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Oil change through frame-enging oil line?

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In my other thread I've discussed how my drain plug no longer resembles a bolt but rather a visual amalgam.

 

As a last resort, I pulled the oil line right next to the drain plug to make sure the frame was empty of oil.

 

This has me wondering...is there anything wrong with using this method from here on out? I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get the drain plug out unless I take the frame into a machinist shop. 

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In my other thread I've discussed how my drain plug no longer resembles a bolt but rather a visual amalgam.

As a last resort, I pulled the oil line right next to the drain plug to make sure the frame was empty of oil.

This has me wondering...is there anything wrong with using this method from here on out? I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get the drain plug out unless I take the frame into a machinist shop.

I don't see why not!

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Yes but not with commitment. I can't get a good angle on the drill to get it started. I'm going to change my oil through the line for now and have a shop try and get the plug out eventually. 

 

I also found out that the lower lip of the exhaust port on the case is broken off :-/ Not sure that I would have caught that when I bought the bike had I done a nitpicky inspection.  It didn't sound funny before I took it off but I don't know if it was leaking. Hopefully it's fine for now. 

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Well I started it and let it run for a few minutes. There is some very thin/faint white smoke coming from near the front of the engine. I can't tell if it is coming from a leak in the broken exhaust port or it's oil/fluid burning off the exterior of the bike. 

 

If exhaust were to leak from the exhaust port...it shouldn't be white, right?

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Should you even need to drain the frame? The hose just goes to the bottom of the motor and the motor drain is lower, why doesn't the motor drain work? Too slow? Only drains 95% instead of 99%?

 

What is the "lower lip of the exhaust port on the case"? Are you talking about the head where the pipe meets?

 

Color of smoke is not always easy to discern, especially in lower volume. Generally, blue is oil related and white is water related.

 

What model is your bike? Dirt only? I have a dirt only frame with title and current reg that's in nice shape. I bought it to transfer everything over to another frame. I'll sell for $50. Not sure where you're at in NV, but I'm about an hour west of Reno. /shamelss plug

 

:)

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Hmm. Any tips on next step? Ride around and see what happens?

 

I'm currently in the MW visiting some folks. In a few weeks I'll be back in Vegas.

 

As for the exhaust port, yes I am talking about where the pipe meets. There is what looks to be a 1cm lip coming off of the case to mate with the pipe. About 25% of that lip is missing/cracked off on the lower side of where the pipe would be. I will try and take a pic later. 

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OK rode around for about 45 minutes - didn't have any issues and idle was fine.

 

The 2nd time I started it up the smoking was gone. I'm guessing it was just residue burning off. 

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Should you even need to drain the frame? The hose just goes to the bottom of the motor and the motor drain is lower, why doesn't the motor drain work? Too slow? Only drains 95% instead of 99%?

 

The motor drain will only drain the oil from the crankcase, because the DRZ has a dry sump oiling system you also need to drain the oil out of the external oil reservoir (the frame).

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You can lean the bike on it's side to get better access to the drain bolt to drill it out.

Put an old tire or old blankets on the floor and lean the bike over on it's side.

Some one else will tell you exactly which side to lean it over on.

 

Then once you stand it up, let it stand for 1/2 hour before starting it so all the oil is back in the bottom.

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The motor drain will only drain the oil from the crankcase, because the DRZ has a dry sump oiling system you also need to drain the oil out of the external oil reservoir (the frame).

you don't "need" to drain it. Like the other guy said not draining out 5% of the oil won't hurt anything

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you don't "need" to drain it. Like the other guy said not draining out 5% of the oil won't hurt anything

 

Sure you don't NEED to do it, but it is best to get as much of the old, dirty, contaminated oil out of then engine that you can when doing an oil change.

 

Also every time I have changed my oil a heck of a lot more than 5% of the oil came out of the frame. This is especially true if you start and run the engine to warm the oil and suspend the contaminates before dropping the old oil.

Edited by Wisconsinite762
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Sure you don't NEED to do it, but it is best to get as much of the old, dirty, contaminated oil out of then engine that you can when doing an oil change.

Also every time I have changed my oil a heck of a lot more than 5% of the oil came out of the frame. This is especially true if you start and run the engine to warm the oil and suspend the contaminates before dropping the old oil.

that's true, good point.
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The motor drain will only drain the oil from the crankcase, because the DRZ has a dry sump oiling system you also need to drain the oil out of the external oil reservoir (the frame).

 

Ahhhh, oil on each side of the pump and essentially no flow unless the pump is moving, so you only drain one side. Got it, thanks.

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buy a left hand drill bit and try and extract it.i dont why you would take it to a machine shop, its easy to get off if its all rounded off. just plenty of beer and cuss words along with the drilling part should do the trick  :thumbsup:

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buy a left hand drill bit and try and extract it.i dont why you would take it to a machine shop, its easy to get off if its all rounded off. just plenty of beer and cuss words along with the drilling part should do the trick  :thumbsup:

 

because a machine shop has mag-base drills, tons of LH bits, and folks that are used to fixing screwed up bolts without causing more damage. its so easy to walk in, ask for help, and have exactly what you wanted in less than 15 minutes, and usually very cheap. 

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