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Engine oil or synthetic oil

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I got a few questions about what kind of oil to use for my 2011 250xcf. I've been using the recommended synthetic engine oil from the dealership for a few years now but have found its gets expensive. I was wondering if I am able to use a non synthetic engine oil and if so what engine oil is recommended. My buddy uses Rotella oil for his 2009 530xcf and was wondering if that's a good idea or not. Is synthetic used in dirt bikes just because it's a better quality oil and doesn't need to be changed as much or is it used because of the kind of clutch that is in the bike? If I do not have to use synthetic what band of oil can I get that's non synthetic but still good quality? Is Rotella a good idea? If so what weight if oil should I use too. Thanks

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Synthetic oil is better oil hands down no comparison needed. Crushed up black dinosaur bones are no match for technology . Running regular oil in your bike is fine and most 4t owners here do run rotella and some 2t owners run the rotella in their transmissions . As far as weight i don't know some run 5w-30 some run 10w-40 . 

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It's not the synthetic that's the problem, it's the additives that are used in auto synthetics. You don't want to use any oil that says "friction modifiers" in the API service label. I have always used Castrol Syntec Blend since it has none and is $6 a quart. Many of the $12 a quart motorcycle specific oils are a synthetic blend anyway. You want to use the weight specified in your manual, mine calls for 10W30 for most temps, 10W40 for hot temps. The best oil is the oil you change often.

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Would 0W40 be alright in a bike ?

You can in warm climates , i wouldn't run it in cold temps it would be like molasses at startup .  :thumbsup:

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Very few engine oils are true Group IV synthetics, like Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Most are  Group I-, II-, II+-, and III- mineral-base oil stocks with synthetic additives. I can almost guarantee you that a  manufacturer-branded "synthetic" oil from a dealership is just a Group II+ blend, meaning it's still dead dinosaurs, with some synthetic stuff added in to serve as viscosity improvers and other things.

 

Rotella T is a fine oil for our engines, and in fact will outlast a lot of so-called "synthetics" before it shears out of viscosity.

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You can in warm climates , i wouldn't run it in cold temps it would be like molasses at startup .  :thumbsup:

 

 

You have it backwards. An 0W-40 oil will flow like a 0 weight oil at 40C and like a 40 weight oil at 100C.

 

Essentially, a 0W-40 oil is a 0 weight oil with viscosity improvers (coiled up polymers) that expand and uncoil into long chains when heated and prevent it from thinning more than a 40 weight oil would at 100C.

Edited by Chokey
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Very few engine oils are true Group IV synthetics, like Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Most are  Group I-, II-, II+-, and III- mineral-base oil stocks with synthetic additives. I can almost guarantee you that a  manufacturer-branded "synthetic" oil from a dealership is just a Group II+ blend, meaning it's still dead dinosaurs, with some synthetic stuff added in to serve as viscosity improvers and other things.

 

Rotella T is a fine oil for our engines, and in fact will outlast a lot of so-called "synthetics" before it shears out of viscosity.

I think you Dumbed that down to much ?

I also think people make to much of the base stock debate  an verifying the basestock is a pain some say there are only a few true synthetics

and neither Castrol US not Mobil 1 is in that count 

 

I stopped caring about that long ago after getting oil analysis on My T6 and seeing it was doing it's job  

 

good thing I don't get involved in these Oil threads any more

 

 

oh wait  #$^&(#^^#%

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I think you Dumbed that down to much ?

I also think people make to much of the base stock debate  an verifying the basestock is a pain some say there are only a few true synthetics

and neither Castrol US not Mobil 1 is in that count 

 

I stopped caring about that long ago after getting oil analysis on My T6 and seeing it was doing it's job  

 

good thing I don't get involved in these Oil threads any more

 

 

oh wait  #$^&(#^^#%

 

 

Mobil 1 most certainly is a true Group IV synthetic, as is Amsoil. Castrol is not.

 

Yes, I dumbed it down. So? It made the point I was trying to make.

 

Yes, T6 performs very well in UOA testing, better than many much more expensive oils.

 

I don't have to worry about it because I ride a two-stroke and run Type F ATF in the tranny. :p

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You have it backwards. An 0W-40 oil will flow like a 0 weight oil at 40C and like a 40 weight oil at 100C.

 

Essentially, a 0W-40 oil is a 0 weight oil with viscosity improvers (coiled up polymers) that expand and uncoil into long chains when heated and prevent it from thinning more than a 40 weight oil would at 100C.

Sorry all i did get that backwards ,  :excuseme:  

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Would 0W40 be alright in a bike?

If you are thinking of Mobil 1 0W-40, don't if it will also be in the tranny.  Your clutch won't like it. :banghead:

 

Also the Mobil 1 0W-40 is at the thin end of the viscosity range for 0W-40 oils, so not as thick as the label might indicate.

Edited by Chuck.

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If you are thinking of Mobil 1 0W-40, don't if it will also be in the tranny. Your clutch won't like it. :banghead:

Also the Mobil 1 0W-40 is at the thin end of the viscosity range for 0W-40 oils, so not as thick as the label might indicate.

it's rotella t4

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Very few engine oils are true Group IV synthetics, like Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Most are  Group I-, II-, II+-, and III- mineral-base oil stocks with synthetic additives. I can almost guarantee you that a  manufacturer-branded "synthetic" oil from a dealership is just a Group II+ blend, meaning it's still dead dinosaurs, with some synthetic stuff added in to serve as viscosity improvers and other things.

 

Rotella T is a fine oil for our engines, and in fact will outlast a lot of so-called "synthetics" before it shears out of viscosity.

KTM told me to run Motorex 15W-50. I run Motorex 15W-50. I also run Motorex 2T oil and Motorex chain lube. If I'm going to be a sheep, I'm going to be the best damn sheep in the flock :thumbsup:

I'll bet you would want my bike if it was on CL :rolleyes:

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Mobil 1 most certainly is a true Group IV synthetic,

 

 

I wasn't calling you out on the base stock thing  as I believe it really doesn't matter anymore

but

can u back that up  it ?

Mobil won't even confirm it  and rumor has it they stopped  soon after the Castrol call out

  http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Group_3_Base_Oils.aspx

I hear some mobil is true syn base but not the usa mobil 1

Edited by Zimman

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An oil thread! I just....can't.....resist! Rotella is fine....either dino or full synth will work. Like many others have said in many other threads; changing it often is your best bet, no matter what you use.

My advice: do what gives you piece of mind.

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Yes brother, put engine oil or synthetic oil in the motor.  It is a really really good idea!

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