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Removing the old wheel bearings?

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Replacing rear wheel bearings.

 

For some reason, there's no lip on the old wheel bearing so I can't hit it from the other side with a punch and hammer.  wtf?   :banghead:

 

Bike is a KTM 2012 300XC

 

any ideas how to remove the old wheel bearing?   :banghead:  :banghead:  :facepalm:  :foul:

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bearings don't have lips.  You sure the spacer between the two bearings isn't just stuck in place such that you can't bear against the inner race with your punch.

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This kit is pretty cool http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/20342/Tusk-Bearing-Remover?term=wheel%20bearing%20tool, but I am guessing you don't want to spend $100 at this point.  Good thing you don't need to.

 

You have to knock the inner sleeve off center.  It floats between the bearings and it may be a tight fit, but you should be able to move it with a punch.  Right now it is flush with the inside of the bearings, but it won't be.  Then you can go to work.  Use a heat gun on the hub to loosen things up, and go slow.

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Remember that there is a circlip on one side or the other, so pry the seal out first and remove that.

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I removed the circlip on the one side, working inn the other side now. There is no edge to catch with the punch. I'm going to try taking it to the dealer tomorrow I think. I dint have a blind bearing puller nor a propane torch.

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I removed the circlip on the one side, working inn the other side now. There is no edge to catch with the punch. I'm going to try taking it to the dealer tomorrow I think. I dint have a blind bearing puller nor a propane torch.

 

all you have to do is what the guy said above. move the center spacer over. just put the punch in the hole where the axle goes, almost, but not quite, all the way to the other side of the center spacer and then just lever it over...you might have to lightly hit the top of the punch sideways with a hammer to generate enough levering force to move it over, but it will move over. then just drive the bearing out with the punch on the inner race (the "lip") like you usually do.

 

heating up the hub with a torch or heat gun does make the bearing come out easier, but you don't usually absolutely have to do it. I(along those lines, put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and leave them there until just before you are ready to install them.)

Edited by LittleRedToyota
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That's what it looks like. The wheel also converges making it even harder to find the lip.

That's harder since you had the bearing come all the way apart. Still get-able with the right drift. I have about a 6" long pice of 5/16" steel round stock with a chisel end on it I keep sharp on the grinder just for doing these. Works great.

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That's what it looks like. The wheel also converges making it even harder to find the lip.

 

OK so here is what you do.  Go to Home Depot and get a Dremel bit like this http://www.zoro.com/g/00054190/k-G1891863?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CIOx-b-q374CFYxlOgodCDYAqA

 

If you have a Dremel tool, good!  If you don't, use a drill.  Cut through what is left of the bearing and you will be done.  It does not matter in the least if you nick the hub, but try not to.  That's what I have done in your situation.  If there is a better way, I am all ears.  

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mike! i didn't pay any attention to your username and didn't realize who you were til just now. :facepalm::lol: didn't understand the bearing had come apart, either...

 

if you can bring it by my place, i can help you get it out. i have a dremel (with proper bits), torch, blind bearing puller, and whatever else we'll need. shouldn't be a big deal. text or pm or call me.

 

stan

Edited by LittleRedToyota
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mike! i didn't pay any attention to your username and didn't realize who you were til just now. :facepalm::lol: didn't understand the bearing had come apart, either...

 

if you can bring it by my place, i can help you get it out. i have a dremel (with proper bits), torch, blind bearing puller, and whatever else we'll need. shouldn't be a big deal. text or pm or call me.

 

stan

 

:thumbsup:  :thumbsup: very cool.

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When you cut through that ring, it will just pop out, as you know LRT.  There is no risk of damage from nicking the hub, but better to nick from the inside out so the seal can do its job.  Go slow.

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If you have access to a mig welder. Weld a couple small beads onto the outer race. The heat will shrink the race and it will fall right out.

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If you have access to a mig welder. Weld a couple small beads onto the outer race. The heat will shrink the race and it will fall right out.

No, the heat will do the opposite. It will expand. However, you may be able to get a purchase for your punch on the bead.

I've done two things in similar situations. One method is to make a modified punch like mentioned above. Your punch won't have much power, but you can apply some heat to the hub carefully with a torch which will expand it, and then take an ice cube and rub it on the race, shrinking it. Then hit it with you modified punch. It will easily come out.

The other method is the Dremel method.

Either way works fine.

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Better than a Dremal.

 

If you have a decent sized air compressor Harbor Frt. sells a great little air grinder for about $20.  It's about the diameter of a cigar, spins 56,000 rpm, and you hold it like a pencil. 

 

It's a copy of a $200 one from IR.  I have had mine for about 10 years and it's been great. 

 

 

 

image_22213.jpg

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unfortunately, i thought he was a different mike. i have a riding buddy who's name is mike, goes by motomike on a few forum, also rides a 2012 (or maybe 2013) 300xc and, going by the tiny avatar pic of motomike1 kinda sort looks the same (and is also, obviously, in PA)...crazy coincidence.

mike, as i mentioned in my PM, i'd still be more than happy to help you out, but i think you live on the other side of the state...about 5 hours away (i'm in pittsburgh and i think he is somewhere in the general vicinity of philly).

anybody else happen to live near him that could help him out? it should take all of 5 minutes.

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