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DRZ bogs all of a sudden

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I rode my DRZ to work this morning fine but then coming home afterwards the bike just bogs with any load.

 

Sitting in neutral if I rev the throttle fast enough the bike will just stall out.

 

Anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

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I rode my DRZ to work this morning fine but then coming home afterwards the bike just bogs with any load.

Sitting in neutral if I rev the throttle fast enough the bike will just stall out.

Anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

Has someone pulled your choke out, perhaps?

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Sounds like a bad stator.  The testing procedures are in the FAQ section.

 

A quick test to start with is find the plug just behind the forward edge of the airbox door where 3 yellow wires from the charge coils of the stator plug into the Regulator/Rectifier harness, then unplug it and see if the bike runs better.

 

The fault is typically a short from the signal coil to charge coils.  This could be caused by heat and age or a bolt backing out of the stator or starter one way clutch on the flywheel.

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I rode my DRZ to work this morning fine but then coming home afterwards the bike just bogs with any load.

Sitting in neutral if I rev the throttle fast enough the bike will just stall out.

Anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

So it starts and idles fine?

But give it throttle and it bogs and goes nowhere?

If so, have a look in your float bowl, see if the main jet is sitting in the bottom. If so reinstall and go ride

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Choke was the first thing I checked, as soon as I choke the bike at all it stalls.

 

I'll check the Sator FAQ and then pull my carb and check my main jet. I can't imagine the main jet fell out though as I just cleaned it a couple months ago.

 

Even though the bike bogs under load if you slowly get it up to higher revs then it can still manage okay (that's how I got it home).

 

Thanks for the replies.

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I tested the battery and stator and they both seem okay. 12.8V off and 13.5V running on the battery. The impedance on the stator was 1.1 ohms. I tested the AC voltage coming out of the stator and it was 38V idle and 60V with some revs so it seems okay. I didn't test my RR but based on the voltage at the battery it all seems fine.

 

I guess tomorrow night I get to pull the carb, what fun!

Edited by Slappysan

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No need to remove carb yet.Tap the bowl to help settle any crud into the bowl,turn off the fuel and carefully unscrew the drain plug. Hopefully you'll find the reason without  having to dig deeper.

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No need to remove carb yet.Tap the bowl to help settle any crud into the bowl,turn off the fuel and carefully unscrew the drain plug. Hopefully you'll find the reason without  having to dig deeper.

Depends on which bike and which carb it has.. No plug on a BSR36 Mikuni carb

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Ok, it may not be stator related, but just to be clearer what causes the failure to rev up when stator related is not a lack of charging but a short or break in the wiring to or the signal coil itself.  This affects timing and late timing affects power.

 

Just for fun unplug the stator charge harness just below the R/R and see if it changes how the bike runs.

 

 

 

As far as fuel goes how does the exhaust look/smell?  If you disconnect the fuel line at the carb and let the fuel run into a jar is there good flow?  You should need to put it on prime to try this.

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It's the stock carb. Are you saying the main jet would fall out through the drain plug? I'm pretty sure it wouldn't fit.

 

When you say "just below the RR" where exactly do you mean? 

 

The exhaust looks and smells okay but the sound at idle is off and it's definitely miss firing when I gas it.

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It's the stock carb. Are you saying the main jet would fall out through the drain plug? I'm pretty sure it wouldn't fit.

 

When you say "just below the RR" where exactly do you mean? 

 

The exhaust looks and smells okay but the sound at idle is off and it's definitely miss firing when I gas it.

Still need to know What bike we are talking about and What carb is on it.. BSR36 or FCR39?

 ONLY the FCR39 has a drain plug,, and yes the main jet can be replaced though that plug. though a pain and I prefer to just remove the carb 

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So I found the problem. The needle cap had come unseated in the boot inside the carb. I guess I didn't push it in hard enough when I last adjusted the clip, at least I hope I didn't because I'd rather not have this keep happening.

 

Of course I had already pulled the carb out to check the float bowl before checking the needle >.<

 

Also isn't this the drain plug on the BSR? (see pic) I never bother with it though as I just drain it by tilting it a few times.

 

PS. I have been struggling to get the jetting perfect and after this endeavor the bike is bogging out during WOT, it runs great from idle -> 3/4 though. Is that a lean condition?

CarbDrainPlug.JPG

Edited by Slappysan

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For future reference if you remove the airbox door the plug is where the very front edge of the door covers up.

 

Good that you found the problem.

 

Above 3/4 revs is mostly the main jet.  What size do you have?

 

As the revs come up and the needle lifts higher it reaches a point where it is not controlling fuel flow and at this point the size of the main jet and the pressure differential between the float bowl and the carb venturi control fuel flow.

 

If it is close you can get an idea which way to change it by first removing the airbox door and going for a ride.  Then put the door back on and also tape off 1/3 of the 3x3 hole.  Go for a ride.  If it ran better before with the door off then the jet should be smaller.  If it ran better with the tape the jet should be larger.

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So I found the problem. The needle cap had come unseated in the boot inside the carb. I guess I didn't push it in hard enough when I last adjusted the clip, at least I hope I didn't because I'd rather not have this keep happening.

 

Of course I had already pulled the carb out to check the float bowl before checking the needle >.<

 

Also isn't this the drain plug on the BSR? (see pic) I never bother with it though as I just drain it by tilting it a few times.

 

PS. I have been struggling to get the jetting perfect and after this endeavor the bike is bogging out during WOT, it runs great from idle -> 3/4 though. Is that a lean condition?

Sure thats a drain... but not the large open drain PLUG of the FCr39 that one user was trying to tell you to remove in order to check the main jet.

 

The needle cap comes off two ways.. not installed all the way.. or you broke one of the plastic fingers that hole it in place when installing it... and now it will keep coming off till the slide is replaced. 

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