed but that didn't help either. I broke out my multimeter and attached it to the leads on the blinker relay to see what kind of voltage they were getting.

 

When I flicked the blinker switch I saw a brief, low rise in voltage to approximately 4-5 volts. Then the blinker kicked in and it was showing approximately 9 volts, though the intermittent nature and the fact that I have an analog multimeter it may just not be enough time for the needle to go all the way up to 12 volts. Today was quite warm out so the delay was not much, maybe 2 seconds, but this morning when I rode the bike to work at 7:30 AM when it was only around 13 degrees © outside the delay was like 10 or more seconds.

 

Where should I start looking for this problem, or would it be easier for me to just buy 4 LED lights, resistors, and an electronic blinker relay switch to hopefully just avoid the problem?

Edited by TonesMagones

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my 400 definitely runs quieter on 20w50.

 

CT has a bent type feeler guage made for valves, they're supposed to be a bit easier to fit in. these ones

 

I'd suggest replacing the battery before you get too carried away with the blinker thing, there are probably some better options than the lead-acid type that it came with stock.

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my 400 definitely runs quieter on 20w50.

 

CT has a bent type feeler guage made for valves, they're supposed to be a bit easier to fit in. these ones

 

I'd suggest replacing the battery before you get too carried away with the blinker thing, there are probably some better options than the lead-acid type that it came with stock.

Despite the mad rush to Lithium and others by first adopters here and elsewhere, Lead Acid is STILL the battery of choice for starting vehicles.

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What about switching to LED turn signals and the appropriate electronic blinker relay (which I'm assuming just replaces the standard relay outright, in the same position and everything?) Would that solve the issue ya think?

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Also, is anyone able to point me in the right direction with this decompressor cable coming from the kickstarter?

 

After adjusting the valves and having loosened up the decompressor cable I can't seem to figure out how to adjust it to be in the right place. My Haynes manual says 1-2mm of free play.

 

Free play where though? In the little spring loaded doohicky? In the cable itself? I don't understand how to change it because apparently no matter which way I adjust the cable on that little bracket thing it doesn't seem to change a damned thing!

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And god damnit, I can still hear this sound after doing a valve adjustment. I used the proper shims and all that. .003 inches for intake .004 inches for exhaust. It took me FOREVER because I was trying to get it absolutely perfect. All of them had a drag on the shims when taking them between the adjustment screw and the valve thing. Not too tight, not too loose, they seemed just right to me but then again it's the first time I've done it.

 

New video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1bybYct23Y

 

Any help?

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Recheck the exhaust valve clearance on the clutch side, they can be tricky as the auto decomp can give you false readings, rotate the engine back & forth a few times. Also check the oil strainer in the Bango fitting at the bottom of the frame for blockage.

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As long as the Manule decomp is not to tight (riding) it's ok, loose is fine. Slowly kick the bike until you find TDC ( the hard spot) no hard spot? Too tight..

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I don't have a manual decompression lever or anything. It's just an automatic decompression from the kick starter I believe. A lot of people seem to say to just take it off but I don't really want to do that.

I'll check it again this afternoon

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The sound in amateur videos posted on TT are always deceiving.  Professional sound engineers go to great lengths to reproduce sound.  It might help if you held the camera/mic much further away or have someone film you riding around.  At this point, I'm tending to agree with Trailryder that it sounds fine.  

 

How loose were the valves?  

 

Also, it is better to have the valves too loose than too tight, especially the exhaust valves.  Exhaust valves that are too tight get burned.

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What about switching to LED turn signals and the appropriate electronic blinker relay (which I'm assuming just replaces the standard relay outright, in the same position and everything?) Would that solve the issue ya think?

maybe, I'd try replacing the battery first though, just to eliminate one potential issue. 

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The battery is brand new so I don't see that being the issue. :(

 

I adjusted the valves again to have a very slight drag on the feeler gauges and i can still here the clicky sound. I'm starting to wonder if it's all in my head that there is even an issue lol. I'm just going to take it to the shop next week and have the guy there listen to it and tell me what he thinks.

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Yeah so I measured the valve clearance again and adjusted it to grab the feeler gauges very lightly but now I think the ticking is even worse than before. I hate this thing I'm just going to take it to the shop.

 

My clutch is also slipping I just found out so now I have to deal with that too. The previous owner said the clutch was rebuilt in '06 and he didn't ride it hard (apparently) so I'm wondering if the cable just needs adjusting or if a spring in the clutch is loose or something, but I'm too afraid to ride the bike to test things out because of the god awful ticking sound.

 

It seems every time I adjusted the valves and opened it up again later to check them again the spacing was different. The first time I set them with moderate grab, then when I went to do it the second time there was much more space in there. Then I set them to grab quite a lot and when I opened it up the third time it seems like the spacing was again different. I don't F'ing get it!!!!!!!!

 

That and I can't figure out how to get the damn spark plug out. None of my long sockets seem to fit in the gap. Is it absolutely necessary to get the spark plug out to adjust it? I can turn the engine over just fine but it really doesn't seem like the | T mark is actually TDC when I'm turning the crank.

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You need the Honda plug socket for your bike.  Anything else is just a pain to use.  

 

Could your ticking be an exhaust leak?

 

Some aftermarket clutch plates die in a few hours.

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Make sure the engine is cold when adjusting valves or yes they will be different every time

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Yes I know the engine is supposed to be cold. It is &%$#@!ing cold every time.

Top dead center does not feel like top dead center with the T line lined up with that notch. When turning the crank by hand with the spark plug still in it feels like the point in between the two | | on the flywheel, not the T line. That is the point of most resistance. I'm wondering if it's not lined up properly somehow?

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Sounds like you need to get that spark plug out and then you can sure of tdc if they don't match up you may have other issues

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