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Question about re-lacing spokes to a rear wheel

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Last week I picked up a used rear wheel in great shape. It looks like I need to replace about 5-6 spokes and all the nipples are fused to the spokes. Tried heat and PB Blaster those suckers aren't budging! So, I've decided to fork out the cash for a new set of spokes. It doesn't make sense to spend $25 to replace a few spokes, so I'm going to just re-lace the wheel and hub I have.

 

Within my price range I have two options:

1. Billet Aluminum nipples with Stainless Steel spokes

2. Chrome plated spokes and nipples.

 

I'd like your input here, but I'm leaning towards the aluminum/stainless setup. I have another wheel that has rusty spoke nipples, and expect the chrome plated ones to end up the same way after a few years. Any downside to running aluminum nipples? I know the aluminum and stainless might fuse, but with some anti-seize and proper maintenance they should live a long life.

 

Also, the wheel is pretty straight. I'm assuming I should be able to lace the wheel myself? I have experience with bicycle wheels, I can't see this being too much different.

 

Any tips are appreciated! Thanks!

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Pretty straight forward process... important to take notes and make markings as to spoke direction, cross-count, whether they cross over or under another spoke and the pattern.  Also don't forget to record the wheel dish/offset as they (rims) are generally never centered on the hub.

 

I bought spokes from FasterUSA

Edited by bmwpowere36m3

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There are two different lengths of spoke in the rear wheel kit

Ensure you put the right length in the right positions

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I don't really care for chrome plated anything, so I'd go with option 1. Stainless and aluminum are pretty far apart on the galvanic table, so keep them lubed. Also, Aqua Shield will probably stand up to pressure washing better than anti-sieze. I've ordered from these guys before: http://www.marinesan.com/8oz_squeeze_bottle_Aqua_Shield_Grease_p/aq-8.htm

 

Rocky Mountain has a couple nice and simple videos on lacing/truing wheels:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16dwL08Wn2w

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11C379iv3Yc

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There are two different lengths of spoke in the rear wheel kit

Ensure you put the right length in the right positions

 

Would you happen to know which positions are the correct ones? I've been seeing short on the outside, long on the inside - but also all the short on one side of the wheel and all the long on the other.

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Try taking off one at a time and replace them one at a time and there should be no confusion. That's just the K.I.S.S. method! That way the right size and placement is a no question deal. Good Luck!

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Try taking off one at a time and replace them one at a time and there should be no confusion. That's just the K.I.S.S. method! That way the right size and placement is a no question deal. Good Luck!

This

After loosening them all.

And use Boiled Linseed Oil for spoke prep

It'll keep water out and stay somewhat soft allowing for future tightening.

:thumbsup:

Edited by Kenstone

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It's interesting because there are a lot of threads on TT about specifically this, but no one has a clear answer. Excel has no info about this on their website, and every wheel lacing video on the internet gallantly skips across the whole problem by saying "we're doing the frontwheel so we don't have to worry about different spoke lengths". It's actually getting a bit ridiculous. There must be _one_ way to assemble this wheel correctly and someone must know how. 

 

I actually did check for different lengths while disassembling it, but all the ones I checked ( like 3-4 spokes right when i started taking them off) was the same length - so I'm leaning towards short spokes on the drive side and long spokes on the disc side.

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Most road bikes have cast wheels today and lacing wheels is limited to cruisers/dirt bikes. 

My lacing experience comes from bicycles too, where spoke tension is much more critical.

If you are looking for lacing info search bicycles rather than motorcycles.

You'll learn about different lacing patterns and how to measure the dish (offset rim to hub).

I've sent many mc owners to bike shops to get spoked wheels trued/re-laced.

I would not consider aluminum nipples, for sure.

jmo

:thumbsup:

Edited by Kenstone

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spokes.JPGI re-laced my KX rear last season.  The difference in spoke length is minimal.  I think mine was something like 4mm different length.  Look where the spoke goes through the hub.  I"m not sure what its like on a DRZ hub, but on my KX, some spokes went through the hub towards the outside of the lip, some closer to the centerline of the hub.

 

 

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attachicon.gifspokes.JPGI re-laced my KX rear last season. The difference in spoke length is minimal. I think mine was something like 4mm different length. Look where the spoke goes through the hub. I"m not sure what its like on a DRZ hub, but on my KX, some spokes went through the hub towards the outside of the lip, some closer to the centerline of the hub.

It's basically the same on almost all dirt bike wheels it seems. Did you get your method from the wheel manufacturer or did you get there by your own reasoning?

I've put all the spokes in but I haven't tightened it up yet. All the short ones on the drive side so it should dish itself almost, seems reasonable to me. I'll post when I've got it trued.

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It's basically the same on almost all dirt bike wheels it seems. Did you get your method from the wheel manufacturer or did you get there by your own reasoning?

I've put all the spokes in but I haven't tightened it up yet. All the short ones on the drive side so it should dish itself almost, seems reasonable to me. I'll post when I've got it trued.

 

Got that from my own reasoning.  The few spokes that I could actually take out (most had to be cut in half with the grinder) I measured and found which ones went where.

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Would you happen to know which positions are the correct ones? I've been seeing short on the outside, long on the inside - but also all the short on one side of the wheel and all the long on the other.

 

Can't remember which is which, but just look at the hub

There are some spokes (half on each side) which are closer to the spindle

 

It is not all short ones on one side and all long on the other, it is half n half on each side

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Can't remember which is which, but just look at the hub

There are some spokes (half on each side) which are closer to the spindle

 

It is not all short ones on one side and all long on the other, it is half n half on each side

 

I appreciate all you guys posting this info, but I'd like to know where you got it so we can get to the bottom of this once and for all. 

 

Sheldon Brown says about building bicycle rear wheels: 

 

 

The right-side spokes of a dished rear wheel are ideally 1 or 2 mm shorter than the left-side spokes.

 

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I appreciate all you guys posting this info, but I'd like to know where you got it so we can get to the bottom of this once and for all. 

 

 

http://wheelsandparts.se/en/spokes-and-spoke-sets/all-spokes/spoke-set-drzklx-400-18-00-rear-wheel

 

This spoke set has 36 spokes with nickel plated steel nipples.

For 18” rear wheel.

Spoke size: 18 spokes of 4x185 mm, outer spokes on both sides.

Spoke size: 18 spokes of 4x188 mm, inner spokes on both sides.

OEM Suzuki Ref. 65320-29F10 (Spoke set)

 

 

 

Hopefully that answers your concern.  That gives reference to an OEM Suzuki part number.

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There are conflicting reports on spoke length and I remember searching and searching the forum for answers.  Here's my take from when I laced my wheels:

 

 

I rebuilt my both my wheels on my S with spokes from FasterUSA.  The stock spokes were arranged with the longer ones on the sprocket-side and shorter on the brake side.  The difference in length was ~ 2 mm.  The new spokes from FasterUSA were all one length and longer than the OE ones.

 

If the Excel spokes are two different lengths I would try putting them on like the OE ones (longer=sprocket, shorter=rotor).  Remember you need to lace the wheels with a certain “dish” as in the rim is NOT supposed to be centered between the hub (but shifted over towards the rotor-side).  That is something you should have measured before disassembling the wheels.

 

Thread I posted in: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/907391-drz-e-spoke-length-lacing/

 

Thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/907391-drz-e-spoke-length-lacing/

 

As far as dish... arranging the spokes correctly will help, but you still need to adjust the spokes (tension) to get it right.  As too how much dish?  Seems I never found an answer or at least a consistent one.  Hope you measured it before you took the spokes out...

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There are conflicting reports on spoke length and I remember searching and searching the forum for answers.  Here's my take from when I laced my wheels:

 

 

 

Thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/907391-drz-e-spoke-length-lacing/

 

As far as dish... arranging the spokes correctly will help, but you still need to adjust the spokes (tension) to get it right.  As too how much dish?  Seems I never found an answer or at least a consistent one.  Hope you measured it before you took the spokes out...

 

My rear wheel was in such a bad state before I took it off I didn't bother measuring. I'll put it on the swingarm after it's true and see if it sits in the middle and the chain clears the wheel. Maybe someone on the forum could measure theirs for me so I have some numbers to go off of. 

 

Also, shouldnt it be the other way? The wheel should sit towards the sprocket IMO, since the hub is extended about 10mm on the sprocket side for clearance. So the short spokes go on the sprocket side and the long ones on the rotor. 

 

I have a feeling this weekend project is going to take a couple of weeks...  :facepalm:

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My rear wheel was in such a bad state before I took it off I didn't bother measuring. I'll put it on the swingarm after it's true and see if it sits in the middle and the chain clears the wheel. Maybe someone on the forum could measure theirs for me so I have some numbers to go off of. 

 

Also, shouldnt it be the other way? The wheel should sit towards the sprocket IMO, since the hub is extended about 10mm on the sprocket side for clearance. So the short spokes go on the sprocket side and the long ones on the rotor. 

 

I have a feeling this weekend project is going to take a couple of weeks...  :facepalm:

 

No, the rim is NOT centered on the hub... it sits toward the rotor side.

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No, the rim is NOT centered on the hub... it sits toward the rotor side.

 

No, I mean if the rim sits in the center of the swingarm is what I want to measure.  :thumbsup:

Edited by ohtobias

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No, I mean if the rim sits in the center of the swingarm is what I want to measure. :thumbsup:

It's not centered in the swing arm either... go figure

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