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Help! I'm stranded and the bike won't start.

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Just rode for an hour. Stopped to let the bike cool while I got some lunch. It's still hot and now it won't start. It did this yesterday too. Bike won't start when hot. I'm going to let it completely cool before I try again but when I press the starter the bike just clicks quickly and doesn't turn over. I've got a 2006 drz sm. Went through and did the free power mod and everything checked out. Was able to start it multiple times while in the garage.

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If the clicking sound comes from the right side panel under the seat it's the starter relay. Does this when the battery is low on charge.

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Just rode for an hour. Stopped to let the bike cool while I got some lunch. It's still hot and now it won't start. It did this yesterday too. Bike won't start when hot. I'm going to let it completely cool before I try again but when I press the starter the bike just clicks quickly and doesn't turn over. I've got a 2006 drz sm. Went through and did the free power mod and everything checked out. Was able to start it multiple times while in the garage.

if I was "stranded" I would put it in second gear, pull the clutch in, run next to the bike,

Hop on and bump start it. If that doesn't work try 3rd gear.

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Okay with the help of someone I got it bump started and rode it home. As soon as I hit the kill switch the dash went blank and the headlight shut off. The only light left on was the neutral light. The battery is now completely dead.

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Okay with the help of someone I got it bump started and rode it home. As soon as I hit the kill switch the dash went blank and the headlight shut off. The only light left on was the neutral light. The battery is now completely dead.

Replace battery and do the stator tests in the FAQ, stator might be fried

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I've got it on the charger now. Shouldn't be too much longer and I'll be able to test the stator. Tried to find a battery on Sunday. That's difficult down here in Ft Lauderdale.

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if I was "stranded" I would put it in second gear, pull the clutch in, run next to the bike,

Hop on and bump start it. If that doesn't work try 3rd gear.

Just curious why you would use 2nd or 3rd gear for bump starting. I've only ever done it in 1st and assumed it would only work in 1st.

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Just curious why you would use 2nd or 3rd gear for bump starting. I've only ever done it in 1st and assumed it would only work in 1st.

motor turns over much easier, off road I have to use 2nd or 3rd or the back tire just locks up. I imagine if your a bigger guy 1st is fine

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I've got it on the charger now. Shouldn't be too much longer and I'll be able to test the stator. Tried to find a battery on Sunday. That's difficult down here in Ft Lauderdale.

 

if you have a walmart, there are batteries there. it will be fine for a couple of YEARS with those cheap $35 walmart batteries, so long as your stator isn't fried. 

 

do the stator tests when it's charged. 

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if you have a walmart, there are batteries there. it will be fine for a couple of YEARS with those cheap $35 walmart batteries, so long as your stator isn't fried. 

 

do the stator tests when it's charged. 

WalMart batteries are not $35 bucks,  they cost more,  and they wont fit,  the smallest one they carry is too big to fit in the drz's battery compartment,  i tried.

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  1. Cycle Gear Lauderhill
  2. Address: 4834 N University Dr, Lauderhill, FL 33351
     
  3. Competition Cycle Center
  4. Address: 1001 Old Griffin Rd, Dania Beach, FL 33004
     

 

Edited by Arctic Pride

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Ended up at the cycle gear in Lauderhill. New battery in. Started right up. All checks done from the thread. One check failed and that was the high idle voltage. I could only get the voltage up to 13.7 and it is 13.4 at idle. Continuity and resistance checks all looked good. All connections are clean and in good order.

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The difference between 13.4 and 13.7 isn't all that important. The important part is that is marginally enough voltage to charge the battery. However.... have you done the Free Power Mod? It's far simpler than it would first appear to be and boosted my battery voltage to over 14V.

Edited by shuswap1

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I've done the free power mod. I am nervous to take the bike out for a ride because I don't know if the stator is making enough power to charge the battery. 13.4 at idle and 13.7 at high idle. 3k or so rpm. It isn't a huge difference but it does increase slightly with increased rpm.

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Voltage usually increases with RPM, but only to a point, then decreases slightly as the rpm moves higher.

FWIW, 13.4 will charge a battery. If you have access to a clamp-style amp meter you can see the flow into the battery. Remember, your bat is fully charged, so it doesn't need much from the charging system

Edited by shuswap1

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I just got back from a 30 min ride. Checked the charge on the battery and it's at 13. Could a completely shot battery be the cause of my issues before? I don't know what other conclusions to draw here.

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A shot battery could be the cause, too bad you weren't able to read the voltage when it was just 'clicking'...before the battery was changed.

How does the bike start when hot now?

Did you check the voltage with the key on...off....engine running? What were the circumstances when you read 13volts? Is the volt meter reasonable digital quality?

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I was able to restart it after I shut it down. Started right up. Even went back and checked the voltage now. 12.8 lights on motor off. 13 lights off motor off.

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