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Crf250r first gear stall

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I just got a 2004 crf250r and when I pull in the clutch and shift it into first it stalls. The only way to get it into first without it stalling is to give it a little gas and shift simultaneously. Once the bike is In first everything runs fine and it can be rolled backward and everything. Is this normal?

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Not normal no bike should have any kind of must dooos to get that thing in first call a bike shop bud thell probably tell you exactly what's wrong over the phone

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Check your clutch cable.  Seems like your clutch is still engaged even when you pressed the lever. 

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Probably just glazed clutch plates.  Those get sticky.  Easy fix.  Lay it down on its left side and pull the plates out to see if they are glazed over.  Measure to make sure they are still in spec and, if they are glazed, give them a light sanding.  If they need to be replaced, it's not hard or expensive to do.  Let us know.

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Probably just glazed clutch plates. Those get sticky. Easy fix. Lay it down on its left side and pull the plates out to see if they are glazed over. Measure to make sure they are still in spec and, if they are glazed, give them a light sanding. If they need to be replaced, it's not hard or expensive to do. Let us know.

is this something that is going to hurt the bike of I leave it alone?

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is this something that is going to hurt the bike of I leave it alone?

You just don't want to mess with it and maybe causing yourself to open a can of worms, huh?  Hahahaha.

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is this something that is going to hurt the bike of I leave it alone?

 

No.  It will make it less fun to ride.  Put it this way, you are going to have to put new clutch plates in at some point, and you might as well be the guy who does it.  Plenty of videos on YouTube showing you exactly how.  There are other possible reasons for your clutch plates to stick, including some mentioned above, or even a notched basket and/or hub.  You won't be able to diagnose it until you get in there.  Of course, you could take up some slack in the clutch cable to see if a little more pull would solve your problem.  Just make sure you leave some free play (slack) or the clutch will drag and fry, if it isn't already fried.  Don't lose sleep over it.

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No. It will make it less fun to ride. Put it this way, you are going to have to put new clutch plates in at some point, and you might as well be the guy who does it. Plenty of videos on YouTube showing you exactly how. There are other possible reasons for your clutch plates to stick, including some mentioned above, or even a notched basket and/or hub. You won't be able to diagnose it until you get in there. Of course, you could take up some slack in the clutch cable to see if a little more pull would solve your problem. Just make sure you leave some free play (slack) or the clutch will drag and fry, if it isn't already fried. Don't lose sleep over it.

well it just randomly started working again. Maybe it was because it wasn't all the way warmed up?

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Why not do it ?  :lol:  it's 15 bolts tops and 20 minutes, you don't even have to drain the oil.  :facepalm:

You forgot to tell him to lay the bike down on it's side first before he attempts to do that without draining the oil.  Sounds like it'll be his first time, and he's scared shitless........ sorta like the first time with a girl.  Hehehehe.

Edited by Honda_Power
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I have seen this one a few times and it's good in many ways, except I do not agree with his decision not to use a proper torque wrench.  If the spec is 7 foot-pounds, you don't use a foot-pound wrench.  Use an inch-pound wrench and do it correctly.  7 foot-pounds = 84 inch pounds.  Same with the case bolts.  The easiest way to mess up your bike is to not use a torque wrench.  Even the Harbor Frieght cheap 1/4 inch wrench is excellent.  Well worth the investment.

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I have seen this one a few times and it's good in many ways, except I do not agree with his decision not to use a proper torque wrench. If the spec is 7 foot-pounds, you don't use a foot-pound wrench. Use an inch-pound wrench and do it correctly. 7 foot-pounds = 84 inch pounds. Same with the case bolts. The easiest way to mess up your bike is to not use a torque wrench. Even the Harbor Frieght cheap 1/4 inch wrench is excellent. Well worth the investment.

The shifting is working fine now... I'm guessing the oil was too thick and when it warmed up enough everything freed up and started working fine?

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The shifting is working fine now... I'm guessing the oil was too thick and when it warmed up enough everything freed up and started working fine?

Go fix it now before your transmission case explodes!!!!  Hahahahahaha, j/k. 

 

Shouldn't ruin your transmission or anything, if that is what you're soo worried about and can't sleep at night these few past days.  But really, you should get it taken care of as soon as possible.

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So when was the last time you changed the transmission oil?

just bought the bike yesterday

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just bought the bike yesterday

Ok, good call posting up here then.

Get yourself something, anything like engine oil or ATF. Dump the old, cruddy oil out of the trans and refill it with clean oil. It's not too picky on type.

Next time you ride, dump it again while it's hot. I bet you get a lot of metally gunk out of it for quite a few changes. People neglect the trans oil and the clutch eventually stops working right, just like yours is doing.

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Ok, good call posting up here then.

Get yourself something, anything like engine oil or ATF. Dump the old, cruddy oil out of the trans and refill it with clean oil. It's not too picky on type.

Next time you ride, dump it again while it's hot. I bet you get a lot of metally gunk out of it for quite a few changes. People neglect the trans oil and the clutch eventually stops working right, just like yours is doing.

thanks for the help, will do
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