Vortex vs get cdi/ecu box

Anyone have experience using one of these, I know it makes the gytr tuner useless. Believe my ecu on the fritz. 2011 yz450. Looking to upgrade from stock. Any others that are good? Heard the yoshimura is crap now. Thanks

Here is the reply from Joe846 which has sold me on getting the Vortex:


I bought a Vortex ECU for my 2012 YZ450 from Mike at MT Racing this year. I've been meaning to write up a review for months, but now is as good a time as any.

In a nut shell, forgo the GYTR and buy the Vortex. Single best thing I did to the bike, 2nd potentially being the engine relocation kit. It doesn't get you temp, hours, error codes, etc. which you'll need the tuner for, but otherwise the tuner is nearly worthless comparatively.

Prior to the the ECU I thought I had built a good map off the Jimmy Lewis YZ450 map in Dirt Rider. The bike pulled more smoothly, stalled less, and was more tractable. I use my bike off road, mainly, and for scrambles, and that map combined with the GYTR flywheel & FMF slip on was noticeably better than stock. At least I thought. My bike however didn't start in gear regularly, didn't start perfectly hot, hot stalled with too much throttle, was choppy down low, and needed to be clutched A LOT in slow stuff to stay smooth and not stall. All that after the GYTR power tuner.

After the ECU my bike starts in gear, in 2nd, in 3rd, cold or hot. TDC, kick, start. It start with less effort, the runs smoother at lower throttle openings and isn't jerky. It uses less fuel in every map I've tried, pulls noticeable smoother with less "steps" between power due to the gaps in the GYTR tuner, and it RIPS in the MX & "best power" maps. I've been running map 4 & 5 with the standard best power map, and they are so much smoother than I could have ever gotten with the tuner. Obviously, it feels like the bike was mapped on a dyno. And then when you switch back over to "standard" for map 1, the bike spins up and down faster like the cranks been lightened, feels like it revs higher than just 250rpm's more, and just pulls up top further and faster than you think it will each time, feeling like it's going to jump out of your hands. Also of note, it's now surprising when the bike stalls, not expected.

Take away? If you want your bike to be less "on & off" down low, pull smoother, make more power, "feel" like it spins up and down faster, stall less, or use different maps for different conditions, buy this. If you want to be able to start in 2nd gear, like Paul Whibley, buy this. It's 95%+ of the reason he gets the starts in terms of the bike. I would chock the rest up to new clutches. And, if you want the bike to start more easily + any other power/feel/gas mileage related need, buy this as it's a home run.

Great experience with Mike walking me through the differences between this and other systems like Dynojet, and amazing experience after bolting it on. Bike started first TDC kick in gear, and ripped straight away.

Details like the ability to have someone with the softwareicon1.png play with timing, mapping from 0 rpm's up, starting map, TPS, etc. etc. is all icingicon1.png on top as I doubt I'll ever need more than the maps included. Granted the cost of the software to play around with is a downside, and the cost of the product is high, but other options don't give the turners the same flexibility that I've seen (maybe the factory tools or the KHI ECU), don't cure the YZ's starting in gear issues, and don't seem to have the same off road maps dialed in.

Hope that helps! If I had it to do all over again I'd buy a skid plate, rad braces, hand guards, this, and slip on, engine relocation kit. and a 50t sprocket. Done.

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