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Massachusetts Just bought 01 DRZ400s but it doesn't run need help

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So just bought a DRZ400s...&%$#@!ing pumped to finally get one its plated everything looks great but heres the bad part. its been sitting around the pass 10 years barely being used. its last inspection expried in 05. so the guy i bought it off of tells me every year he would try running it and turning it on to see if it works and it would but it got worse and worse every year. last 2 years it would start but wouldnt run, now it won't even start, it only has 3000 miles on it and im hoping the carb is just clogged to shit or maybe i gotta &%$#@! around with some spark plugs. i am no bike expert at all but i want to try doing this myself so i can eventua;;y be able to maintain my bike on my own. was shitting bricks today at work my friend was calling me a dumbass for throwing my money away on a bike that i didnt even hear the engine running on 

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and if i were to take it to a shop what do you think the cost would be worse case scenario

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So just bought a DRZ400s...&%$#@!ing pumped to finally get one its plated everything looks great but heres the bad part. its been sitting around the pass 10 years barely being used. its last inspection expried in 05. so the guy i bought it off of tells me every year he would try running it and turning it on to see if it works and it would but it got worse and worse every year. last 2 years it would start but wouldnt run, now it won't even start, it only has 3000 miles on it and im hoping the carb is just clogged to shit or maybe i gotta &%$#@! around with some spark plugs. i am no bikeicon1.pngexpert at all but i want to try doing this myself so i can eventua;;y be able to maintain my bike on my own. was shitting bricks today at work my friend was calling me a dumbass for throwing my money away on a bike that i didnt even hear the engine running on 

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You're gonna have to get the carb cleaned. Fresh gas and cleaned carb it will start right up.

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Also just noticed this air vent I think..bike wasn't turning over which was worrying me this not being In cause that? ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1406260452.259428.jpg

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<<was shitting bricks today at work my friend was calling me a dumbass for throwing my money away on a bike that i didnt even hear the engine running on>>

 

 It is a gamble, but sometimes you can come out way ahead with a bike like this if you do the work yourself.    With some older bikes, the biggest problem can be finding the parts.   This is a popular bike though and shouldn't be an issue.  And in this case, it sounds like nothing is radically wrong other than the bike sat.  That means the carb is most likely gummed up and anything rubber has dried out.   Worst case is if the cylinder/valves rusted.

 

So.....

 

1. Replace the plug

2. Replace the oil

3. Take off the carb and rebuild it (clean it, fresh gaskets, seals, etc).

 

 and chances are you'll be off and running without issue.

 

 Before starting, put a teaspoon of oil in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over several times to make sure everything is oiled well.

 

  If it won't turn over easily or is jammed, then you'll need to pull the cylinder off to find out why and at that point, will most likely need a fresh piston, rings, and possibly a valve job.

 

  all depends on when it was sitting if the valves were opened or closed and how/where the bike was stored (big difference between a heated garage and the shed out back).  If closed, then they should be in good shape.   The problem is condensation, which can build up and cause things to rust.

 

Jim.

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+1 to the above. Must pull carb, clean throughly all channel ways and maybe ever soak it awhile. Get a complete carb rebuild kit with all new rubber parts and float needle assembly . A new ACV diaphram. Re assemble and see what happens. You can do this all yourself. Lots of threads here and even diagrams. Have fun learning your bike!

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alright so got the bike running, needed new battery and a simple turn to prime but now it wont idle i had it going for awhile and shouldve got on an rode it but i didnt have my helmet yet and i also dont have my class m so i didnt feel like already getting my bike taken away. Now theres a new problem anytime i try starting it it sounds like it just doesnt have power and now its not turning over again. my odometer and everything will almost just turn off when i try turning it on it will be flickering. Feel like i might have flooded the tank from trying so many times but also feel like i might need a new spark plug or something

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Sean , Remember this bike has sat for a very long time , the reason your bike will not run is the fact that the pilot circuit is blocked . This is either a blocked jet or the passageways in the carb . STOP trying to make the bike run by just turning the fuel tap and putting a battery in it !!!!!!! You must pull the carb and thoroughly clean it and replace any worn/damaged or perished parts . Check the fuel tank , it may have rusted after sitting so long . Change all of the fluids , this includes engine oil and filter , brake fluid , radiator coolant , fork oil and gas , then check that all the electrical connections have not corroded . Read what some of the previous posts have said , they are speaking from experience . On the subject of the battery , even with a new battery , it will go flat very quick if the motor doesn`t start right away . There is just enough amperage for the bike with the 7 amp , but they are way too underpowered when put to task . If you sort everything out first , then you will have very little hassel getting it going , but if you dont you will only have problem after problem , greg

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The dash almost going out is from a dead battery.  If you crank and crank you will cook the starter and the battery. 

 

You didn't say what you have done so far regarding changing the oil or other work.

 

Are trying to start it with or without the choke?

 

These bikes do have a history of the carbs gumming up if they sit.  The idle jet and circuit have the smallest holes so they gum up the easiest.  Sometimes they will start with full choke but won't idle.  This is the same problem and requires cleaning the carb.  At the very least adding a bunch of Seafoam to the gas can help but cleaning the carb properly will save you a lot of hassle.

 

Three easy steps as Gsxrstuntdrz said already:

Charge your battery, they are small and you cannot crank much before they are dead.

Clean the carb, almost certainly the problem.

Replace the pilot jet.  Since they only cost about $5 and are hard to perfectly clean it is easier just to replace them.  You can try to clean it but if you poke a wire through it is easy to make the hole bigger.

 

If you have the carb apart you want to avoid getting carb cleaner onto rubber parts.  Some recommend using brake cleaner instead as it is not as hard on rubber parts.  Make sure air will blow through the passages.  If you are lucky the previous owner put fresh gas in each year so it might not be that gunky and since it already started that is a great sign that a carb cleaning will fix it up.

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So just bought a DRZ400s...&%$#@!ing pumped to finally get one its plated everything looks great but heres the bad part. its been sitting around the pass 10 years barely being used. its last inspection expried in 05. so the guy i bought it off of tells me every year he would try running it and turning it on to see if it works and it would but it got worse and worse every year. last 2 years it would start but wouldnt run, now it won't even start, it only has 3000 miles on it and im hoping the carb is just clogged to shit or maybe i gotta &%$#@! around with some spark plugs. i am no bike expert at all but i want to try doing this myself so i can eventua;;y be able to maintain my bike on my own. was shitting bricks today at work my friend was calling me a dumbass for throwing my money away on a bike that i didnt even hear the engine running on 

 

 

alight stop

collaborate and listen

 

 

 

pull the tank off and flush it with fresh gas 3-4 times (slosh it around, dump it out the filler hole

1 new battery

2 pull carb and spray wd40 through every hole on it you can find. NOT carb cleaner, or brake cleaner. (no gasket kits needed)

3 pull spark plug, spray some (don't fill it!) wd40, or 3-in-1 oil (NOT carb cleaner!) in the plug hole, cycle the starter 3-4 times, then repeat 3-4 times (preventing stuck rings)

4 reinstall all that stuff

5 change oil, pulling both the frame and case plugs, but don't kill the case plug hole by over torquing it. yes, filter too. don't kill those studs either.

6 carb on prime, choke on, thumb the starter

7 when the bike fires, don't rev the piss out of it, wait for it to start chugging, turn the choke off, ride around some

8 CHECK YOUR OIL NOW using the proper procedure (motor off three minutes, check, add/remove as needed)

9 ride it for a week on short trips, then change oil/filter again

10 have you done a real once-over on the tires, brakes, chain, you know, stuff that will kill you ? 

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Using jumper cables to connect it to a larger battery like a car battery will save abusing the bike battery.   The stock bike battery is 7Ah but the starter can draw 190 amps so it can not crank that long before it is dead.   Running the battery completely dead as little as 6 times can permanently ruin it by causing sulfation.  A charger will preferrably have a 4amp setting and be an 'Automatic' charger but when the bike starts it puts up to 15amps to the battery so a 10amp 'Automatic' charger should not damage the battery if that is all you have.  Manual chargers need watching and if the battery gets warm and starts bubbling then stop.

 

Regarding above comments:

1 until you want to ride the bike you can use jumper cables.  If you need a new battey save it until the bike is rideable.

 

5 watch how tight you make each of those plugs or nuts.  The case plug threads into aluminum and has been known to strip or even break the case if over tightened.  Strongly recommended to get a new crush washer each time.  Excessive tightening is not a solution to keep a worn out crush washer from leaking.  The nuts on the oil filter cover are small and should have small amounts of force used.

 

6 I think 'petcock on prime' was meant and this will fill the carb so that the first cranking is not just to create vacuum to open the petcock.  In case the float valve leaks try not to leave the petcock on prime when not riding.  When the petcock is 'on' it is a good idea to check for leaking by disconnecting the fuel hose at the carb and leaving it stuck into a pop can overnight.  Check it in the morning to see if there is leaked fuel in the can.  If there is you can remove the 4 screws on the back of the petcock and change the plunger o-ring which is 4mm ID x 2mm thick (8mm OD).  Nitrile or other fuel safe material is needed for the o-ring.

 

7 If you turn off the choke too soon it will stall, so let it warm up until it starts to be too rich which will be apparent when it starts to chug.

 

8 The dipstick only shows the oil level once the scavenge pump has had time to move the oil to the frame reservoir which is at least 5 minutes.  People who didn't know that have put several additional quarts of oil in which is bad.  This bike has a dry sump and has 2 oil pumps.  The first 'scavenge' pump moves any oil that reaches its pickup up to the frame tank.  From the frame tank it feeds to the pressure pump which circulates it to the engine.  The pressure is quite low as most of the bearings are ball bearings and volume not pressure is what is needed.  The crank and cylinder are about the only areas that any minimal pressure is needed.

 

9, 10 good advice.

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