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New guy starting to mod my DRZ. Interesting findings so far!

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Hello everybody, i've been lurking and learning from all the great posts here and wanted to introduce myself and share some pics and info as i build my new year 2000 DRZ 400s. I'm an o.k. Mechanic and i can wrench my bicycles but i'm new to motorcycle stuff and thought i'd just dive in. My bike is a good looker, 2200 miles and stock except for taller bars and some handguards. First thing i did was get a bunch of stuff from the TT store and send it to the local shop to have the valves checked and the MCCT installed. Next is an IMS 3.2 and Raptor petcock and when i pulled the tank and the stock pc it looked like this, lol:

14vnqj5.jpg

I guess this is why my bike won't run wih "on" on the pc, onlr "reserve" since the tube is totally clogged. People with petcock issues might consider just cleaning it and the tank.

After the tank, i have the 3x3 and jd jet kit to install and i have a freshly rebuilt 2003 shock to install along with a swingarm bearing clean and grease. Already chopped off the mullet with the cool led tail-light too ;).

More pics to follow!

image.jpg

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the clogged portion of that is the "reserve" portion -

Looks to me like "On" is clogged at the top

Reserve is basically just a screen, which is still visible

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That looks like Stabil gunk to me (by the color of it)

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Welcome and happy modding!

 

It would be a good idea to check the screen on the valve seat in the carb for debris when you have it out for the re-jet. Just incase any of that crud from the tank made it past the petcock screens and into the carb.

It is #18 in this picture

ScreenShot2014-06-11at101608AM.png

 

Also I would highly recommend doing the loc-tite fixes while as well. They are all linked in this post under the "Preventative Maintenance Fixes" heading.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/939138-what-every-drz-needs-protection-reliability-fixes-common-maint/

 

 

 

 

Looks to me like "On" is clogged at the top

Reserve is basically just a screen, which is still visible

 

The screen on the "On" tube looks a lot cleaner than the "Reserve" tube...

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The screen on the "On" tube looks a lot cleaner than the "Reserve" tube...

Only because it's up higher lol. That tube is blocked.

+1 on the loctite fixes, but don't skimp and just do the easy one. Do the countershaft fix, then loctite the stator and starter clutch bolts, then loctite the primary nut and counterbalancer nut.

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Looks to me like "On" is clogged at the top

Reserve is basically just a screen, which is still visible

not sure what you are seeing there....they are both made of the same screen

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you know thats a solid brass tube, right?

not sure how to even reply to this.

after seeing that - i cant help but think you are pulling my leg.

My foot firmly in my mouth

Literally laughed out loud when I realized how stupid I just sounded

Edited by Gsxrstuntdrz
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Thanks for the info guys - i'll definitely check the internal screen for detritus. In the meantime, it's buttoned up and i'll ride it a bit before i start the rear suspension work. I REALLY like the switch from a blue to white tank, the IMS and Raptor petcock bolt right up and makes for an uber-clean install. I plugged the pc vacume at the carb with a cap from autozone as has been suggested on the forum. I get my shock tonight after its refresh and will install tomorrow.

291zty1.jpg

14kei61.jpg

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Thanks for the info guys - i'll definitely check the internal screen for detritus. In the meantime, it's buttoned up and i'll ride it a bit before i start the rear suspension work. I REALLY like the switch from a blue to white tank, the IMS and Raptor petcock bolt right up and makes for an uber-clean install. I plugged the pc vacume at the carb with a cap from autozone as has been suggested on the forum. I get my shock tonight after its refresh and will install tomorrow.

 

Looks good! The IMS is probably my favorite oversized aftermarket tank, the rest of them just look too big and bulky IMO. Be carful with the raptor petcock because the amount of reserve capacity is reduced compared to the factory petcock.

Edited by Wisconsinite762
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Hello everybody, i've been lurking and learning from all the great posts here and wanted to introduce myself and share some pics and info as i build my new year 2000 DRZ 400s. I'm an o.k. Mechanic and i can wrench my bicycles but i'm new to motorcycle stuff and thought i'd just dive in. My bike is a good looker, 2200 miles and stock except for taller bars and some handguards. First thing i did was get a bunch of stuff from the TT store and send it to the local shop to have the valves checked and the MCCT installed. Next is an IMS 3.2 and Raptor petcock and when i pulled the tank and the stock pc it looked like this, lol:

14vnqj5.jpg

I guess this is why my bike won't run wih "on" on the pc, onlr "reserve" since the tube is totally clogged. People with petcock issues might consider just cleaning it and the tank.

After the tank, i have the 3x3 and jd jet kit to install and i have a freshly rebuilt 2003 shock to install along with a swingarm bearing clean and grease. Already chopped off the mullet with the cool led tail-light too ;).

More pics to follow!

Do what you said but don't waste your money on other stuff like (extensive engine mods).  Do your suspension.

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Thanks for the info guys - i'll definitely check the internal screen for detritus. In the meantime, it's buttoned up and i'll ride it a bit before i start the rear suspension work. I REALLY like the switch from a blue to white tank, the IMS and Raptor petcock bolt right up and makes for an uber-clean install. I plugged the pc vacume at the carb with a cap from autozone as has been suggested on the forum. I get my shock tonight after its refresh and will install tomorrow.

291zty1.jpg

14kei61.jpg

When you go to replace your shock the bolts are very hard to get un done. Use a six point socket to prevent rounding off the bolt/nut. Apply the pressure to the nut only. A impact wrench driven by hammer or air will help a lot.

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I had trouble with several bolts but the one on the shock was not one of them, thank God!

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Looks good! The IMS is probably my favorite oversized aftermarket tank, the rest of them just look too big and bulky IMO. Be carful with the raptor petcock because the amount of reserve capacity is reduced compared to the factory petcock.

You can modify the petcock by installing the OEM tubes into the new petcock to maintain original reserve capacity. I did it. I pulled the stock tubes carefully and pulled the new p/c tubes out. I drilled out the p/c to fit the stock tubes then JB welded them into place. I let it dry for a full day before install. Worked great. :)

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Well, i couldn't get the swingarm pivot out so i'm gonna call in some reinforcements with heavy weapons (big hammer). In the meantime, my bike has been procreating in the garage as i now have a -400E as well to use as a doner bike. I'm going to use some of the parts and then part out the rest in the near future. I hope the carb, exhaust and suspension is worth all this trouble...

1z5smbr.jpg

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You could try soaking the gunked up petcock in pine sol overnight.

Stock Raptor petcock has about a quart reserve on a Clarke tank.

IMG_0640_zps1539dcba.jpg

Go to a hobby store and buy a stick of 9/32 and 5/16 brass tube. I got both for $5.00. Cut two pieces.

IMG_0641_zps039ce0ab.jpg

Slide the 5/16 over the stock Raptor tube and slide the 9/32 into that. Solder in place and adjust overall length to get the reserve you want. This gave me almost a gallon on reserve.

IMG_0642_zps91d4976b.jpg

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Joe, that's brilliant. I had resigned myself to having almost no reserve but that will be an easy and rewarding mod!

Cams will be swapped as well.

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