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2000 DRZ400, idle too high?

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Hello there everyone!

I bought myself a 2000 DRZ400 about 3 weeks ago, i haven't had much time to ride it though. But something I noticed was that there seems too be an issue with the idle.

When it's cold, it wont idle at all, it simply dies. When it's warm, the idle is too high. However if I gently release the clutch a bit, just to add some drag, I can force it down to what I would call a "proper" idle. However it only stays there for a few seconds and then it's idling too high again.

As I am rather new to this whole fiddleing with well anything that has a motor on it, I really don't know what to do. This is my first bike and I have almost no experice with machines at all. 
I had a friend look it over, who has a lot more experiance and a mechanical education. However he didn't have much time, so what he tried was to fiddle with the screw(s) on the carb to see if it would idle properly with some adjustments. As I was not there when he did it, I don't really know the result. However he told me that no matter how much he fiddled with the screw(s) nothing changed. His recommendation was to open up the carb, clean it out and take a look at the insides of it. 
I think I can manage that at least. I helped a friend clean out the carb on his CRF450, he did most of the work but I watched as he did it. 

However I am unsure of what to exactly look at when I open it up. How do I know if everything is as it should be? What might cause the issue? As I said, im a total noob to this and any help would be great! I figured the best way to learn is to try, but then again even if I open it, i'm not sure how it should look too start with.

Here is a short video of it idleing. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU6facoNB1k


Other than having "issues" with the high idle, everything else seems to work fine. I havne't had any issues, it doesn't hesitate (then again, im driving it rather carefully right now), easy to start (1-2 kicks), well it just runs fine far as I know.

I would also like to ask, if for some reason I can't fix this myself, is it still okay to ride it? As I might not be able to get someone to help me for a while and I would really like to go out and ride some more.


ps. I'm Swedish, that doesn't mean I have any issues understand English. However I might not understand some names or technical terms. Just so you know if it looks like I ask a stupid question about something really simple.

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my stock 2000 had a funky idle that would stick high with alittle gas and then not want to drop down until the throttle was fully closed, and didnt respond hardly at all to the idle adjustment - i rode it like that for years it wont hurt it you get used to it .. the carb is just really lean stock, i did the 3X3 mod/ jd with extended fuel screw, blew out the carb, adjusted and lubed the cables at the top and bottom end and now its got a really crisp throttle and responds very positive to adjustment ..

Edited by cowpie

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Hard to tell the idle speed by the vid,  but sounds about right,  maybe a tad too high,  get a TTO tachometer,  and set your idle to 1800 rpm. 

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Hard to tell the idle speed by the vid,  but sounds about right,  maybe a tad too high,  get a TTO tachometer,  and set your idle to 1800 rpm. 

Very possible that it is fine, however when compared to how other bikes around 400(ish)cc sounds when idleing, it sounds way to high. My friends crf450 (03) idles way lower than mine.

Will think about a TTO Tachometer! Thing is, they arnt that wide spread here in Sweden, not to mention rather expensive... (more than twice the price compared to the US).

edit: ordered one anyway, not from TTO but one which I found was available here in Sweden, a simple hour/tach. Should work just fine. I figured, eh might aswell, if it doesn't break it's something I could keep for a rather long time.

Edited by elghinnarisa

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Definitely a high idle.

 

Mine did that, and also the petcock needed to be on Prime to run. There was a vacuum line that was supposed to run to the petcock that was off, which meant a vacuum leak caused the high idle AND the problem with the petcock.

 

If you have the ON/OFF/RES petcock, maybe check to see if it was converted from a vacuum petcock and look for a line (it has a 180 degree bend in it) that goes to nowhere. Plug it with your finger and your idle will drop.

 

Also, perhaps your choke is partially on? 

 

Does the bike start from complete cold without the choke?

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Definitely a high idle.

 

Mine did that, and also the petcock needed to be on Prime to run. There was a vacuum line that was supposed to run to the petcock that was off, which meant a vacuum leak caused the high idle AND the problem with the petcock.

 

If you have the ON/OFF/RES petcock, maybe check to see if it was converted from a vacuum petcock and look for a line (it has a 180 degree bend in it) that goes to nowhere. Plug it with your finger and your idle will drop.

 

Also, perhaps your choke is partially on? 

 

Does the bike start from complete cold without the choke?

I will check that the next time I am around it! As it is currently not in the same place as I am.

The bike does start from cold without the choke, however the moment it starts I need to twist a bit on the throttle to keep it running or it will die within 1-3 seconds. Even without the choke it is easy to start(1-3 kicks), however it wont run by itself without the choke on.

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I will check that the next time I am around it! As it is currently not in the same place as I am.

The bike does start from cold without the choke, however the moment it starts I need to twist a bit on the throttle to keep it running or it will die within 1-3 seconds. Even without the choke it is easy to start(1-3 kicks), however it wont run by itself without the choke on.

 

Yeah  sounds like a vacuum leak then.. shouldn't start without the choke.

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Here is a update, got my self a tach now and here is a video of the bike running: "clip removed, check later post."

The bike wasn't fully warmed up there, which is why it dies when trying to idle, but you can see what is going on there.
At the start of the clip its running with choke, which i later turn off (rather obvious). 
But as you can see it is way higher than 1800rpm. And when it actually goes down to around 1800-2000rpm you can hear a "clucking" sound and it dies. 
You can also sometimes hear that cluck and then you know it almost died (if you are fast enough to turn the throttle a bit). I also give it a bit of gas when I feel like it's about to die, or when i hear that "cluck" that I always hear when it dies.
I can't really be sure what that noise it, but it's basically the noise you hear right at the moment that it dies. A example of where I heard it before was when I was riding around on the idle only, and i managed to stall it, however the momentum carrying me forward managed to start it again. Same kind of sound. Don't really know if that explains anything. Will try to get a better video when there is weather enough to actually ride it around a bit, let it warm up properly.

I cant really do any settings to the idle from the outside of the carb and I really don't know what to check for either. With my extremly limited knowledge about mechanics I havn't really found anything wrong. But then again, I don't even know what the right settings should be.

Edited by elghinnarisa

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Throttle cables too tight? Does it get worse when you turn the bars one way or the other?

If your cables are binding, you're idle can be artificially too high no matter the idle setting.

Take the headlight shroud, seat and tank off to check for binding.

Usually this caused by a big bar riser.

You can rotate the throttle housing so the cables come out the bottom to give you more slack in the throttle cables.

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I assume your E version has an FCR carb?  I have put that carb on my S model and after a year or two, my bike did the exact same thing.  I found a partial blockage of a fuel passage in either the pilot or main jet (sorry - don't remember which one)

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I assume your E version has an FCR carb?  I have put that carb on my S model and after a year or two, my bike did the exact same thing.  I found a partial blockage of a fuel passage in either the pilot or main jet (sorry - don't remember which one)

 Far as I know, this is the 400K version, in the paper it is listed as 400Y.
I have plans to clean out the carb, however I am waiting for a friend to give me a hand as with my limited know-how about anything with a engine connected too it, it is doomed from the start. So I rather have someone who knows with me. 

 

Throttle cables too tight? Does it get worse when you turn the bars one way or the other?

If your cables are binding, you're idle can be artificially too high no matter the idle setting.

Take the headlight shroud, seat and tank off to check for binding.

Usually this caused by a big bar riser.

You can rotate the throttle housing so the cables come out the bottom to give you more slack in the throttle cables.

I forgot to check that! A friend told me the same. Will take a look at it tomorrow see if I can find something there.

 

 

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 Far as I know, this is the 400K version, in the paper it is listed as 400Y.

I have plans to clean out the carb, however I am waiting for a friend to give me a hand as with my limited know-how about anything with a engine connected too it, it is doomed from the start. So I rather have someone who knows with me. 

 

I forgot to check that! A friend told me the same. Will take a look at it tomorrow see if I can find something there.

 

 

 

 

K and E models have the same carb.

 

The reason it isn't listed as a "400K" is because Suzuki never gave the kickstart model the "K" suffix, that is something "we" (the DRZ community) did.

 

Makes sense IMO….. K = kickstart  and  E = electric start          :blah:

Edited by Wisconsinite762

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K and E models have the same carb.

 

The reason it isn't listed as a "400K" is because Suzuki never gave the kickstart model the "K" suffix, that is something "we" (the DRZ community) did.

 

Makes sense IMO….. K = kickstart  and  E = electric start          :blah:

Easier to just call it K then and everyone will know what one it is. : P 

I took it out for a ride today and made better clip today when it was nice and warm and idles "fine" (stays alive at least). : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcSrmJebFjs

It idles way too high obviously, and I force it down to a more proper idle using the clutch a bit. Where it stays untill I give it a tiiiiny bit of throttle and then it goes up to around 3.5k again.

I also turned the bars back and forth a rather long time earlier than when this video was made. No change at all, neither when it was at the proper idle, nor at the higher idle that it gets stuck in. The turning in the video is unrelated to that, I just had the front wheel placed on a small rock that was moving around and it was annoying me.

Other than that the idle is high, i really havn't found any issues when riding it. It works just fine riding it around. Of course I really don't ride it hard but every now and then i give that throttle a good pull and the bike just pulls away. Never hesitating or such. Then again I might be too easy on the throttle to notice it.

Also worth mentioning. When it is cold and I start it with the choke, it idles at around 4-4.3k. After I been riding it a little while (no choke ofc) it idles at around 3-3.5k.

 

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Hello,

I have a 2004 DRZ400 that has a high idle at the start of the bike. Here is some background:

 

Came out of work and the bike won't start, sounded flooded. Trailered the bike home, drained the carb and went to bed. Woke up the next morning with gas all over the garage floor. Prior to this, bike seemed to be running fine, I commute on it daily (unless there has been a slow decline that I haven't noticed). Pulled the carb (Mikuni that has been re-jetted with the 3x3 JDJetting kit) and broke it down. Replaced the valve seat o-ring (which just crumbled apart when removing) and also replaced the o-ring on the main jet as that also looked deteriorated. Since the valve seat sat higher with the new o-ring I readjusted the float (this was a bit of a challenge so I am not 100% confident that it is within range). I broke down the carb, inspected all the pieces, cleaned it (everything looked super clean from the start), re-assembled and put back in. The air intake boot was full of gas so I removed and cleaned this as well. Did and oil change, reassembled and wouldn't start. Pulled carb again, made some float and fuel screw adjustments and same  problem. Pulled a third time, made some more float adjustments, made sure gaskets were tight, set fuel screw at 2 turns out and she fired right up. 

 

But now she is idling high from the start, I mean really high where it doesn't take long for the front pipe to glow red. I don't have a tach so I don't know RPMs. Adjusting the fuel adjustment screw doesn't affect anything. I have started the bike both with and without the throttle cables attached plus I let out all the slack to minimize the chance of binding.  I made sure the gaskets connecting the carb are as tight as possible. The petcock is one that has fuel, reserve and prime. (On a side note, also had a radiator leak, put some radiator stop leak in there and seemed to fix the radiator problem- thought I would mention it just in case it is relevant info). I sprayed carb cleaner around the gaskets and it is hard to tell if there was a difference based on how the bike sounds at baseline. It starts with or without the choke on; if I start with the choke out and then push it in, there is an ever so slight difference in idle sound, but not much. I am afraid to let the bike run long because of the high idle. 

 

So I am at my whit's end. :banghead: Does anyone have any ideas? At this point because of the initial high idle I am thinking there is an air leak (running lean), but I don't know where to start to try to figure it out. Also, how long does it take for the idle to change when carb cleaner is sprayed around the gaskets should there be an air leak? I may not be running the bike long enough to see an effect? Could I have f'd something up inside the carb? Could I have damaged something removing/replacing the air intake boot and carb? Would the hose that comes out of the air intake boot affect anything?

 

Thanks for any insight. I am not mechanically inclined, so layman's terms would be helpful with any suggestions.  :ride:

-Barb

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Hello,

I have a 2004 DRZ400 that has a high idle at the start of the bike. Here is some background:

 

Came out of work and the bike won't start, sounded flooded. Trailered the bike home, drained the carb and went to bed. Woke up the next morning with gas all over the garage floor. Prior to this, bike seemed to be running fine, I commute on it daily (unless there has been a slow decline that I haven't noticed). Pulled the carb (Mikuni that has been re-jetted with the 3x3 JDJetting kit) and broke it down. Replaced the valve seat o-ring (which just crumbled apart when removing) and also replaced the o-ring on the main jet as that also looked deteriorated. Since the valve seat sat higher with the new o-ring I readjusted the float (this was a bit of a challenge so I am not 100% confident that it is within range). I broke down the carb, inspected all the pieces, cleaned it (everything looked super clean from the start), re-assembled and put back in. The air intake boot was full of gas so I removed and cleaned this as well. Did and oil change, reassembled and wouldn't start. Pulled carb again, made some float and fuel screw adjustments and same  problem. Pulled a third time, made some more float adjustments, made sure gaskets were tight, set fuel screw at 2 turns out and she fired right up. 

 

But now she is idling high from the start, I mean really high where it doesn't take long for the front pipe to glow red. I don't have a tach so I don't know RPMs. Adjusting the fuel adjustment screw doesn't affect anything. I have started the bike both with and without the throttle cables attached plus I let out all the slack to minimize the chance of binding.  I made sure the gaskets connecting the carb are as tight as possible. The petcock is one that has fuel, reserve and prime. (On a side note, also had a radiator leak, put some radiator stop leak in there and seemed to fix the radiator problem- thought I would mention it just in case it is relevant info). I sprayed carb cleaner around the gaskets and it is hard to tell if there was a difference based on how the bike sounds at baseline. It starts with or without the choke on; if I start with the choke out and then push it in, there is an ever so slight difference in idle sound, but not much. I am afraid to let the bike run long because of the high idle. 

 

So I am at my whit's end. :banghead: Does anyone have any ideas? At this point because of the initial high idle I am thinking there is an air leak (running lean), but I don't know where to start to try to figure it out. Also, how long does it take for the idle to change when carb cleaner is sprayed around the gaskets should there be an air leak? I may not be running the bike long enough to see an effect? Could I have f'd something up inside the carb? Could I have damaged something removing/replacing the air intake boot and carb? Would the hose that comes out of the air intake boot affect anything?

 

Thanks for any insight. I am not mechanically inclined, so layman's terms would be helpful with any suggestions.  :ride:

-Barb

I can't give you any usefull information, but I can give you (and other people) the solution to my issue.

I later found out that the issue was with the throttle wire, or rather the wire that closes the carb. Which was getting stuck and there for not pulling back as it should. 

As to what issue you have with yours, i cannot help with. Hope you figure it out though!

Edit: and yes, I kinda forgot about TT. Too many forums to keep track of. xD

Edited by elghinnarisa

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How does the bike run when your riding it..?...

 

It sounds like it is sucking air from the intake boot....re check the carb is fitted into the boot rubber correctly.....

Edited by Craigo

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