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What offset are you guys running? I have my suspension pretty much spot on but I still find that my front either pushes or tucks depending on the surface and my body language if I am pushing or if a rut is choppy. On flat corners and smooth ruts it is fine.

 

I've got the head shake sorted without the need for a stabilizer so I am hesitant to change offset and have it return. Anyone figured anything out? 

 

It is just really odd because the bike handles great in most situations, but I've hit the ground pretty hard a few times recently because of the front tucking or pushing causing high sides. 

 

Maybe this is just all mental?

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Its because you are cooking now! I have almost ate it a few times but I attribute it to the fact that I am hauling ass haha. I still have the head shake though....I need to go out on HS and really soften up the clickers.... I have a mental block with going softer on clickers but I know I have to keep going.

I have a friend with a 13 who went through the same thing you and I have gone through and basically he got it valved for his speed (Fast B) and he went out to 110mm sag and clicked it out so he gets rub marks on the fenders. He rails on it now.

What did you find with suspension? I bet your front end could use more adjustment..... Or back?

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Its because you are cooking now! I have almost ate it a few times but I attribute it to the fact that I am hauling ass haha. I still have the head shake though....I need to go out on HS and really soften up the clickers.... I have a mental block with going softer on clickers but I know I have to keep going.

I have a friend with a 13 who went through the same thing you and I have gone through and basically he got it valved for his speed (Fast B) and he went out to 110mm sag and clicked it out so he gets rub marks on the fenders. He rails on it now.

What did you find with suspension? I bet your front end could use more adjustment..... Or back?

IDK... its hard to differentiate at this point! I can rail a corner one lap, then next lap there will be a braking bump before or acceleration bumps at the apex and the front will "skip" and push or tuck. It works really well most of the time and my speed has improved greatly for that reason alone. The suspension works well enough that I still don't have any doubts about it. I usually have the problem late in the day when the track is really rough. 

 

At first I thought that maybe I needed to make some adjustments with clickers (specifically rebound) and even though I can feel the difference it really doesn't make a huge difference with my issue. That is really the only place that I am struggling is through the corners. It will be perfect all day one day, then next time I go out on the same track with the same conditions and it will feel like I am riding a bike without forks at all when I'm in the ruts. 

 

BTW: there are plenty of tire marks on my fenders. I'm at 108mm right now. The bike is handling really well everywhere except for rough deep ruts. Maybe I'm just leaning the bike over further than I used to? I'm gonna play with settings a little more tomorrow. Any suggestions on what I should focus on? 

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I would think fork rebound is the answer. Call me crazy but I wonder if you should experiment with sag again....

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I'm running stock I'm my 12 and ride engineering 20 mm on my 13 and my 13 definitely turns in quicker. Not that it needed to. Not sure about head shake cause both bikes have dampers. Definately feel more confident with the front end with the 20 mm. Hope that helps

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You say you have trouble with long deep ruts. Do you find that on the accelerating chop exiting the rut that the front pops up and out?

Yes... long sweeping ruts with acceleration bumps the front pushes out of the rut. In quick cut down/ cupped type ruts it tends to tuck. It just doesn't do it all the time so I didn't know how to fix it or if it was just me. 

 

If I can stay neutral on the bike, it never does it. 

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I would think fork rebound is the answer. Call me crazy but I wonder if you should experiment with sag again....

I have the rear so planted right now I am hesitant to change anything with the shock. Ill be out today for a bit... I will play with fork settings a little more. Maybe playing with fork height will help as well. 

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Yes... long sweeping ruts with acceleration bumps the front pushes out of the rut. In quick cut down/ cupped type ruts it tends to tuck. It just doesn't do it all the time so I didn't know how to fix it or if it was just me.

If I can stay neutral on the bike, it never does it.

the last statement screams rider learning curve Bdubb.

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the last statement screams rider learning curve Bdubb.

That is not always possible. There are times that I need to weight the front or the rear slightly to get the bike to track correctly in or out of the corner. I don't have this issue on any other bike. If it is a nice smooth rut I don't have the issue because I don't need to weight the front or rear much.

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Try dragging your front brake just a smidge. It will help keep your front tire down in those ruts

I do drag my brake in most ruts... 

 

It is something set up related, I don't have this issue with any of my other bikes. 

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Sounds more like a high speed compression issue with the forks. Could be shock. Shock should squat at apex of turn and stay fairly planted through acceleration out of turn. Playing with fork preload will definitely help. I ran fair amount of sag on my 450 and still do on the rmz250. I'm currently running a 3 stage base valve stack for a simar reason. I was getting a lot of high speed deflection and faster I would go it would literally bound the from end. After the face shims I put a 25x15 crossover and after 23 I put another crossover think a 16x15. The 20x at the end of stack are just spacers so I clamped to a 17x15 (I think). Sounds extreme but I run the oil a little higher now and can run the clickers in more. This makes the bleed of the clickers more active. Rebound will have greater effect on some of these issues. Not saying my stack is the answer,just saying sometimes gotta go outside the norm to get what you are after. Base valve is so quick and painless to adjust on these forks. Rod displaces a lot of fluid,so the base valve is more active on the sff fork. Is track dry or muddy? If you got video that is only way to really tell. I sit a go pro on section I have issues and watch what is going on. Helps so much.

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Got it figured out. Had a few of my buddies watch me "try" to hit a rut as fast as I could without crashing and they figured it out in short order. I ended up removing 5cc's of oil, dropped the forks 1mm in the clamps, and turned the HS 3 clicks in, rebound 2 clicks out. No more push or wash. 

 

Bike is back to working how it should again. I think if I get lazy I will have other issues though. 

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