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I want to mod my IMS 4.0 tank, help me out.

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So I just got a natural (translucent) IMS 4.0 tank in the mail. I'm planning on doing two mods.

 

1) I want to put a strip of electrical tape down the side and dye it black, that way I'll have a nice black tank but with a gas guage.

I'm thinking it should be as simple as finding a basin big enough to submerge it and filling it with sand or something to keep it submerged.

 

2) I want to modify the lines from the petcock so that "On" drains one entire lobe of the tank, and "Res" drains the other lobe.

I haven't pulled the petcock off my old tank yet, but I'm assuming all I'll need to do it cut the "On" stalk down and add a hose to the "Res" stalk that goes to the other lobe. That hose might need a weight or something to keep it from moving around though.

 

Any thoughts on good ways to do these things?

 

EDIT: So I just looked at the stock petcock and the tubes are metal and the res tube is all the way down. They also have fuel filters on them.

I'm thinking I can just flip over the little plate with "On/Pri/Res/ on it and re-label "Res" as "On" and vice versa.

Edited by raimondi1337

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You could always add the tape, spray the tank with plastidip and then remove the tape prior to it drying. I don't know if I'd be keen on submerging it and I'm not an expert but can you even dye plastic after it is set? Usually the die is added to plastic while it is still liquid/powder.

Edited by Joehio
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You can dye some palstics yes.  Its messy and would probably not be a fun job on something that size.  I would try to paint it before dyeing it.  Painting plastic is also not a fun job as it is hard to make it resitante to scaratches and such.  what about using black vinal or something and leaving a white strip of the tank uncovered?

 

Will there be enough of a "pull" to suck the gass out of une side of the tank? im not sure what kind of negative pressure is created.  I would assume the hose in the tank would have to loop up anda round the back bone to reach the other side.  you'd loose the head pressure.

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Dying the tank black is no biggie, there's some good info the Yamaha 2T forum. Make sure you find a tape that has temperature usage limits that are higher than whatever the rit dye solution has to be.

 

Probably a silly question, but will the right side drain to the left side just by running a line? The carb is gravity fed, so will the weight of the fuel be enough to push it higher than it's own surface? I think this is why some tanks have petcocks on both sides.

 

As for weighing it down, I think chainsaws use something similar in their fuel tanks so you can use it at any angle. The bonus being, you know it's fuel safe.

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Plasti-dip plasti-dip plasti-dip!!! Way easier and is made for plastic. I like your idea of having a gas gauge.

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Plasti-dip plasti-dip plasti-dip!!! Way easier and is made for plastic. I like your idea of having a gas gauge.

 

 

You could always add the tape, spray the tank with plastidip and then remove the tape prior to it drying. I don't know if I'd be keen on submerging it and I'm not an expert but can you even dye plastic after it is set? Usually the die is added to plastic while it is still liquid/powder.

 

I plasti-dipped the tank on my SV650, it was shit. I used to play lacrosse and we could cover the heads of our sticks with hot glue and electrical tape and dye them, it worked great. People dye tanks like this all the time too, it's way better than paint.

 

 

 

You can dye some palstics yes.  Its messy and would probably not be a fun job on something that size.  I would try to paint it before dyeing it.  Painting plastic is also not a fun job as it is hard to make it resitante to scaratches and such.  what about using black vinal or something and leaving a white strip of the tank uncovered?

 

Will there be enough of a "pull" to suck the gass out of une side of the tank? im not sure what kind of negative pressure is created.  I would assume the hose in the tank would have to loop up anda round the back bone to reach the other side.  you'd loose the head pressure.

 

 

Dying the tank black is no biggie, there's some good info the Yamaha 2T forum. Make sure you find a tape that has temperature usage limits that are higher than whatever the rit dye solution has to be.

 

Probably a silly question, but will the right side drain to the left side just by running a line? The carb is gravity fed, so will the weight of the fuel be enough to push it higher than it's own surface? I think this is why some tanks have petcocks on both sides.

 

As for weighing it down, I think chainsaws use something similar in their fuel tanks so you can use it at any angle. The bonus being, you know it's fuel safe.

 

I hadn't thought about that... the vacuum line provides some amount of vacuum which should be enough to move fuel trough the line regardless of how long it is, right? I'm not very familiar with this setup.

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Plasti dip is a no go on gas tanks, first time your filling up and get a drop of fuel on it and it's ruined.

I like your idea, but make sure you know what your in for. Most dyed tanks I have seen look terrible honestly (more purple than black) and there's no going back if you don't like it

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I plasti-dipped the tank on my SV650, it was shit. I used to play lacrosse and we could cover the heads of our sticks with hot glue and electrical tape and dye them, it worked great. People dye tanks like this all the time too, it's way better than paint.

really? I thought it would work well. Burst my bubble lol

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I hadn't thought about that... the vacuum line provides some amount of vacuum which should be enough to move fuel trough the line regardless of how long it is, right? I'm not very familiar with this setup.

 

The vacuum line is just there to provide a vacuum signal to the diaphragm which will allow fuel to flow when the engine is running. It does not "suck" the fuel out of the tank.

 

In theory what you want to do with the fuel line would work if there was a constant flow of fuel through that line. It works under the same principle that syphoning fuel from a gas tank does. BUT I don't think it would work very well in this application because the flow is not constant, it starts and stops when the float opens and closes, so you really would't be moving enough volume for it to work…….

 

If it was me and I wanted to get every last drop of fuel out the tank that I could, I would try and add a second petcock to the other side of the tank and then use a Y fitting to bring the 2 separate lines together.

 

Just my 2 cents

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First off, to the people telling you to paint it. That won't work. These tanks actually vent gasoline fumes through the plastic. So any paint or even stickers put on them, will bubble, and it will look like crap. With the exception of stickers made for this type of application, and they have lots of tiny holes in them.

 

That said, dying it should work, I would recommend Rit dye, commonly used for this exact project. Typically people dye the entire thing, inside and out, and you want a fuel line on yours, so that will be... interesting to do. I actually had the same idea if I ever bought a Safari tank. You may need to up the strength of the dye since you will only be doing the outside of it, that or dye it multiple times, because you don't want it to look purple or whatever.

 

As for weighing it down, I would use something that is water soluble like salt or sugar, so you can be sure that when you wash it out with water, its all gone.

 

As for the on/res thing, I want to do something similar when I get a Safari tank, so I don't need to lean the bike over to get more fuel, lol.

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One thing is that you will not even need to worry about an extra line over to the other lobe.  Two you will hardly ever be worried about fuel again. Since Ive had my IMS I think I've only hit reserve twice in four years. If you do hit reserve and run out, just tip the bike over on it's left side and wala! You can go about 5 more miles. Anyway I would go with a dye not a dip. Good Luck!

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You may need to up the strength of the dye since you will only be doing the outside of it, that or dye it multiple times, because you don't want it to look purple or whatever.

 

If I let it dye for long enough it should be completely black, but if not I can just dye it a second time.

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If I let it dye for long enough it should be completely black, but if not I can just dye it a second time.

 

I wish you lots of luck, as I said, I want to do the same thing, but with a transparent Safari 17L tank.

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So I just got a natural (translucent) IMS 4.0 tank in the mail. I'm planning on doing two mods.

 

1) I want to put a strip of electrical tape down the side and dye it black, that way I'll have a nice black tank but with a gas guage.

I'm thinking it should be as simple as finding a basin big enough to submerge it and filling it with sand or something to keep it submerged.

 

2) I want to modify the lines from the petcock so that "On" drains one entire lobe of the tank, and "Res" drains the other lobe.

I haven't pulled the petcock off my old tank yet, but I'm assuming all I'll need to do it cut the "On" stalk down and add a hose to the "Res" stalk that goes to the other lobe. That hose might need a weight or something to keep it from moving around though.

 

Any thoughts on good ways to do these things?

 

EDIT: So I just looked at the stock petcock and the tubes are metal and the res tube is all the way down. They also have fuel filters on them.

I'm thinking I can just flip over the little plate with "On/Pri/Res/ on it and re-label "Res" as "On" and vice versa.

Don't ruin that tank.

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I would do a test with the electrical tape before just dunking a tank and hoping it works. Finding the right tape might be the hard part of the project. Maybe ask the people down at your local auto-body and paint supply for some answers on that.

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