Should I buy an aftermarket clutch basket?

[keenxxx]

Recently purchased a 2007 Yamaha WR250f w/ only 10 hours.. Clutch drags horribly. I have read 100's of posts about crappy YZ / WR clutch action. I am replacing the clutch fibers & plates even though everything looks new. I found a screaming deal on a Wiseco basket. Will the new basket give any better clutch action or improve the oiling? Thanks.

[The Spanky]

If you really want to improve action and oiling, get a Barnett basket. The stainless inserts provide a harder smoother surface for the plate tabs to slide across.

I also like the design and feel of the Barnett plates.

[keenxxx]

If you really want to improve action and oiling, get a Barnett basket. The stainless inserts provide a harder smoother surface for the plate tabs to slide across.

I also like the design and feel of the Barnett plates.

 

 What improves the action on a Barnett vs. a new Wiseco? I would think they would work the same until notching took place. How does the improved oil take place. Thanks.

[The Spanky]

The Barnett uses stainless steel inserts where the plate tabs slide against it. The Hinson is just aluminum, just like the stocker.

Both improve oiling versus OEM in my opinion.

[BazookaJoe]

Actually, the Hinson (and Moose and Wiseco) baskets are also made of aluminum. However, they are machined from billet (solid chunk) of aluminum, whereas a stock basket is from die cast aluminum. In addition, these baskets are hard anodized, which is a surface treatment which is much harder and more slippery that the stock basket.

But, remember that the basket does not perform the oiling operation. The oil flows from within the inner drum.

The clutch drag typically comes from a sticky build-up on the surface of the clutch fiber plates, causing them to drag against the steel plates. This sticky goo can be caused by timid riding, poor quality oil, or from plates not being properly soaked in oil before use. Sometimes, just changing the oil will help, as will a bit of getting on the power to warm up the clutch. Or, you can try cleaning the plates, but usually, the best solution is a new set of fiber plates.

[tylerb137]

I'd start by ordering plates and fibers. Take the clutch apart and check out your basket. If its grooved id grab that wiseco basket. If yours isn't grooved, or is only slightly grooved id just put the new plates and fibers in and see what it does!

[Hans Schmid]

Can we see a picture of the said basket? I don't recall reading a single thread on bad clutch drag on any Yamaha...

[keenxxx]

Can we see a picture of the said basket? I don't recall reading a single thread on bad clutch drag on any Yamaha.

 

Ha Ha very funny. Pic's anyways. The marks on the hub and basket can't be felt... just rub marks. Bike has less than 10 hours of use.

Edited June 15, 2014 by keenxxx

[keenxxx]

Actually, the Hinson (and Moose and Wiseco) baskets are also made of aluminum. However, they are machined from billet (solid chunk) of aluminum, whereas a stock basket is from die cast aluminum. In addition, these baskets are hard anodized, which is a surface treatment which is much harder and more slippery that the stock basket.

But, remember that the basket does not perform the oiling operation. The oil flows from within the inner drum.

The clutch drag typically comes from a sticky build-up on the surface of the clutch fiber plates, causing them to drag against the steel plates. This sticky goo can be caused by timid riding, poor quality oil, or from plates not being properly soaked in oil before use. Sometimes, just changing the oil will help, as will a bit of getting on the power to warm up the clutch. Or, you can try cleaning the plates, but usually, the best solution is a new set of fiber plates.Can we see a picture of the said basket? I don't recall reading a single thread on bad clutch drag on any Yamaha.

 I went ahead and purchased new Wiseco plates & frictions. The frictions are CRF250R but were recommended. The original owner was running Amsoil synthetic. I replaced the oil w/ Havoline 10w/40 wet clutch oil and already tried removing the Judder spring.

[Hans Schmid]

Nothing wrong with that basket...

[Hans Schmid]

And can you link 5 threads about Yamaha clutch action being horrible that have nothing to do with operator error or lack of maintaince?

[BazookaJoe]

Don't forget to link a few of those moron "washer trick" threads too. LOL

I can verify this though- If you want your clutch pull to be lighter on the 2009 and older, swap to the 2010 and newer clutch actuator arm. It is machined different down on the business end for better action. A guy is selling them on fleaBay for about $20 with free shipping. I put the newer arm on my 07 WR250F and the pull up on the clutch lever is definitely lighter.

Edited June 16, 2014 by BazookaJoe

[keenxxx]

Don't forget to link a few of those moron "washer trick" threads too. LOL

I can verify this though- If you want your clutch pull to be lighter on the 2009 and older, swap to the 2010 and newer clutch actuator arm. It is machined different down on the business end for better action. A guy is selling them on fleaBay for about $20 with free shipping. I put the newer arm on my 07 WR250F and the pull up on the clutch lever is definitely lighter.

I know extending the actuator arm length (Thumperfaq has this old mod listed) will decrease lever effort but in turn will lessen cable pull. Less pull may equal more drag. I looked @ the pic's of the 2010 actuator and the push rod slot is different than other years. Are the actuator arms the same length? Notice any other differences?

[BazookaJoe]

Welding an extension on the old arms did increase the leverage, but, yes, it reduced the amount of movement at the clutch basket and that could create more clutch drag. My opinion though, is that if you have clutch plate drag, opening the clutch basket a bit further is probably not going to change things a great deal- if the plates are gooed to the steel plates, it's going to drag.

The 2010 actuator is indeed machined quite differently on the portion which contacts the push rod internally. The new part dropped right into my 07 WR250F, with proper installation procedure of course. The arm appears to be the same length as the old part.

My WR's story is that its previous owner was a retard who had done the stupid clutch "tricks" like washers and welding the extension on the actuator arm (and also other stupid stuff on the rest of the bike, but that's another story). I returned the arm to stock length but my welding job wasn't too pretty and it looked like crap so I wanted to get a shiny new actuator. I installed the new actuator arm for two reasons: 1) My old arm looked like crap, and 2) to see if the newer arm would lighten the lever pull to be like my '12 YZ250F.

Of course, the new arm is shiny, and the lever pull is actually a little bit less than my '12 YZ250F- maybe the WR has lighter clutch springs? I didn't notice any difference in clutch drag, but my WR doesn't really have a dragging issue either.

I didn't take any pictures nor took any measurements of clutch movement nor measured force at clutch lever.

Edited June 16, 2014 by BazookaJoe

[Charlie755]

I personally have never had one issue with my stock clutch assembly. That being said once the stock clutch basket is worn I like to replace it with the Wiseco basket. I ran one my sons race bikes and we used it on 4 different bikes before it started to fail. That was about 250 hours of an intermediate/pro rider riding the bike.