Rekluse and slippery hills

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

I ride in rainforest that becomes extremely slippery when wet (which is all the time), even a gradual incline cam be difficult to get up as the ground becomes like greased ice if it rains. In the past I have generally let the bike lug down really low to allow the rear tyre to bite in and get traction, however I have found with the rekluse that this isn't possible because the rekluse takes over and slips the clutch too much with too high revs. The last ride I had to push the bike up some hills which I have not had to do since I tried a trials tyre out there 6 years ago! My question is, will heavier wedges and lighter springs get the revs low enough or will the rekluse never have that ability? As it is the rekluse is unusable in that situation.

Bike is a yz250f with core exp 3 set at earliest engagemt with what is supplied in the box.

[Mr_Motocross]

pin it to win it braaap!

[motovita]

I don't think you'll be able to tune the Rekluse to work the way you're describing. The Core EXP is great for racing use. I would try modifying your riding techniques, or go to a manual clutch.

Edited June 5, 2014 by motovita

[poconovfr]

I tend to roll into a slick hill with a touch more momentum and a gear higher and let that Rekluse work.

[Hans Schmid]

Yes and yes....

[woods-rider]

My buddy has the same problem with his rekluse. He actually leaves it out all the time now besides when we go to flatter areas like China Hat in central Oregon.

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

Yes and yes....

Yes and yes to what?

I'm still on the fence anout the rekluse anyway and the vague and disconnected feeling it has, like driving an auto car. I bought due to the extreme enduro style cross country series I'm racing this year which has killer rock gardens, especially on a easy to stall mxer under race conditions. Not sure if I want to spend another $120 on it for the wedges hoping I makes a huge difference. I probably do need to change my riding style but some of these spots you just can't even build momentum.

[Hans Schmid]

Yes and yes to what?

I'm still on the fence anout the rekluse anyway and the vague and disconnected feeling it has, like driving an auto car. I bought due to the extreme enduro style cross country series I'm racing this year which has killer rock gardens, especially on a easy to stall mxer under race conditions. Not sure if I want to spend another $120 on it for the wedges hoping I makes a huge difference. I probably do need to change my riding style but some of these spots you just can't even build momentum.

Yes, different springs and heavier wedges will solve your problems...You just have a high engagement point...

Edited June 6, 2014 by Monk

[Pittbull]

Hmmm, it is a YZ250F and they are a fairly snappy bike that does love it's power band. Monk rides a very similar machine , completely pimped out, but does have the same Rekluse. I ride a 2014TE300 Berg with the Core EXP3 as well and have no issue what so ever climbing and my trails are very similar to what you're describing. The Berg TE300 caries a ton of power down low unlike a YZ250 but I had no issues that I can remember when I got used to Monk's bike. Not sure what his settings are but if he says heavier springs and wedges it will fix your issues, I'd tend to listen. I install the heaviest springs included with my kit just for kicks one day and liked the difference. someday I will switch to different wedge just to see what that does but for now I have not reason to change. I hope you do this mod...I'd like to hear what your outcome really is.

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

Previously I have had 3 consecutive YZ250 2Ts over 8 years which in all honesty were better bikes for that riding. My other riding spot is fast whooped rooted rocky single track where the YZ250F is absolutely amazing. I think I will get the heavy wedges, a new tyre wouldn't hurt either but I could always get the 2T up stuff no matter how bad the back tyre was. 

[motovita]

Previously I have had 3 consecutive YZ250 2Ts over 8 years which in all honesty were better bikes for that riding. My other riding spot is fast whooped rooted rocky single track where the YZ250F is absolutely amazing. I think I will get the heavy wedges, a new tyre wouldn't hurt either but I could always get the 2T up stuff no matter how bad the back tyre was. 

 

Please post your results, as well as your bike setup, 18" wheel, flywheel weight, gearing,etc.

[c-slak]

Previously I have had 3 consecutive YZ250 2Ts over 8 years which in all honesty were better bikes for that riding. My other riding spot is fast whooped rooted rocky single track where the YZ250F is absolutely amazing. I think I will get the heavy wedges, a new tyre wouldn't hurt either but I could always get the 2T up stuff no matter how bad the back tyre was. 

I have a cr250 and am running the heavy wedges and the lightest (silver) springs.  I like a really low engagement point and will modulate the clutch manually when needed for power/ traction reasons.

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

So after thinking about it I came to the conclusion that reducing the installed gap would lower the pick up rpm of the clutch. So set it to 1 turn minus 2 ticks instead of the standard plus 2 ticks... aaaaand it was 10x better.

I'm going to progressively back it out till it stalls then go in a few ticks. Got up some nasty slippery root infested climbs today when none of the 2ts could. Much happier with it.

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

Please post your results, as well as your bike setup, 18" wheel, flywheel weight, gearing,etc.

My bike is 100% stock besides 18" rear, 50t rear sprocket and the rekluse.

[SpunBearing]

So set it to 1 turn minus 2 ticks instead of the standard plus 2 ticks... aaaaand it was 10x better.

Interesting.

 

Glad it's working better now.

[motovita]

So after thinking about it I came to the conclusion that reducing the installed gap would lower the pick up rpm of the clutch. So set it to 1 turn minus 2 ticks instead of the standard plus 2 ticks... aaaaand it was 10x better.

I'm going to progressively back it out till it stalls then go in a few ticks. Got up some nasty slippery root infested climbs today when none of the 2ts could. Much happier with it.

 I rode my WR250F yesterday with the Core EXP2 set at 1/2 turn in. I liked it better than any setup I've tried, I have the heaviest weights and lightest springs. The clutch drags at idle if I don't pull the clutch in but never stalled all day in numerous rock gardens and extremely tight and steep single track. I have a bit more flywheel weight than you do though.

[Vintage Not Pimpage]

 I rode my WR250F yesterday with the Core EXP2 set at 1/2 turn in. I liked it better than any setup I've tried, I have the heaviest weights and lightest springs. The clutch drags at idle if I don't pull the clutch in but never stalled all day in numerous rock gardens and extremely tight and steep single track. I have a bit more flywheel weight than you do though.

 

 

How did you find it at half a turn? Does the clutch pick up instantly with throttle?

I asked rekluse about using less than the reccomended install gap but their response was "as long as its within the free gain range" which it obvisously won't be.. the only thing I can see will happen is that the wedges will not throw out as far before the clutch starts engaging.. not sure if that would ever cause any issues.

[motovita]

How did you find it at half a turn? Does the clutch pick up instantly with throttle?

I asked rekluse about using less than the reccomended install gap but their response was "as long as its within the free gain range" which it obvisously won't be.. the only thing I can see will happen is that the wedges will not throw out as far before the clutch starts engaging.. not sure if that would ever cause any issues.

 

 At 1/2 turn the clutch never fully disengages, with the idle speed around 1800rpm, but it slips enough to prevent the engine from stalling.

 I've been experimenting using 1/2 turn as my base setting. At 1/2 turn plus 4 "ticks" the freewheeling with the throttle closed feeling that I don't like came back, even though there is still significant drag at idle. At 1/2 turn minus 1 tick I was able to stall the engine easily if I tried, 1/2 turn seems to be the threshold, eventually I did get the engine to stall once at 1/2 turn.

 For the next ride I will set it at 1/2 turn plus 1 tick and probably leave it at that.

 I f I still had the original wedges I would put them back in. In hind sight I don't think the heavier wedges are necessary and may contribute to breaking traction during off/on throttle transitions.

Edited June 12, 2014 by motovita

[c-slak]

 At 1/2 turn the clutch never fully disengages, with the idle speed around 1800rpm, but it slips enough to prevent the engine from stalling.

 I've been experimenting using 1/2 turn as my base setting. At 1/2 turn plus 4 "ticks" the freewheeling with the throttle closed feeling that I don't like came back, even though there is still significant drag at idle. At 1/2 turn minus 1 tick I was able to stall the engine easily if I tried, 1/2 turn seems to be the threshold, eventually I did get the engine to stall once at 1/2 turn.

 For the next ride I will set it at 1/2 turn plus 1 tick and probably leave it at that.

 I f I still had the original wedges I would put them back in. In hind sight I don't think the heavier wedges are necessary and may contribute to breaking traction during off/on throttle transitions.

Just curious.  If you have it set that low, can you bump start it?

[motovita]

Just curious.  If you have it set that low, can you bump start it?

 

 No, with a dead engine it will roll in gear, with substantial drag. I suspect if you back the adjuster to zero preload you could bump start it, but I haven't tried.