'97 CR250 Stator/Flywheel Kit Hacking

I asked elsewhere, but maybe this needs to be posted by itself. I have no experience with the CR's engines, I'm just wondering why I can't bolt on the Ricky Stator kit for '99~'01 bikes? Is the crankshaft different? Does the stator cover extend out far enough? Besides the obvious Powerjet/CDI changes, what else is there that will get in the way of bolting that kit onto a 1997 CR250? I can change out the CDI if I need to, disable the Powerjet solenoid. I don't care about any of that. I just want to know why the Ricky Stator kit can't bolt on. Bolt holes in the wrong place? What's up with it? I sent an email to Ricky Stator, it looks like they don't have time to teach newbies, I've gotten no explanation on what exactly is different. I've heard the voltage is higher & there's very little current available. I don't care about the electrical issues. I think the bike will be better off running on a '01 setup anyways and if I need to I'll rewind the stator but it would be nice to get that flywheel. Any expert opinion shared will be much appreciated, thanks!

Off hand i cant picture the connectors in my head, but if you transplanted the whole 99-01 setup onto yours it would work fine.

My 95 cr250 has a 2000 setup on it. Has been on there since '06.

I haven't done the swap, but I think you'd need to transplant the entire ignition / electrical system.  I'm pretty sure the physical engine is the same and everything will bolt on.

Off hand i cant picture the connectors in my head, but if you transplanted the whole 99-01 setup onto yours it would work fine.

My 95 cr250 has a 2000 setup on it. Has been on there since '06.

I was wondering if this might be the case, but I wanted to ask first before dropping $200 on that stator/flywheel kit.

 

I think I read somewhere just recently that the newer CDI has a better microprocessor and can help the engine run smoother. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to also ask if the CDI pinout holds to a consistent pattern ie - they used the same pinout for the stator & ignition connections. Isn't the Powerjet connection on a separate plug? So the non-powerjet CDI should just simply not have that extra plug, right?

 

I'm looking at pictures of various years stator backing plates and they all look pretty much the same. But I can't tell from pics if the crankshaft has the same dimensions, but it kinda looks like they all are about the same diameter. I would imagine any changes made to the crankshaft, in that area would be for fixing a problem, and if so then Honda would continue using the change into the newer years. So it's a good sign that you got that combo to work.

Edited by Big Dirt Spray O Roses

I haven't done the swap, but I think you'd need to transplant the entire ignition / electrical system.  I'm pretty sure the physical engine is the same and everything will bolt on.

Yup, I'm planning on doing the entire electrical end of things. The advertised power output of that stator/flywheel kit is worth the extra work!

Now I think of this! Took a look at the partzilla website, for a 1997 CR250 crankshaft. Part number is 13300-KZ3-B10, the interchange list states this part number also fits every year from 1992 up to 2001. Ok, so that answers that part of the project. Looks like some no-nonsense 50/65 H4 or maybe an LED headlight will be going onto this CR!

If you are only needing a headlight operating for appearance reasons then you can power a small LED with your current stator. By using the

12v DC power that was provided to the power jet carb I have been able to operate both an LED headlight and tail/brake light as well as an

electric horn. With this setup you will not have adequate lighting for night riding.

If you are only needing a headlight operating for appearance reasons then you can power a small LED with your current stator. By using the

12v DC power that was provided to the power jet carb I have been able to operate both an LED headlight and tail/brake light as well as an

electric horn. With this setup you will not have adequate lighting for night riding.

I've seen someone saying it's a 12VDC being sent to the solenoid, but didn't think much of it as I wouldn't expect a solenoid to need much power - so I also wouldn't expect the factory to provide that much amperage on that circuit. However, that's very interesting that you pulled that off. How many watts was that LED and how many watts was all your lights? I would expect that you will need a battery. Doesn't that 12 volts get shut off depending on RPM?

 

It's a friends bike that I am providing technical assistance on. He already told me that it doesn't need anything more than a daytime only headlight for appearances sake. But personally I think it's a bad idea to ride a bike down the road and not be prepared for an accidental 'got dark sooner than I expected' scenario! At the very least, have a handlebar mounted flashlight like one of those $100 Nitecore rigs, and keep it stashed in the tool bag.

 

The bike is going in to a local Honda shop for the street legal inspection. They already said that all the lenses need to have DOT markings on them. Headlight, turns signals, tail/brake light. So it will need to be a standard H4 headlight with an LED conversion bulb. I haven't found any LED headlights that have DOT approval. The inspection will include verifying the DOT markings along with the correct height off the pavement and correct colors. However, the horn can be a CO2 powered type attached to the handlebars. The only thing the state requires is that the horn can be plainly heard at a certain distance away. Not sure what that was, maybe 100 feet? But if it's loud enough, it can even be one of those squeeze bulb bicycle horns. I think non-DOT LED turn signals will be ok if you also put DOT marked lenses over the LED modules. You could zip-tie replacement lenses right to the plastic that surrounds the headlight and that would also hold the LED modules in place.

So, anyone notice I don't know enough about these CR's? Anyways, I just found out the stator harness on a 2000 & 2001 plugs directly into the CDI. So, I don't need the CDI pinout. Not so sure about how the kill switch connects into there, is that also on the stator harness? I think I see that harness has it's own connection directly to a regulator, so that part is all just adding stuff to the bike and not changing stuff.

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