Help! Tyres Spinning on Rims!

My rear tyre is slipping big time unless I run massive pressures!! I run 2 rim locks on the rear a stock one and a billet one! 20-25 psi stops it a little but that's not really ideal for my riding!! Does anyone have experience with the tubliss?

Sounds like your tire is shot, and installed wrong. Probably a broken bead.

No reason for it to slip otherwise.

It happens with every tyre I put on my bike always just slips far enough to have the valve twisted as far as it can around after every ride!! If I have my tyre pumped up tight it doesn't do it!

I run 6lbs and one rim lock, and it never slips.

Are you using WD 40 or any petroleum products to mount the tire?

Are you tightening the rim lock so all the threads show?

Edited by Kah Ran Nee

Use hand cleaner or window cleaner to install. Something that evaporates. I run two of those light motion pro rim locks and keep them tight and don't have a problem.

I am doing all of the above!! I do not know what is going on!! I do not use lube to get the tyre on at all and I also use a HD tube!! Yes the rim lock is TIGHT!

My rear tyre is slipping big time unless I run massive pressures!! I run 2 rim locks on the rear a stock one and a billet one! 20-25 psi stops it a little but that's not really ideal for my riding!! Does anyone have experience with the tubliss?

TRY the TUBLISS! - get a tough desert tire & start off with half of the pressure you are running now (not sure what massive is??) - and you will not look back!

 

You will NOT have tire spin issues & the ride will be MUCH better!!

TRY the TUBLISS! - get a tough desert tire & start off with half of the pressure you are running now (not sure what massive is??) - and you will not look back!

You will NOT have tire spin issues & the ride will be MUCH better!!

I'm assuming you use one? I run about 20-25psi to stop my problem and this pretty much does fix my issue! Problem is with mainly soft/intermediate sand and loam. high pressures suck!

I'm assuming you use one? I run about 20-25psi to stop my problem and this pretty much does fix my issue! Problem is with mainly soft/intermediate sand and loam. high pressures suck!

Yes, high pressure SUCKS!! And I have used tubliss for many years and they have improved a lot from their first introduction. But a key point tin having the best results with tubliss is selecting the right tire, with a stiff sidewall. Can you get the Dunlop 739AT in Australia? Or what other 6 ply tires are available there?? (and what are you running now?)...

Running an mx51 now it's ok but not awesome! Loved the D756 but unfortunately no longer made!! Not sure what tyres we have here that are 6 ply but HT tyres don't really suit our area!

Edited by Nusk450x

I know this is "outside the box" - but you would be AMAZED at how good a tough desert tire works at 5psi (even lower) - when you can get down to these pressures it is a whole different animal. the SIDEWALL STIFFNESS and TOUGHNESS is number ONE! - I think any tread would work, and NO pinch flats or dinged rims either... REALLY!!!

+1 on the tubliss, i've used them for over 6 years now without ever getting a flat and my tires never move at all. :thumbsup:

 

Check out this video

 

Edited by crazybrother

Tilted valve stem is not usually the tire slipping, it's the tube moving around usually from the wheel spinning fast than suddenly being locked up from braking.   Heavier  tubes do it worse in my experience, as do the wrong size tube for the tire and tires that don't have some inner ribs, too much (if any) baby powder.   usually happens shortly after mounted when everything is slick and clean inside.  After things get dirty gritty rubber junk it'll usually stop.   Try cleaning the inside of the tire out and the tube and put it together without powder.   If you still think its the tire slipping, mark the rim/tire and see if that's it.

Ok so perhaps I'll try the tubliss!! Cheers for the help guys!!

I run 8lbs and have never had a tire spin on my...one rim lock as well

Tilted valve stem is not usually the tire slipping, it's the tube moving around usually from the wheel spinning fast than suddenly being locked up from braking. Heavier tubes do it worse in my experience, as do the wrong size tube for the tire and tires that don't have some inner ribs, too much (if any) baby powder. usually happens shortly after mounted when everything is slick and clean inside. After things get dirty gritty rubber junk it'll usually stop. Try cleaning the inside of the tire out and the tube and put it together without powder. If you still think its the tire slipping, mark the rim/tire and see if that's it.

ah I didn't know this but I don't use powder putting tyres together!! Anyway I'll mark my tyre and rim and check!! Cheers for that still recon I'll try the tubliss I like the idea of running 6psi with no rim damage!!

I've been running Tubliss about 2 years now , over 3 different bikes. It is a good system. The one problem is that too many people hype it and say that

it eliminates flats and eliminates pinch flats. This is almost true. I have gotten one "snake eyes" pinch flat in 2 years . It was in trail with very pointy rocks and

one must have hit just right... I got a flat but continued riding a bit until i noticed the tire spinning on the wheel. At that point in knew the inner bladder was

blown. When I got home I noticed that it also bent the low pressure stem. Considering what I pit the bike thru in the rock trail of NE PA 1 pinch flat in 2 years is really good. I have had a front and 2 rear flats that were quickly and painlessly plugged trailside. With Tubliss , you have to watch his video and pay attention to detail he describes and install it exactly. Spray lots of soapy water in the bladder, the tire bead and rim bead. Never dig in too far with the spoons.

ALWAYS CHECK AND PUMP UP THE INNER BLADDER TO 110 PSI BEFORE EVERY RIDE.  Rubber tubes are slightly porous so 110 psi today is 90 tomorrow and maybe 50-60 by the next week. Then if you skip a week it could be dangerously low at which point the system may not seal or worse, it may not hold the bead and allow tire spin on the wheel. If anyone decides to go Tubliss, watch his vid and read all of the FAQ on the Neutech Tubliss site. Good luck all .

Are you running the stock rim locks?
I had a similar problem on a bike and it turned out that the rim locks I had bought were for another rim dimension and too small inside the rim to properly grab the bead properly.
possibly look at the measurements of the rim lock and width of the wheel. also scuffing the inside of the tire to make a rougher surface for the rim lock to grab the bead is also a path some take for nasty enduros here.

Are you running the stock rim locks?

I had a similar problem on a bike and it turned out that the rim locks I had bought were for another rim dimension and too small inside the rim to properly grab the bead properly.

possibly look at the measurements of the rim lock and width of the wheel. also scuffing the inside of the tire to make a rougher surface for the rim lock to grab the bead is also a path some take for nasty enduros here.

I have the stock with a billet lock also for a 2.15" rim so yes they are the correct rim locks! But cheers for the reply I might try the tubliss!

 I like the idea of running 6psi with no rim damage!!

 

Don't fool yourself...running 6 psi will result in rim damage when hitting rocks or square edged bumps...

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