Jump to content
USWE SPORTS ACTION HYDRO PACKS GIVEAWAYS!!! Read more... ×
Sign in to follow this  

Carb new jet installation - can I ship carb someplace?

Recommended Posts

It was recommended to me on this site to buy the jet upgrade to try to solve my problem of intermittent missing on my 2000 400s. I can get the carb off and put it back on without too much trouble, but I don't think I want to dig into tearing the carb itself apart. In my youth I might have tried it, but in my old age, I don't have the patience to find a lost ball or a frisky spring that disappears on the floor. Murphys law always catches me. Is there someplace I could fedex the carb to, along with the new jet kit, and pay someone to do the changeout for me? I assume I could just put the carb back on the bike and my problem will be gone...or will that be the start of other problems doing it this way? I'm hoping to save some labor costs by doing the grunt work myself and letting a pro do the intricate stuff. Any recommendations? Thanks for any input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It really isn't that hard to do yourself, the Mikuni BSR36 is a very simple carb compared to the Keihin FCR39.

 

This video walks you through the re-jet process, start at 3:40 the first part is just removing the carb from the DRZ.

 

Take your time and work in a clean well lit area. I did the re-jet on our kitchen table covered with a towel, that way if anything fell it would be easy to find it.

 

 

Just my 2 cents

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was recommended to me on this site to buy the jet upgrade to try to solve my problem of intermittent missing on my 2000 400s. I can get the carb off and put it back on without too much trouble, but I don't think I want to dig into tearing the carb itself apart. In my youth I might have tried it, but in my old age, I don't have the patience to find a lost ball or a frisky spring that disappears on the floor. Murphys law always catches me. Is there someplace I could fedex the carb to, along with the new jet kit, and pay someone to do the changeout for me? I assume I could just put the carb back on the bike and my problem will be gone...or will that be the start of other problems doing it this way? I'm hoping to save some labor costs by doing the grunt work myself and letting a pro do the intricate stuff. Any recommendations? Thanks for any input.

I felt the same way a you, but the people here on tt an the video that is linked on here really helped me feel comfortable doing it myself and it worked out perfectly. Also look it up on youtube. I believe the channel is motodoug. He has a great HD version of doing it an that also helped a ton. It is really 6 more screws after you get the carb out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is really 6 more screws after you get the carb out!

 

Agreed ^^^

 

Re-jetting the carb is 10 times easier than removing/installing it from the bike.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting the carb off the bike is by far the hardest part. The rest is very simple...the toughest part in jetting is the drilling but even that is easy if you use a depth collar on the bit. Hell, the hardest part for me was getting the damn throttle cables back on...I felt like I needed three hands :D

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting the carb off the bike is by far the hardest part. The rest is very simple...the toughest part in jetting is the drilling but even that is easy if you use a depth collar on the bit. Hell, the hardest part for me was getting the damn throttle cables back on...I felt like I needed three hands :D

Throttle Cables....... So True.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting the carb off the bike is by far the hardest part. The rest is very simple...the toughest part in jetting is the drilling but even that is easy if you use a depth collar on the bit. Hell, the hardest part for me was getting the damn throttle cables back on...I felt like I needed three hands :D

 

Agreed, getting the carb in / out is the hardest thing for me and I hate how it scratches up your frame doing it. Feels like the engineers could give us just another 1/2 inch of clearance to get that thing in and out. But at least once float bowls are changed and the pilot drilled out, you can change the clip and main jet without having to pull the carb.

 

As for the cables, they're a pain too, take needle nose plyers and pinch the cable about 1/2" from the bead, twist it with the plyers and pull the throttle open with the other hand, takes a bit of work but should slide right in. Make sure to do the back one first  :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the votes of confidence! I just read the install instructions and they say that the carb doesn't have to be removed. Just loosen collars on both sides, then turn the top out to do the needle, turn the bottom out to do the jets. Anyone do it this way? Did it work out?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the votes of confidence! I just read the install instructions and they say that the carb doesn't have to be removed. Just loosen collars on both sides, then turn the top out to do the needle, turn the bottom out to do the jets. Anyone do it this way? Did it work out?

You can do it that way if you have small hands. Since your carb hasn't been apart since 2000 I would just take it all the way off and give it a good cleaning while I was already there. Make sure to replace the float bowl screws with Allen heads

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it works that way but is difficult. I recommend that you pull the carb out so you can fully clean and inspect it. The float bowl screws are hard enough to get out and the float bowl valve needle should be checked. As well the ACV diaphram. Be careful of the little o-ring at the top of the carb. The needle holder in the slide can break easily too so having it in your hand on a bench or table helps a lot. For more room in dealing with removal and re install you can loosen and back up the sub frame and air box. Yes all of this is a pain but you learn some valuble lessons about your bike and carb. You own it now so you may as well get to know it intimately! Its a love/hate relationship.

 

Post up your elevation of where you live so we can help you select jets and needle from the kit. The JD Jetting instructions are very good to a point. Have you done the 3x3 mod? What kind of exhaust system are you using? Important to know when selecting the jets and needle position. The air fuel screw will need to be about 2.5 turns out from bottom. Do not over tighten the A/f screw to bottom. The tip can break off and cause you some serious headaches. Not trying to scare you but just make you aware of a few things...:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The needle can probably be changed easily without removing the carb, but to get to the jets requires removing the float bowl which if you haven't changed to the hex head bolts is going to be near impossible with the carb still in the frame. Not to mention drilling the extended air screw is going to be risky as well. Maybe on your 2nd time round after the bolts have been changed and the air screw swapped you can leave it in, but the first time, its a good idea to pull, clean it and fix it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the votes of confidence! I just read the install instructions and they say that the carb doesn't have to be removed. Just loosen collars on both sides, then turn the top out to do the needle, turn the bottom out to do the jets. Anyone do it this way? Did it work out?

 

 

+1 to what everyone else said.

 

Take it out of the bike for the first time, it is a lot easier to re-jet with it in your hands. 

 

I recommend the JD jet kit https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html and Extended Fuel Screw https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-DRZ400S-SM-Extended-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-p2006766350.html.

Edited by Wisconsinite762

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the votes of confidence! I just read the install instructions and they say that the carb doesn't have to be removed. Just loosen collars on both sides, then turn the top out to do the needle, turn the bottom out to do the jets. Anyone do it this way? Did it work out?

I do it that way, it works out fine, I only remove the carb when I have too.  After you turn the bottom out to do your jets tighten the clamps.  Use a heat gun on the float bowl screws, push hard & turn slowly.  Unless you get a JD jet kit do your self a favor & get socket head cap screws (allen heads).  Or just give me a PM & mail it to me, I'll do it for free.  :)

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do it that way, it works out fine, I only remove the carb when I have too.  After you turn the bottom out to do your jets tighten the clamps.  Use a heat gun on the float bowl screws, push hard & turn slowly.  Unless you get a JD jet kit do your self a favor & get socket head cap screws (allen heads).  Or just give me a PM & mail it to me, I'll do it for free.  :)

 

NICE!! :thumbsup:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking that someone should be close enough to help the guy out. We're a Brotherhood here! :thumbsup:

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This weekend, I am going to go for it on the motor. If I can't get the bowl screws off easily, I will pull the carb. I am at sea level and the directions say to use the blue needle on the third notch. I have a stock exhaust (the one on it was gutted and shortened, so loud it would wake the dead, too loud for my neighborhood!) I bought  a complete stock one off ebay. I did the 3x3 mod, then afterward found that a previous owner had drilled 10 or so 1/2 inch holes into the right side of the air box, behind the plastic on that side. So I guess I no longer have a 3x3 mod, more like a 13x13 mod! I put the stock 15 tooth front sprocket on it (had a 13), put on a windshield, a luggage rack, a box on the rack with a nice backrest, new handlebars from an ATV, handlebar risers, lowered the front forks about 2 inches, lowered the back about 1 inch via the shock adjustments (I can touch the bottoms of both feet on the ground now), new handgrips, new aceros black plastic (instead of white) so now it has black plastic, yellow fenders and tank, pulled both kill points (clutch lever and kickstand), got a new seat coming from a 2008 Kawasiki 650 XLR that I will modify to fit, new tires (80/20 duals)...ready for the road and maybe a fireroad, my hill climbing, scrambling, trail blazing, rooster tailing days are over...I need my fingers and arms to play in our bluegrass band!

Edited by EnduroDo
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This weekend, I am going to go for it on the motor. If I can't get the bowl screws off easily, I will pull the carb. I am at sea level and the directions say to use the blue needle on the third notch. I have a stock exhaust (the one on it was gutted and shortened, so loud it would wake the dead, too loud for my neighborhood!) I bought  a complete stock one off ebay. I did the 3x3 mod, then afterward found that a previous owner had drilled 10 or so 1/2 inch holes into the right side of the air box, behind the plastic on that side. So I guess I no longer have a 3x3 mod, more like a 13x13 mod! I put the stock 15 tooth front sprocket on it (had a 13), put on a windshield, a luggage rack, a box on the rack with a nice backrest, new handlebars from an ATV, handlebar risers, lowered the front forks about 2 inches, lowered the back about 1 inch via the shock adjustments (I can touch the bottoms of both feet on the ground now), new handgrips, new aceros black plastic (instead of white) so now it has black plastic, yellow fenders and tank, pulled both kill points (clutch lever and kickstand), got a new seat coming from a 2008 Kawasiki 650 XLR that I will modify to fit, new tires (80/20 duals)...ready for the road and maybe a fireroad, my hill climbing, scrambling, trail blazing, rooster tailing days are over...I need my fingers and arms to play in our bluegrass band!

 

You are just jumping right in with all the mods!!

 

I suggest you tape up the holes on the side of the air box and leave the 3x3 hole on the top. Otherwise the recommended jetting will not be correct and you will have to do some trial and error with the jetting.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the jd jet kit without removing the carb but it wasnt easy. There wasnt alot of room to turn the carb side ways much. Since my bike was new I wasnt worried about having to clean the carb. Drilling out the brass plug easnt wasn't easy and I made the mistake not to get the extended fuel screw. All said and done it wasnt to difficult but if I had to do it agaim I probably would have just removed the carb. And as otherss had said the 3x3 is recommended to make jetting easier. I used a torch and razor blade to melt/cut the 3x3 so I didn't get plastic pieces everywhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I got the jet kit installed without removing the carb. I did have to remove the ACCT and the black box that looked like some kind of air pollution device. I loosened collars on both ends, moved a few wires and was able to tilt the bottom out so I could install the new jets, drill the plug out, install the new extended fuel mixture screw  then tilt the top out and install the new needle . But this fix did not get rid of my problem as expected. It runs strong on acceleration as usual, but still, at an even rpm, say 40 mph, the engine has a small stumble. I guess the next thing to try will be to replace the stator, as one poster said fixed the problem for him.

 

I also found that I cannot use the Yamaha petcock that was suggested to use instead of the vacuum petcock. The stock one has the fuel line out the bottom of the petcock. The Yamaha one has the fuel line out the right side of the petcock, and it runs right into the choke. I tried various configurations of the fuel line, but could not get one that I was comfortable with. The fuel line either ran behind the choke, which interfered with its operation, or it ran above and around the choke, which took the fuel line above the bottom of the gas tank, or it was in front of the choke and that interfered with using the choke. Is there a Yamaha petcock that has the fuel line out the bottom or the left side? I can't imagine anyone using this one without ending up with a weird fuel line routing.

 

Maybe my problem is in the faulty petcock? (it trickles alot of gas in the run and reserve position). I'm thinking that when accelerating, there is a stronger vacuum to pull gas from the tank, but at a steady lower rpm, the vacuum is not so strong and is causing trouble getting fuel to the carb? I was hoping that Yamaha petcock would answer this question, but now I am thinking about just getting a new stock petcock.

 

I'm getting close to throwing in the towel and getting another bike...

Edited by EnduroDo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×