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Is Rotella in a 520 OK?

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I really hate to get a oil thread started but there's just not a whole lot of beta info out there. I just picked a very low mile 2010 520 RR and have no experience with newer four strokes. I know the manual calls for two different oils for the upper and lower engine areas. I've been running the rotella synthetic in 2strokes and my honda 650L with no issues. I'm just thinking it would be nice to only have to buy one type of oil and be able to pick it up at any auto parts place. What do you guys think?

Again, sorry for a oil thread!

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That would be fine, I perfer synthetic. Rotella dyno is just ok oil based on my oil analysts while the synthetic is much much better. Key with any modern 4t motor is clean oil/air and valve adjustments.

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I really hate to get a oil thread started but there's just not a whole lot of beta info out there. I just picked a very low mile 2010 520 RR and have no experience with newer four strokes. I know the manual calls for two different oils for the upper and lower engine areas. I've been running the rotella synthetic in 2strokes and my honda 650L with no issues. I'm just thinking it would be nice to only have to buy one type of oil and be able to pick it up at any auto parts place. What do you guys think?

Again, sorry for a oil thread!

Welcome to the beta side of life. With proper care your bike will last a long time.

 

1.Quality "synthetic" oil in the proper weight recommended by the manufacturer, as you are not feeding a transmission or an air-cooled tractor.

2. There are different oil viscosities for the trans and engine for all models 2010 forward, recomended by the manufacturer.

3. while some here elect not to use a synthetic transmission oil, yet at the cost of transmission parts today for the modern dirtbike, I do!

If you do a search here you will find lots of topics on oils

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Thanks for the fast responses. I'm gonna check around locally to see who carries the recommended oil for the bike. Peace of mind is worth a lot to me. But, in a pinch if I have to run the synthetic rotella, it would be nice to know that I could.

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Catfish runs dino oil and is happy, he may come along soon and give you his take.

Edited by Mckay

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I'm guilty of running Rotella in all my bikes but one due to MA2 spec for their new CAT( amsoil in that one). My 520 gets Rotella T6 5-w40 engine/trans. If it can handle the heat from the turbo and 21/1 compression of my diesel the Beta will be a non issue. The other bikes get plain Rotella T. My Blackstone reports are always great.

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I use the dino in everything and it is what rekluse recommends for all their clutches

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...an another oil thread is born....

 

Experience & Proof here:

 

2013 Beta 520RS 130+ hours (~3000 miles) using Rotella 15W-40 (dino oil) in both engine & trans....no problems. Clutch is fine. Oil changed every 8-10 hrs. Oil filter changed every third time. Bike is trail ridden.

 

2009 KTM EXC530 300+ hours (~8500 miles) using Rotellla 15W-40 (dino oil) in both engine & trans.....no problems. Clutch is fine. Oil changed every 8-10 hrs. Oil filter changed every third time. Bike was trail ridden.

 

2009 Husqvarna SMR510 (supermoto) 10,000+ hard road miles (lots of wide open throttle & clutched up wheelies) using Rotella 15W-40 dino oil....no problems. Oil filter changed every third time. Clutch replaced @ 9000 miles.

 

....buy expensive oil if ya want, but my experience shows it's not necessary.

 

Also, other dirt bike motors (with significant mileage & hours) taken apart after using Rotella 15W-40 and/or 5W-30 Showing no signs of wear (or unusual wear).

 

....,So, buy expensive synthetic (designer oil) if ya want.... but my experience shows that it's just not necessary.

 

PS - I finally worked up the nerve to switch to Rotella after reading countless testimonials from other people who switched.

 

Much $$$ saved.

Edited by dirtSurfer13
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Only way to determine if the oil is good oil or life of oil is having oil analyst done. I had done it with my diesel which is very hard on oil. No color, smell or motor lasted many miles can tell you that. We all change the oil more than we need to and this is the big reason we see high mileage,,, not the oil being good. If you really want to save $$ on oil, skip the synthetic and buy Walmart old roy brand for $.99. Change it at 5 hrs and be done. Just don't store it long, use in humid conditions or have a filter issue.

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Until the engine blows up.

Um...see my above post. No engines have blown up and no premature wear (just lots of $$$ saved).

 

I have real world proof.

Edited by dirtSurfer13

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The dino is in all my toys and tools, engine and clutch.

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Don't trust aftermarket oils? Send it here and find out how good your choice is. http://www.blackstone-labs.com  The wifes 89 VW just before we sold it for the Rotella non believers. Honestly, when was the last time you heard or seen a motor blow from oil choice in the last 15 years. SAAB's sludge problem due to poor engineering aside.

403294_10150533270212916_1901019260_n_zp

Edited by Rotax
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Don't trust aftermarket oils? Send it here and find out how good your choice is. http://www.blackstone-labs.com  The wifes 89 VW

just before we sold it for the Rotella non believers. Honestly, when was the last time you heard or seen a motor blow from oil choice in the last 15 years. SAAB's sludge problem due to poor engineering aside.

 

 

 

 

Rotella is good stuff.. i use T-6 in my ford 6.0 diesel 'cause it helps the injectors live a long and happy life.

 

the 6.0 ford is about the most brutal engine on oil there is. the injectors are operated hydraulically by the 

engine oil. WOT has the injector control pressure about 4,000 PSI.

 

it molecularly shears the oil, breaking it down. doesn't affect the additive pack in the oil,

it destroys the oil itself. rotella T6 holds up to that better than most anything.

 

back to the beta, however.... if you are running a recluse clutch, recluse says they

recommend rotella T-3, NOT T-6 for the trans and clutch lube. about $13 a gallon at

wal mart. they don't recommend synthetics with the rekluse.

 

motul transoil expert is what beta recommends for the trans. about $13 a liter.

and motul 300 racing synthetic for the crankcase, at about $70 a gallon in the bike shops,

50 something online.

 

hmm... i'm thinking T6 in the engine, T3 in the trans... shut up, and don't go to the bank,

and it'll work fine.

 

and in severe industrial applications of lubricants, what you will see over and over

is a shell product for the lube or grease. over, and over.

 

note: blackstone labs is pretty much the standard for oil testing. not worth it for

most applications. i'd rather just dump my diesel at 5,000 mile intervals.

 

oil is cheaper than steel.

Edited by FulThrotl

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I didn't feel like driving around town to find the recommended oil so I just bought some rotella t6. No rekluse in this bike, didn't like it in my ktm 200.

Thanks for the responses, this oil thread can now die.

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Until the engine blows up.

As a tech for over 30 years I have never seen one oil type related engine failure on anything from lawn equipment to dozers. Most problems are lack of maintenance not the products used.

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Rotella is good stuff.. i use T-6 in my ford 6.0 diesel 'cause it helps the injectors live a long and happy life.

 

the 6.0 ford is about the most brutal engine on oil there is. the injectors are operated hydraulically by the 

engine oil. WOT has the injector control pressure about 4,000 PSI.

 

it molecularly shears the oil, breaking it down. doesn't affect the additive pack in the oil,

it destroys the oil itself. rotella T6 holds up to that better than most anything.

 

back to the beta, however.... if you are running a recluse clutch, recluse says they

recommend rotella T-3, NOT T-6 for the trans and clutch lube. about $13 a gallon at

wal mart. they don't recommend synthetics with the rekluse.

 

motul transoil expert is what beta recommends for the trans. about $13 a liter.

and motul 300 racing synthetic for the crankcase, at about $70 a gallon in the bike shops,

50 something online.

 

hmm... i'm thinking T6 in the engine, T3 in the trans... shut up, and don't go to the bank,

and it'll work fine.

 

and in severe industrial applications of lubricants, what you will see over and over

is a shell product for the lube or grease. over, and over.

 

note: blackstone labs is pretty much the standard for oil testing. not worth it for

most applications. i'd rather just dump my diesel at 5,000 mile intervals.

 

oil is cheaper than steel.

Using Dyno Rotella you can get 7,000 miles, oil is done. With T6 you can get 10,000 before the oil is too dirty with normal wearing metals, still good shear/protecting  properties. In this case it's worth it since the Powerstroke uses 5 gallons! If you have a remote filter you can go 14,000 miles, shear/protecting properties start to degrade. All this is based on my 7.3l Blackstone reports which shows dyno Rotella is not great but on average is better then most other dyno. However no where near the T6 or other synthetics.

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