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WP Twin Chamber forks, tuning/setup

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How do I tell?  Do I just take it all apart to find out?

 

I found this http://www.dirtrider.com/features/ktm-fork-fix/ - anyone have a video or more details on this, I found it to be useful but never gone there I find it hard to read and poorly detailed. I read a sentence and then have a question to ask.

 

it said to pump to 30PSI? if I pump to 20 will my setup be soft? if I only take it to 20 will it damage something? 

 

I ordered seals and oil and asked a buddy for a suspension pump in case I need to do the above.

 

Mine is a 2013 250SX so I assume it is but I am not sure

 

 

Thanks

Nick

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How do I tell?  Do I just take it all apart to find out?

 

I found this http://www.dirtrider.com/features/ktm-fork-fix/ - anyone have a video or more details on this, I found it to be useful but never gone there I find it hard to read and poorly detailed. I read a sentence and then have a question to ask.

 

it said to pump to 30PSI? if I pump to 20 will my setup be soft? if I only take it to 20 will it damage something? 

 

I ordered seals and oil and asked a buddy for a suspension pump in case I need to do the above.

 

Mine is a 2013 250SX so I assume it is but I am not sure

 

 

Thanks

Nick

 

17psi is the spec pressure for the WP fork.  We've experimented with as low as 12psi.

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We struggled with harshness/deflection in braking bumps on the '13 and '14 450. Tried 10 different valvings, different base valves, mid-valves, oil levels, and for the heck of it, lower bladder pressure. Lower bladder pressure was insignificant for what we were trying to achieve.

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Did you try a bleed hole ?

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Why did u try lower presure than std .

Grasping at straws... although we got the forks working much better, they are not as good as the forks on my YZF or RMZ with regard to deflection in braking bumps.

 

Did you try a bleed hole ?

Yes, some of the stacks we tried used a bleed hole.

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Strange as I found them better

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Strange as I found them better

Overall, my modified WPs are better than stock YZF and especially RMZ forks, but not better than modified stuff... for me.  The WPs still have some deflection in braking bumps that prevent me from charging into rutted corners as hard as I can on the RMZ...

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Why don't u post up what ur running, there's people on here with wp experience can help u, I done a fair bit with the 250

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Why don't u post up what ur running, there's people on here with wp experience can help u, I done a fair bit with the 250

2-port base valve

24.15 (2)

24.1 (12)

20.1

18.1

16.1

14.1

12.1

 9.1

 8.25

 

20.1 (4)

18.1

16.1

14.15

10.2

.20 float

 

20.1 (3)

14.1

17.1

15.15

13.15

10.5 .2

 

365 fluid

.485 springs

17 psi

 

I don't have all my notes here, but as I recall this is back to the stock MV stacks... and better than any of the settings we tried with the stock base valve. 

 

Comments welcome.  Thanks

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Have you considered the shock as the culprit the the fork "issue"

 

I most frequently find that getting the shock "just right" often fixes any issues we can't sort around with a fork setting.
 

On the WP shocks you mentioned (13 and 14) I add bleed to the main piston, removed the bleed shim on the comp adjustment stack, stiffen the comp adjustment stack, and then valve it to suit the rider and conditions.
Without working on the shock on said bikes - I can't ever get a rider happy with the forks or the bike in general.

I've found this especially true on ktm's and kx450's as well, hell even crf450's - and when we test heavily with some of our customers who test frequently - they are often shocked to learn just how much difference the shock setting makes to their fork feeling. IF the rear is forcing the front into the next bump as the bump is coming...or any variation of that (too soft and hits bumper also forcing front down - as compared to a too stiff doing the same - or a poor rebound setting causing packing or just lack of traction or recovery), or rear is too soft but recovers well in time for the next bump not putting ENOUGH force into the front to let it work at the right time - you will have issues.

It's a cliche - but getting the front and the back to work in unison truly is important - and frequently that differs rider to rider.

To me - while it's off hand at the moment note wise, I also don't like the rebound setting on the forks, I like a similar float number but I recall being able to achieve it with an additional 10.2 or  (often I use) 11.2 clamp int the stack for additional peak stack deflection.  I usually run no cross over in the rebound if running 3 delta shims, and I usually prefer 6 rebound face shims.

 

I have no experience with the 2 port piston on the base.  I'm not a huge believer - but if someone wants to steer me in the right direction their I'll certainly listen.  Lastly, one must consider the difference in a WP base valve and the fork design vs say a Japanese base valve and fork design.  Considering the smaller piston on a WP vs a Japanese design, lets remember that it flows fluid at a faster velocity for a given shaft speed than that of a larger piston design because our area ratio is not stepping up so much.  Not to mention the leverage on the shim is less, and the port flow area is less, we end up with a base valve providing damping force and pressure in a different manner than that of a Japanese bike.

What all I mean there is to really say - we should consider usage of a softer base valve stack than that of a Japanese fork.  Of course in your instance the base valve looks nice to me as to something I would try running, although I don't hardly ever clamp off such a small shim.

 

All I just typed - and I really think you should play with your shock some more before you chase circles on the forks.  Heck even tire type and pressure make a world of difference.



 

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