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Valve job? Or Machine work on the head?

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What does it mean when you cant even get a feeler gauge between the cam lobe and bucket? Like not even the thinnest size! I know the valves are WAY too far out of adjustment, but would a shim fix that? Or is that too drastic and need the seats recut?

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It all depends on what shims are in there now. I was doing a valve adjustment on my buddy's crf250r a couple weeks ago and couldn't get the thinnest feeler between the rocker and exhaust valves or with the cam lobe and intake buckets. I pulled the cam off to reveal there were ZERO shims under the buckets or exhaust rocker. Now as valves/heads wear you generally need to go thinner on shims to compensate for that wear, so when there are no shims that is a pretty good indication you need a full head job. If you still have shims and can get the proper clearance with smaller shims then you're probably safe with shimming, but if there is no room left to shim then your head is pretty much toast. 

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What does it mean when you cant even get a feeler gauge between the cam lobe and bucket? Like not even the thinnest size! I know the valves are WAY too far out of adjustment, but would a shim fix that? Or is that too drastic and need the seats recut?

When was the last time you checked the clearances? Are all your valves like this or just the intakes? Make sure you have the motor set at top dead center correctly and its ice cold when your checking clearances. Its usually not a good sign when the valve zeros out as it has driven itself into the head. 

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Well my ex is in spec but at tight end.Probably 30 hrs on bike.I wonder how long it stays in spec?

Inlet is in middle of spec.Board and waiting for injury to heal.lol

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That tolerance gets tighter with wear. Judging from your post I suspect you haven't re-shimmed before so most likely you can get thinner shims to make them spec.

That tolerance gets tighter with wear. Judging from your post I suspect you haven't re-shimmed before so most likely you can get thinner shims to make them spec.

bought the bike used. I havent checked them before

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When was the last time you checked the clearances? Are all your valves like this or just the intakes? Make sure you have the motor set at top dead center correctly and its ice cold when your checking clearances. Its usually not a good sign when the valve zeros out as it has driven itself into the head.

i havent checked them before. I bought the bike used and i put about 35 hours on it. Motor is top dead center and cold. I checked with the smallest size on a feeler gague set. Couldnt even get that in there.

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When was the last time you checked the clearances? Are all your valves like this or just the intakes? Make sure you have the motor set at top dead center correctly and its ice cold when your checking clearances. Its usually not a good sign when the valve zeros out as it has driven itself into the head.

oh, and yeah its only the left intake that is like that. The rest are tight and out of spec, but that one is the only one nothing will fit in.

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intakes going tight before exhaust can be an indicator of poor air filter maintenance. Personally i would just pull the head and inspect the valve face for wear. Hard to tell just by the shims as they could have been refinished/replaced before making the shims smaller. If the valves show significant wear just replace them and have a piece of mind they wont break off. 

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Valve clearances are tight on these bikes .004-.007 so you need to have a feeler gauge set that is on the super thin side.

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