I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
Set of Allen wrenches
#3 Phillips screwdriver
small flat head screwdriver
8 & 10 mm sockets
13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
snap ring pliers
New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
Tube or can of RTV sealant
Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
2. Remove right side radiator cover.
3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).
4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.
8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:
10. Remove the plastic gear.
11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:
12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:
13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):
16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
27. You are done, go ride!
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I bought the GYTR weighted flywheel and was actually reluctant to put it on fearing it would rob me of lowend, and make the bike feel lazy. So, I finally gave it a try, and wow, what a difference!
In recent weeks I put on a ported cylinder, a shorty silencer, and dropped one tooth on the rear sprcket. None of which made a noticable improvement.
Now on to the Flywheel weight. A friend who I ride with also has one on his bike and he is always so much smoother in the corners. He actually feared me puting in on! Well his feers were well founded. He now has the best view!
From the instant I pulled away I could feel the difference. The bike actually felt 4-stroke like. Not necessarily a good thing in a two-stroke world but in a good way. Instead of blowing through the gears it wound-up like a wide ratio transmission (on the bottom) and didn't rob from the top. It was like I traded HP for torque on the bottom. My corner speed was NOTICIBLY faster in the first lap.
Needless to say, for now I am sold and will leave it on!
Has anyone had any luck in making their own gaskets for their bike?
I've done this a few times for my Accord and my boat but I haven't tried on my YZ250. I've been able to do a really good job, using an exacto knife or a razor blade, making them pretty identical to their original...
Anyways, If anyone has, if you could let me know what material you used or your results, I'd appreciate it.