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New guy 2002 wr250

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Hey everyone , I am new to the sight

and it has been over 30 years since I

had a dirt bike last one was 1978 Yamaha IT 175 great bike did a lot of hare scrambles had a ball. Really just stumbled on to this bike, it had literally been in storage for 11 years, they left gas in it so it will not run, tank and carb need to be flushed out, other than that the bike looks perfect, would appreciate any advice as to the best way to get it going. Never thought I would ride again but now this sort of fell in my lap I can't wait to go! Thanks!!

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I bought a 2002 WR-250F in July of 2012 that was basically sitting unridden for the majority of 10 years.

Mine looked like a garage queen, too.

 

The carburetor was taken apart and all rubber parts replaced along with the pilot jet.

All other jets and passageways were cleaned with brake/contact cleaner, including the accelerator pump passages.

In other words, you need to be 100% certain the carburetor is 100%.

 

I also replaced the fuel petcock and the sealing washers under the screw heads that fasten the petcock to the fuel tank.

 

New air filter.

 

Changed oil and oil filter.

 

Checked valve clearances.

 

Performed all of the "free mods" and "uncorking mods" since my bike was so unused by the original owner, these were not yet performed.

You're in luck, too, since this information, shown in the FAQ on this forum, was written for 2002 models.

Owners of 2007-and-later models, for comparison, have to scrounge for it.

 

I also tore the chassis down and greased every chassis bearing, oil seal, nut, bolt, and pivot shaft, lubed all control cables, replaced the drive chain (I would not trust it from sitting 11 years), and replaced the tires, tire tubes, and rim strips with new ones (also not trusted from sitting a decade).

 

Last, but probably should be up at the top of this list, is to get a copy of the genuine Yamaha Owner's Service Manual for your WR-250FP, the excellent book that came with the bike when it was brand new off the dealer's showroom floor.

If you already have it, great.

If not, GET IT.

 

Enjoy, as the 2002 WR-250F is even closer to the equivalent model year of YZ-250F than the latest model was.

Edited by YZEtc
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Wow, that's great thanks for all the good information, I did not get the owners manual with it, just the title. I will definetly get one , you are right about things like the chain it is dry as a bone and has some surface rust on it, I am sure it was somewhat damp in his garage, anyway thanks again

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I purchased a bone stock 2001 WR 250 F that had been sitting a while. Apart from the complete fuel system cleaning & valve clearance check I found the bike was really "corked up". I added a JD jet kit & YZ muffler along w/ the free mods. After my first ride I got absolutely tired of the starting drill - it was just a PITA to start and I did have a CR500 when I was younger. So one of the best mods done to my WR was add a decompression exhaust cam.. Should have done this first.

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I purchased a bone stock 2001 WR 250 F that had been sitting a while. Apart from the complete fuel system cleaning & valve clearance check I found the bike was really "corked up". I added a JD jet kit & YZ muffler along w/ the free mods. After my first ride I got absolutely tired of the starting drill - it was just a PITA to start and I did have a CR500 when I was younger. So one of the best mods done to my WR was add a decompression exhaust cam.. Should have done this first.

What DEC (decompression exhaust cam) did you end up going with? I would like to get one for my 2001.

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I purchased a new oe YZ cam. I really debated should I get a WR or YZ cam... YZ cam seemed to be the choice I found in a lot of posts. The power just felt better across the range. I really believe they stifle these bikes quite a bit to meet emission & sound regulations.

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So cost on that? If you don't mind my asking.

You can buy an oe exhaust cam from Boats.net for $150. I found Hotcams for about $125 but wanted to stay oe.

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Thanks for the info, just took the carb off yesterday , trying to get it running before I start anything else, I think everything else on the bike is good , it will be a relief when I hear it crank over, then I will feel a lot better about my purchase

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I too owned a 1978 IT 175. If that was the last bike you owned, this will be an incredible leap forward in technology. Brakes are much better, suspension is much more plush , all around a far more enjoyable ride.

Just read on this forum about bike set up, suspension settings, etc. and you will be very very pleased in your ride

Seriously, the very first thing you need to do is set your SAG at 100 mm. It will make the bike work so much better than if you do not have the SAG set.

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I agree with just getting the bike started first.  The last thing you want is to add some bling and cause another problem.  First problem is getting the bike started, but maybe the carb was drained.  I'd make sure it has oil.  Kick start it a bunch of times with the kill button pressed to get oil circulated and then add some gas and see if it starts.  I wouldn't ride it hard on those old tires.  Chances are the suspension bearings are rusted, but one never knows.

Some people will say I'm crazy for not taking everything apart immediately.

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I  .cant wait to hear what new curse words you make up as this process unfolds. On the bright side, you will learn to remove/reinstall an FCR carb in record time. When you're done pulling out you hair trying to tune it properly, send it to Zipty. $300 plus parts and it will run like it's supposed to.

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I  .cant wait to hear what new curse words you make up as this process unfolds. On the bright side, you will learn to remove/reinstall an FCR carb in record time. When you're done pulling out you hair trying to tune it properly, send it to Zipty. $300 plus parts and it will run like it's supposed to.

 Personally I wouldn't spend $300 to have a carb worked on a bike that hasn't been ridden. Clean the carb thoroughly replace the pilot jet & float needle /seat. I didn't replace my float needle / seat on my 2001and it gave me intermittent grief. If you decide to jet / tune the bike its pretty much plug n' play running a JD jet kit. A clean fuel syetem from the tank vent to the carb and properly adjusted valves will make a nice running bike.

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Thanks all, disassembled everything, carb is at a buddy's who is an expert mechanic , going to go thru it and clean thoroughly . Had a mouse nest in the air box and he chewed up the element, petcock leaks and the bike must have fallen over in his garage front brake lever curled . I have ordered new parts, so hopefully when I get the carb back I can see if it will run. Thanks again

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Cut a piece of 1" radiator hose about 1.5" long and push it down on the kickstarter to where the kickstarter hits the footpeg.  It is tight, might need some WD.

    When you start to go through, just twist it 1/4 turn.

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No advise from me, sorry...but had to respond.  30 years, huh?  Welcome back!  Same thing here.  Kicking myself for not having scratched the itch 10 years ago. Having an absolute blast...as much fun wrenching as riding.  Just uncorked a friends newly purchased, bone stock 09 WR.  That's why a red bike guy is on the blue thread.  Good luck with the "new" bike. 

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If a simple cleaning works that would be great. IIRC the mid body parts on the 01-02 wr fcr carb are not for sale. so if you pull it apart, everything in there has to be re-used (oring/gasket?)

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I gotta say .  .  . I am still amazed at how well my ultrasonic carb cleaner works.

 I use 50-50  Simple Green and water.  I run them at 130 degrees for ten minutes or so and they come out amazing.  Much longer and the aluminum starts to darken so be careful.

    If you have green gunk in the carb, I have heard that using B-12 in the ultrasonic works well but I have not had a gunky carb in quite a while so I have never tried the B-12.

    So, if you have a buddy with an ultrasonic carb cleaner, I highly recommend it.

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