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Rear wheel bearing change

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Problem! I just changed the pair of bearings on the back wheel of my 2014 crf450r. The toothed alloy ring holding one bearing on was jammed so I had to take it to the dealer to remove it as I didn't have the special tool. When they returned it they did not replace the ring and said that it wasn't necessary.

I'm not too sure .... Anyone any ideas?

One other thing, this bike has only about 60 hours and I was surprised that the wheel bearing had worn so quick. When dismantling, I found the rubber seal was a half inch away from the bearing and in between it was caked with dirt. Must have not been driven home at the factory. This might be worth checking for other owners before the bearings go.

Edited by MICKEYMAC

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Anyone any ideas, dealer hasn't got ring in yet and it's a shame the bike is idle?

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Are you talking about the screwed-in bearing retainer ring on the brake rotor side of the rear wheel? If so, of course it's necessary, it locks the bearings in place!!! And the seal fits inside of it!!! If a dealer told me it wasn't necessary they'd have to call me an ambulance because I would have laughed my ass off.

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The dealer service dept's  here in the LA/OC area are a complete joke. Fricken clueless donkeys hacking away with craftsman tools. I learned that the hard way. Only good thing about it all was it landed me here

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Hopefully they didn't bung the hub threads up!!! Ruining the lock is ok as it's easily replaced. Issue is the factory peens it into place, so you need to mildly grind away the peens and it comes out with a screwdriver, like setting the headset bearing tightness. Then, when re-installing, use a little bit of low-strength low-temp thread locker on it to keep it retained vs re-peening it.

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Hopefully they didn't bung the hub threads up!!! Ruining the lock is ok as it's easily replaced. Issue is the factory peens it into place, so you need to mildly grind away the peens and it comes out with a screwdriver, like setting the headset bearing tightness. Then, when re-installing, use a little bit of low-strength low-temp thread locker on it to keep it retained vs re-peening it.

 

Using a small drill bit always worked good for removing the peens. As for the threads you can salvage them with a bottom tap of the same pitch. I learned that the hard way

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They did destroy the ring, they told me that it was so tight that they had to use heat and chisel it out. I'm guessing now that they didn't know about the peens. The thread is damaged but I can fix it.

Thank you all.

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And your hub likely has been locally annealed soft due to the heating... Idiots.

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The last and only time I used a dealer for engine work they told me I needed a new cam, which I did not do, then the said I needed a new carb, which I did not do. I had put a used carb on my bike just before taking it to them. Because and it was hard to start, spitting fire, pipe glowing red I took it to the dealer...They got it to kinda run by jetting it so rich and backing out the pilot screw so far that it fell out with 100yds of riding it. Oh and they put a new kill switch on the bike and said that was the problem. Charged me 300.00. I took it to another dealer and they said the same thing, need a new carb and charge me 80.00.

 

I went home and I got on the interenet and found this place. Guess what I found right there in the FAQ's...the vacuum plate was upside down. I fixed it myself and vowed never to let a Honda dealer touch my shit again. I got the manual, searched and read this place for hours upon hours upon hours and realized these things are pretty easy to work on and started doing mods. F*** those Honda dealers

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