Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

I screwed up

Recommended Posts

So I went riding the other day and I was in a hurry to get going so I quickly put a fresh new filter on but I didn't put it on properly and I think dirt got into the engine.Not sure how much got in the engine it self but when I my finger in the airboat I pick up little bits of dirt. My question is how bad did that hurt the engine a should I worry about it blowing up soon?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the engine still run? That will give you an indication of how much dirt it sucked. If it doesn't run, or it starts some rod knock, then you know you've sucked too much.

 

Clean the air boot.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya engine runs fine no knocking I actually didn't notice until today and have been testing my jetting this last week just with the bike on the stand. I will be cleaning the airboot tomorrow for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya engine runs fine no knocking I actually didn't notice until today and have been testing my jetting this last week just with the bike on the stand. I will be cleaning the airboot tomorrow for sure.

 

 

You need to test jetting on a track or dirt area, not on a stand. The motorcycle needs a load on the rear tyre and air flowing over it to give an accurate indication. A stand is there for holding the motorcycle up when not in operation, not to assist in jetting it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to avoid a seizure, then think about pulling off the top end for an inspection and cleaning.  I'd probably flush out the bottom with some diesel or WD40 as well.

do I just drain the tranny oil and fill the bottom with wd40?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to test jetting on a track or dirt area, not on a stand. The motorcycle needs a load on the rear tyre and air flowing over it to give an accurate indication. A stand is there for holding the motorcycle up when not in operation, not to assist in jetting it.

ya I know I noticed at the track that my clip position was to lean and It was detonating so I just changed it to make sure it wasn't to rich which it was so I had to change it again. I will be adjusting it if needed next time I'm at the track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should I get new gaskets when I inspect the top end or can I reuse the old ones?

Should always get new ones unless you want an air leak.  As far as tranny oil, that should be unaffected, change at regular interval.  Where I'd be concerned is the crank bearings below the cylinder/piston.  Pulling the motor out is fairly easy.  Get a gallon of WD 40 at the hardware store, and just pour in the crank cavity, and then dump into a bucket.  Optional, pour in an ounce of premix oil before putting the top end back on.  This will ensure good lubrication at initial startup after the flush.  

 

BTW:  WD40 is great for cleaning your cylinder walls as well before putting your top end back on.

Edited by magpie5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should always get new ones unless you want an air leak.  As far as tranny oil, that should be unaffected, change at regular interval.  Where I'd be concerned is the crank bearings below the cylinder/piston.  Pulling the motor out is fairly easy.  Get a gallon of WD 40 at the hardware store, and just pour in the crank cavity, and then dump into a bucket.  Optional, pour in an ounce of premix oil before putting the top end back on.

Ok thanks will be doing this as soon as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should do the following:

1)Pull off the subframe and clean out the intake tract. (might as well clean the whole airbox since it's off.

2) remove the carb and clean it by spraying it out with Honda carb cleaner.

3)Remove and inspect the reeds.

4)Pull off the cylinder and inspect the piston/head/cylinder replace parts as necessary.

(If things are scarred and scratched up badly then you should split the cases if not, your

bottom end is probably ok.

Don't foget to clean the power valve once your in there.

Don't re-use gaskets. Fix it right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should do the following:

1)Pull off the subframe and clean out the intake tract. (might as well clean the whole airbox since it's off.

2) remove the carb and clean it by spraying it out with Honda carb cleaner.

3)Remove and inspect the reeds.

4)Pull off the cylinder and inspect the piston/head/cylinder replace parts as necessary.

(If things are scarred and scratched up badly then you should split the cases if not, your

bottom end is probably ok.

Don't foget to clean the power valve once your in there.

Don't re-use gaskets. Fix it right.

Ok thanks will be taking the whole motor out tomorrow and thoroughly inspecting and cleaning everything

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks and what are the motor mounts torque specs?

Snug and then a little.

I don't know really, the way I see it they're locking nuts with only lateral force effecting them so snug works fine for me, I might be doing it wrong but hasn't caused the trouble yet

Edited by zotis777

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if you can buy Honda Pro Oils carb cleaner in the US but we can get it in Canada.

It works better than anything else out there!

Never seen it! I'll look next time I'm at the dealer, but I didn't know. If I find it I'll have to try it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sell it!!  If you're gonna go pro, you can't be riding a bike that's sucked dirt!!!!

 

Or just do like us weekend warriors who try to disassociate ourselves from regular weekend warriors--clean the bike, filter, etc.  If it sounds ok and compression is fine, just ride it til you do a motor job of some kind and inspect everything. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By D.Barrett
      Kicking around the idea of selling my CR250. I have other bikes and never get a chance to ride this one.

      This is a well-maintained bike with tons of aftermarket parts. It's set up primarily for woods/single-track riding, but will still do just fine on an MX track.

      Engine:
      -Fresh Pro-X top end(<1 hour)
      -FMF Gnarly pipe & FMF Shorty silencer(<1 hour on fresh packing)
      -PWK Air-Striker Carburetor(bought new from JD Jetting last year)
      -Steahy 10oz. Flywheel Weight
      -Boyesen Rad Valve with Carbon-fiber reeds
      -TwinAir air filter

      Misc:
      -Excel Pro-Series Wheels(19"/21")
      -Brand-new Shinko tires(546 Front, 505 Cheater Rear not mounted yet) w/ Heavy-duty tubes
      -Works Connection Radiator Guards
      -Skid Plate
      -FMF Factory 909 Handlebars
      -Polished Frame
      -Sunstar 13/51 Steel Sprockets(new in box)

      I'm sure I'm missing a few odds and ends. Comes with a Bill of Sale only. (708)287-1998 - Dave
    • By waldo
      Parting out 2000 cr 250r: frame 150.00, seat with brand new fx cover 30.00, sub frame 30.00, pro circuit works pipe 50.00, kick starter 10 bucks, tank with shrouds 30.00, rear shock 45.00, swing arm 40.00.  make offer on all other parts in picture. Buyer pays shipping from 36092 zip. 
    • By BabyGroot69
      Hello,
      I could not seem to find a similar thread so if one exists I apologize. I have an 02 cr250r with an 01 motor. I need to buy a new silencer with a spark arrestor because the current one does not have one. I am not sure if the owner before me used an 01 or 02 silencer because I have read the frame had significant changes from 01 to 02. Any thoughts? Thanks!
    • By Christo6060
      I want to restore a 1996 cr80 that doesn’t have any graphics and absolutely love the 1994 cr125r tank shroud graphics, I can’t seem to find anything that fits the cr80 with those graphics. I found one last week but lost the page and couldn’t track it down again, do the cr125r graphics fit the cr80 tank shrouds? or does anyone know where someone could make them for cheap or know about any in Australia 

    • By cerialsledder
      Hey guys,
       
      Could someone please explain the numbers on a needle jet for a mikuni carb?  I'm currently running a 38-73 needle but a lot of the people I talk to say I would be happier running a 38-70 needle.  I don't have a problem with going with what other recommend but I would like to understand the numbering for the needles first.  I understand the nozzle sizes, main jet and pilot jet it's just this damn needle thingamobob
       
      Thanks a lot 
×