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83 xl600

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Does any know if the valve cover removal requires engine removal? I have been looking it over and it looks like that might be necessary. It appears that even if i remove the mounting plates at the frame that there still may not be room for cover removal. I was just wondering if anyone has removed their valve cover without engine removal. Thanks

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Hi E.R.

I got my top cover off my XR by removing the upper mount, the valve adjustment caps & then loosened the bottom mounts a little. 

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You may have to unbolt all the motor mounts except the back one closest to the swingarm and unhook the exhaust so that you can rock the engine forward in the frame. This is not necessary on an xrl but it is on most older bikes. I am still undecided on if this is actually easier or faster than just pulling the motor.

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Hi ..... Does anyone know the full valve timing procedure for an xl600r (87) .... I bought a dog cracked head fried rings the works got a nice head ported and polished it ... It had just had a fresh skim done also. honed the cylinder out and have file fit 0.25 overs in there ..... the question is the proper valve timing..... it'll line up on the f marks but not on the actual t mark its either half a tooth back or half a tooth forward depending......also cam lobes up or down ?? I've viewed the honda service manuals and they are no help to be perfectly honest as I said it was a dog though not so much now. when taken apart the lobes were up and kinked forward on timing mark so that is how it's been reinstalled with presumed horrendous starting through low compression and the badly cracked head  but having said that the head was  undone with only 2 bolts pinched the cam sprocket was only held in by 1 bolt with the other only in by 2 threads so if it was all out i wouldn't be surprised.......... Either way anyone who can help on proper valve timing it would be much appreciated. thanks :-)  

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Hey all, I just joined the TT forum.

I recently pulled the motor out of my '83 XL600 (that is new to me and was not running). I laid the bike on its right side, slipped out the motor mount bolts and had the motor safely and easily on the floor. I installed the motor while bike was on its side and it went well.  

I found that the cam timing marks lined up a little late compared to flywheel mark. I went through the hassel of advancing the cam gear one tooth and then it was advanced way too far ahead. The auto adjuster was a bear to get back in. I made a device out of coat hanger wire to hold the spring under tension during installation, maybe there is a better way?

So I reset back to where it had been and decided that the cam is slightly retarded due to cam chain wear. I see new cam chain and all associated parts replacement in near future. The motor does sound a little rattlely.

I eventually solved the no start\run problem by removing the broken plastic carb isolator block to cure the massive air intake leak and rewinding the stator coil that feeds the CDI. The spark plug would show a spark out of the cylinder, but was not strong enough to fire under compression.

Now the motor starts and runs normally (following the correct starting drill of course). The problem had me going for a while, but I'm pretty happy to finally get her running. Now to address some of the minor issues like frayed cables etc etc...its a good thing I like working on my bikes! (probably like working on them as much as riding them.)

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DSCF9869_zpsbbf3f44b.jpg

here's a pic of the rewound stator coil before sealing with JB Weld. I was able to get 43 guage magnet wire from  online Main Electronics supply in Vancouver BC. It took about four hours for me to wind by hand ( I have never been accused of rushing my work) and it works perfectly. I thought I could always get a Ricky Stator if my experiment failed, but it worked! The spool of wire cost $38 Cdn. and I have enough left for a couple more stators.

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