Boyesen water pump cover

Anyone run one of these,have just fitted one up and a bit wary of how far they stick out,bash plate almost covers most of it for frontal rock impacts but it looks like laying the bike over on that side would impact the water pump before anything else?

I run the boysen supercooler and have had no trouble with it. It doesn't seem nuch bigger to me. My TT store bash guard covers it completely.

I run one. No problems. I run a HYDE Bash Plate

I run one as well, I have a carbon fiber skid plate and have not had an issue.

Ill look into a new bash plate that covers it completely,anyone have pics of their bash plate and how much it covers waterpump? the only bash plate I can get locally is the one I already run so would be handy to know how it will look and coverage before ordering from overseas

bash.jpg Edited by wielywilly-g

I also added a unionless silicone hose kit I bought off ebay. Fits great and eliminates a few failure points

I have a Boyesen Supercooler on my 05 and 09 450R's.. no issues at all with skid plate. 


Big difference between the OEM/Stock and Boyesen impeller.  :thumbsup: 


Good luck. 








HYDE RACING Plate. The Newer Hyde Plate comes up higher on the water pump


Edited by GreenHornet450

Thanks for the pics guys,does the boyesen clutch cover mean more oil capacity and are they billet or cast?

Not sure about the Boyesen clutch cover, but the Hinson BTL clutch cover is billet, deeper, and holds 920cc's versus 670cc's with the OEM clutch cover.


Hope this helps.


Good luck.

Hmm I looked up the hinson one that fits the KLX450 and they don't advertise the fact that it will hold more oil,will fire off an email to them and ask.

Cast aluminum, stronger and not fragile like magnesium

Hmm I looked up the hinson one that fits the KLX450 and they don't advertise the fact that it will hold more oil,will fire off an email to them and ask.




I'm not sure about the KLX450 series aftermarket clutch covers..


I installed a new Hinson BTL slipper clutch assy with Hinson cover on my 09 CRF450R. I serviced the transmission with 85W gear oil using a ratio rite measuring cup and it took exactly 920cc's before it started to run out the fill hole on the R/H side case cover. When I was installing the Hinson cover I laid it next to the OEM cover, the Hinson cover was noticeably deeper. 


Let us know what you find out on the KLX450 cover. 



for those who swapped over to the boyesen impeller how did you remove the stock impeller? I used the workshop manual which simply says take water pump cover off and undo impeller bolt and swap over,I did that but it just kept turning so I put it in gear and  then it undid and I swapped them over,after searching for other stuff on here I came across someone asking how to remove an impeller and they were told to remove the case to get a wrench on the other side to avoid breaking the shaft or something like that,surely the manual wouldn't leave out that kind of information if you were meant to do it that way? I'm hoping that was just bike specific for that bike that was being discussed

Did if the same way you did. In gear, was pretty easy.

Thanks,I notice that you have a yoshi rs2 exhaust,how do you find it? I'm looking at a new exhaust as mine was butchered a bit to make it fit and the yoshi seem to be the best priced to land in aussie compared to the rest

The Yoshi system has been excellent. Great workmanship, sound and performance. Highly recommended.

Awesome,got my bike running today and have an exhaust leak that stopped me getting the jetting spot on,I have a pro circuit header pipe and pro circuit ti  muffler and the mid pipe size was same as header pipe size so I made it fit and has been a problem ever since,I really want to start off with a whole new exhaust that actually fits together and get the jetting spot on,very impressed after the initial test ride today,the bike feels faster than before and had only used 3/4 of the throttle.Yoshi it is.

I have the FMF Power Bomb and Q4 Muffler. Sounds Great and performs Great. MRD makes a Great Exhaust but they're a Bit Loud

Edited by GreenHornet450

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki
    • By chip6565
      I bought the GYTR weighted flywheel and was actually reluctant to put it on fearing it would rob me of lowend, and make the bike feel lazy. So, I finally gave it a try, and wow, what a difference!
      In recent weeks I put on a ported cylinder, a shorty silencer, and dropped one tooth on the rear sprcket. None of which made a noticable improvement.
      Now on to the Flywheel weight. A friend who I ride with also has one on his bike and he is always so much smoother in the corners. He actually feared me puting in on! Well his feers were well founded. He now has the best view!
      From the instant I pulled away I could feel the difference. The bike actually felt 4-stroke like. Not necessarily a good thing in a two-stroke world but in a good way. Instead of blowing through the gears it wound-up like a wide ratio transmission (on the bottom) and didn't rob from the top. It was like I traded HP for torque on the bottom. My corner speed was NOTICIBLY faster in the first lap.
      Needless to say, for now I am sold and will leave it on!
    • By MotoRyder2
      Has anyone had any luck in making their own gaskets for their bike?
      I've done this a few times for my Accord and my boat but I haven't tried on my YZ250. I've been able to do a really good job, using an exacto knife or a razor blade, making them pretty identical to their original...
      Anyways, If anyone has, if you could let me know what material you used or your results, I'd appreciate it.
    • By anthonyzx10r
      kick start kit why do we need this ?? is the starter not very good ? why add weight to the bike .