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when bike gets hot it startys to flame out and then takes 3 to 6 kicks to start. just adjusted valves.i was told that my map was to rich so i put a leaner map in now it runs even worse. anybody know what could cause this

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Have you tried turning the idle up?

Edited by Rotaholic

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sorry not to be rude but I am not even going to answer that. I have been chasing this problem for about a year now. As soon as I connected autotune bike started running bad,finally when I was in mesquite I contacted power commander for the 20th time and they added update firmware and I put a rich map from eddie on and it started working good. As soon as I got it back to b.c it would run fine but flame out and overheat extremely quick so I tried the lean map that eddie gave me and installed auto tune again and it ran good,as soon as I excepted trims it started sputtering again so much I can not even ride it. I disconnected autotune and installed eddies map again and still is running bad. Every time I hook up the auto tune this seems to happen. I don't know if autotune has anything to do with this but so far I wasted 250 on autotune. wanted this to work because I might get a track kit for bike this winter and need autotune for this

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Rot made a very good suggestion... why would you not answer him? It is a simple yes or no answer... where is your idle set? The RMZ needs to idle higher than any other bike I have ridden to reduce flame out. 

 

You can get advanced as you want with your hardware and fuel delivery but it won't help if the thing doesn't have a high enough idle to burn off excess fuel. The ECU over rides the coupler once flame occurs anyways.

 

What changes did Eddie make to ignition? I just had mine remapped and if I remember correctly he advanced timing almost 7-17% in all areas. 

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I have my idle set higher because of revloc clutch between 2500 and 2700. I played with idle so much so that it would not turn anymore. I didnt answer because it sounded insulting . have had power commander tech hook up to my computer nd bike many times and they never said anything about idle ,just started flaming out when I got back from states where it ran good, but i am in very tight woods riding and building trail for upcoming race overheating a lot and like i said it is worse when bike is hot. Eddie never touched timing just map. You cant adjust timing at least on my power commander.Now it is not just flaming out it is sputtering so bad ever since I played with aautotune again, I have even disconnected it and tried different maps and still running bad. I thought I had it figured out to bad firmware but now I am lost again

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I don't think he was trying to insult... a lot of people don't know that idle needs to be set so high. Myself included.

 

It almost sounds like a fuel delivery issue or possibly an electrical problem. Unless your PC or auto tune has some sort of glitch I doubt that is the problem considering it ran well before. 

 

Have you checked out the wiring harness? Seen recently a few guys have had wires that were rubbing the frame causing similar issues that you are describing. Another thing that keeps popping into mind is the sensor for your autotune, but you said you tried disconnecting and uploading other maps.

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you mean the 02 sensor, when I first connected the autotune last it seem to run fine and when I looked at trim values I was within -10 as soon as I excepted the trrims that is when it started running bad,this is when I disconnected and tried to upload same map and now running bad again. I have went through all the wires cannot seem to see anything. the power commander and autotune were sent to powercommander and they said they were fine. I think to it is an electical but seems wierd everytime i try auto tune this is what happens.

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Have you tried disconnecting the PC5 and running the bike stock to see if the bike will flameout in stock trim, im sure you have, but that could help eliminate a lot of things, fuel pump, TPS, O2 sensor etc. Only thing I can suggest is mapping with the laptop in realtime on a dyno, trying to recreate the flameout and then using snap shots logged of the data and working backwards from there.

Have you reset the TPS?

Edited by Rotaholic

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Have you tried disconnecting the PC5 and running the bike stock to see if the bike will flameout in stock trim, im sure you have, but that could help eliminate a lot of things, fuel pump, TPS, O2 sensor etc. Only thing I can suggest is mapping with the laptop in realtime on a dyno, trying to recreate the flameout and then using snap shots logged of the data and working backwards from there.

Have you reset the TPS?

That was my next suggestion... TPS.  even on a dyno it will be hard to source the issue. The only thing that will help with is finding out exactly where the flame out is occurring.

 

Is it worse at any point or better at any point or is it just bad all the time? 

Edited by BDubb106

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flaming out usually only happens when bike is hot like about to overheat hot. I have tested every sensor and replaced most. I through 1500 at this last year on fuel pump stator,sensors,tried different ecu had injector checked and cleaned,put new piston in,repacked exhaust,but got the bike running good with rich map but that is when it started flaming out,talked to a mechanic and he suggested leaner map because the bike is running to rich. When I tried this and autotune this is when bike started acting up again,sputtering so bad I can barely even ride it,it sputters down low and when yo give it a lot of gas it goes away. The problem is,this is where I do all my riding at that rpm range. Wanted to stay away from dyno that is why I bought autotune

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Like rotaholic said, try the stock ecu to see if runs the same or different. That will tell you if its a map issue or sometbing else

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Zero out the map below 3500 rpm. The auto tune doesn't work well at low rpm, so accepting the trims might have goofed it over the edge. Thats how I cured my flame out with the same setup

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I have checked tps and it is within,I am going to take it out this weekend and take off power commander completely put a new plug in and check kill switch.

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so it is the power commander as suspected. Its going back to power commander for the second time to see if they can find anything this time,so frustrated with power commander at this point,never been able to use autotune at all and have had them hooked up to the bike at least 3 times saying it is fine. feels like I wasted almost 700 on this system should of went with a pim 2 i guess

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Thanks for getting back with the answer. Hopefully you get it sorted soon :thumbsup:

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so it is the power commander as suspected. Its going back to power commander for the second time to see if they can find anything this time,so frustrated with power commander at this point,never been able to use autotune at all and have had them hooked up to the bike at least 3 times saying it is fine. feels like I wasted almost 700 on this system should of went with a pim 2 i guess

You could always sell the PC and spend $50 to have your stock ECU remapped. I ditched the PIM2 because the results of having the stock ECU remapped were so much better. 

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ya I was actually thinking of sending it to moto lab. Trying to sell both units no bites yet but they are going to power commander again to get looked at and fixed. The main reason i wanted to use autotune was snow bike, you can t get them up to temp so it just starts dumping fuel, a lot of guys just let there bikes idle for some time to get temps up but most guys run an auto tune of some type so the bike is always running the right fuel. At this point i think i will just let bike idle for a while sometimes to get temp up..

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ya I was actually thinking of sending it to moto lab. Trying to sell both units no bites yet but they are going to power commander again to get looked at and fixed. The main reason i wanted to use autotune was snow bike, you can t get them up to temp so it just starts dumping fuel, a lot of guys just let there bikes idle for some time to get temps up but most guys run an auto tune of some type so the bike is always running the right fuel. At this point i think i will just let bike idle for a while sometimes to get temp up..

Yea... the auto tune is a must have in those conditions. I didn't realize you were going to use it for a snow bike. I would get it figured out just for that reason alone. 

 

However I sent my ECU to Moto Lab and it has been one of the best mods I have done to the bike to this day. 

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