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2009 wr250f throttle bog

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I know this has been covered but for some reason tonight I can't find what I need.

I have a 2009 wr250f p.o had the dealer uncork it before he picked it up.

They did the wire mod, removed air box snorkel, gytr ais removal kit, and gutted the exhaust.

Bike runs amazing and I have zero complaints except if I try to just open the bike up from a stand still it bogs down. My understanding is because it needs the o ring mod? Or does it need a different size leak jet? Or does it need both? Bike runs good I just would like some more snap when I'm on the trail without having to use the clutch. I believe the dealer re jetted the bike as well but I know the o ring mod was not done and unsure if the leak jet was changed

Edit: just looked through the paper work the p.o kept receipts for everything. The dealer put in a 168 main jet and a 45 pilot jet that was all for jetting

Edited by Goobersbro

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I have a 2012.. same bike...i did the same mods...only differ is i used the JD jets/needle insted of the ones that came with the gytr AIS kit... jd uses 180main and a 60 leak jet with o-ring mod, fuel screw 2.25 turns out from lightly seated...bike feels like it has fuel injection :)

I recall the gytr AIS kit came with a 165 main and a 90 leak jet and a silver aluminum needle...stock needle is brass with only one clip slot

Edited by DeafRider250

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If the needle that came with the GYTR AIS Removal Kit isn't in there but the stock needle is, I wouldn't expect it to run as it should.

If the bike runs fine out on the trail but bogs only when whacking the throttle open quickly while sitting in neutral, that's not uncommon.

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Go ahead and do the O-Ring mod. It's cheap and easy. If it doesn't work you're not out much time or money.

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Okay sounds like a plan I'll go pick up an o ring today. The stock brass needle with only one clip is in the parts bag I have so I can only assume they put in the one that came with the kit.

Thanks guys

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Well just did the o ring mod and honestly can't tell a difference if I crack the throttle I still get a bog. If I roll on just a little slower or clutch into it there is zero bog.

Maybe I'm just too use to fuel injection lol

If it's normal it doesn't bother me and I'll just get use to it

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For sure the stock leak jet needs to go. It needs to be a 55 or 60 ( yz spec) I'm surprised that's not part of the kit?

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Yea each carb will have a lil fib... its the nature of how a carb works...cant tune a bike on a bucket, gotta go out and play with differ settings...try a 60 leak jet and make sure the AP timing is also set to .1" from the black arm to the washer on the bottom of the AP adjustmant screw... i found mine was almost twice as big as the lil metal timing doodad that came with my quickshot3...

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Yea each carb will have a lil fib... its the nature of how a carb works...cant tune a bike on a bucket, gotta go out and play with differ settings...try a 60 leak jet and make sure the AP timing is also set to .1" from the black arm to the washer on the bottom of the AP adjustmant screw... i found mine was almost twice as big as the lil metal timing doodad that came with my quickshot3...

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Personally, I'd have that carburetor off for a cleaning and inspection as I'd want to be sure the accelerator pump nozzle in not clogged.

I'd also want to see exactly what's in there for myself.

I assume your air filter is freshly serviced.

 

A smaller (yes, smaller number) leak jet very well may be needed if you want a stronger accelerator pump squirt.

 

I rode a 2009 WR-250F for two years every weekend and after I installed the GYTR AIS Removal Kit with all of the other usual "free mods" AND a smaller leak jet (I believe I used a #70) AND the O-ring mod AND perfectly cleaned the carburetor (I bought mine used, too), all was well with throttle response and how the bike ran out on the trails.

 

Just remember this:

The bike will never rear up like a 450 from idle RPM.

It should have some usable low end power and pull forward when you open the throttle, but not with as much force at low RPM.

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I'll throw a 60 leak jet in there and see where that gets me thank you guys for all of the replys

As for the air filter yes it's a brand new pre oiled no toil

The bike was sold new in mid 2011 and has only a couple of rides on it. Original tires still had the little black things on it when I bought it and p.o had all services done at the dealer and receipts to show.

Edited by Goobersbro

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Just one comment for you.  You might also try another mod for free.  If your needle has another adjustment notch in it, you might drop it 1 clip position just as a test to see if its a rich bog you're getting. 

 

I was having a bog off bottom end, throwing my timing off on blipping over obsticles and stuff.  Well nothing I changed helped until I dropped the needle 1 clip position.  All it will cost is a little time.

Edited by ronbuell

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So I just replaced the factory #90 leak jet with a #40

I also bought an air mixture adjustable screw.

My old air mixture was a 1 and 1/4 turns out I set the current setting at 2 1/4 out and kicked up my idle accordingly.

Bike runs perfect now no more bog on the bottom smells a little richer but runs way way better.

I can go wot and loop the bike now just sitting at idle:)

Edited by Goobersbro
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So guys. I am noticing the same thing on my 13'. I'm new to 4T, but familiar with general jetting. About to do the free mods, and I gotta say, this thing is a turd right now. (Hoping for a grin instead of a frown next time I crack the throttle) So anyways. I won't be getting an aftermarket exhaust for awhile, but will take out the baffle. I will do grey wire/airbox/rejet/ and AIS removal. Seems that a good combo is the GYTR AIS kit, and JD jetting. That should come with all necessary needles and jets for the modding process I think. My one question is as you guys go through different leak jet sizes and

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