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CRF-230F stumbles when you wheelie and jump.

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Hey Guys,

I bought an unridden 08' crf-230f. I put the power up kit in the other day. I used the 132 main. The 45 pilot. And put the needle in the forth notch. I

removed the airbox insert and the baffle.

Elevation 1200 feet above sea level. Temp. Mid 70's. Low humidity.

Runs great when you run it through the gears on the road. I didn't like....ah.. let me restate that. I didn't

think my neighbors would like the noise level so I cut the inner tip off the baffle and put it back in. Runs good..but tonight I took it out and was

riding a little more aggressively. I found that it stumbles when you wheelie and also when you get back on the throttle just prior to touch

down from a jump. I suspect it's a float / fuel level thing? Do other people see this issue?

I will attach a couple pics of my spark plug. One side of the electrode is brown the other is white. No doubt this is related to the position of the

intake valve relative to the electrode.

Thanks

Justin

sparkplug1.jpg

sparkplug2.jpg

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+ 1 on that float level, and also make sure the 'baffle plate', the white plastic cone that slides on the main jet. It's to minimize fuel sloshing away from main jet. The 132 main in the power up kit is notoriously rich, and if your plug looks like yours, brown to white, it may be a clue the float level could be low, not high. Someone else here said to check ur fuel level by looping clear hose on ur drain up next to float bowl, then open the little straight-slot drain screw so the fuel will run into it, revealing your actual float level. Should be just below the gasket area. This also shows if float is punctured..... I've gotta try that trick!

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120 main jet would be about right

for sea level.

118 for 2000-5000ft

05 or older needle would work even better with the clip at the 4th notch.

(Second from bottom)

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Strange that the mixture is lean while the needle is at the 4th notch from the top? This configuration is too rich with the 132 Main jets. The specification says to leave in the 3rd notch. Fourth notch is recommended with 120 Main Jet .. with 03- 05 needle at sea level, is not it?

Perhaps the problem is more fundamental.

Maybe you need to check the float level, but you have to check that there is an air excess also, as in the intake manifold or valve screw O-ring. Can they be broken? Obviously

clean carefully the Main and pilot jets with compressed air. A obstructions of them makes a lean mixture.

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Strange that the mixture is lean while the needle is at the 4th notch from the top? This configuration is too rich with the 132 Main jets. The specification says to leave in the 3rd notch. Fourth notch is recommended with 120 Main Jet .. with 03- 05 needle at sea level, is not it?

Perhaps the problem is more fundamental.

Maybe you need to check the float level, but you have to check that there is an air excess also, as in the intake manifold or valve screw O-ring. Can they be broken? Obviously

clean carefully the Main and pilot jets with compressed air. A obstructions of them makes a lean mixture.

Agreed :

One should ALWAYS check all of the basics first before troubleshooting a possible jetting problem.

( Valve adjustment, new spark plug, cleaned and properly oiled air filter, correct engine oil level, float level, fresh fuel, enough fuel flow from pet caulk , etc, etc)

Otherwise you may have a loose nut between the handlebars and the seat?

Lol (Just kidding) my bad....

Strange that the mixture is lean while the needle is at the 4th notch from the top? This configuration is too rich with the 132 Main jets. The specification says to leave in the 3rd notch. Fourth notch is recommended with 120 Main Jet .. with 03- 05 needle at sea level, is not it?

Perhaps the problem is more fundamental.

Maybe you need to check the float level, but you have to check that there is an air excess also, as in the intake manifold or valve screw O-ring. Can they be broken? Obviously

clean carefully the Main and pilot jets with compressed air. A obstructions of them makes a lean mixture.

Agreed :

One should ALWAYS check all of the basics first before troubleshooting a possible jetting problem.

( Valve adjustment, new spark plug, cleaned and properly oiled air filter, correct engine oil level, float level, fresh fuel, enough fuel flow from pet caulk , etc, etc)

Otherwise you may have a loose nut between the handlebars and the seat?

Lol (Just kidding) my bad....

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Hopefully not double post like I just did.... Mr Moderator, sir, can you delete my extra post please.

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the power up kit is garbage i actually lost power from it, it did exactly what you said it did. i switched all the way down to a 120 main jet and it was STILL rich. now im using a 118 main and a 45 pilot and seems to be working great my plug is a light tan.

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The power up kit is intended to be used with no snorkel and no baffle. If you still have the baffle in this set up will be super rich especially the main of 132. Btw Reading plugs is an art form in itself. It must be read at the base of the electrode.

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I read your comments guys.  I'll check the float level.  I might drop the needle a notch too.  (Lean out the part throttle engine operation just a bit..)  I'll double check the fuel screw adjustment too.      

 

 so just to confirm.....a "stumble" is NOT normal for the 230 when you wheelie or jump? 

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I wanna know HOW you did that Guy?

That's just it, I don't know how I did that.... :(

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I've been out playing around the house today.  The bike pulls like and sounds like a small tractor, but I'll tell you, when you stand it right up on the rear wheel..so that it's balancing on the rear wheel and moving forward with only light throttle.....it runs rough.  I thought maybe it was lean, but with one notch of choke..it seems worse.  Not better.  I've fiddled with the fuel screw a bit.  I've got it 2.25 turns out.  Nice crisp throttle response on level ground.  I don't have a piece of clear hose to check the fuel level in the float  bowl.   I know I need to check it though so I guess I should ask...can you actually bend the tab that holds the rubber tipped float "pin" or whatever it's called and change the fuel level.  I can't remember what the tab is made of, but suspect it's plastic. Also, can anyone tell me for sure where the fuel level needs to be when viewing the installed carb from the side? 

 

Also, warm your bike up good put it in second gear and then try a wheelie where you've got it balanced to the point that you just feather the throttle to keep it moving forward.  If your having to use lots of power to keep it up then you won't see what I'm talking about.  Mine runs good when you get it revved up in a wheelie.

 

 

I am going to try moving the needle jet a little lower from notch 4 to 3 for leaner part throttle response..  Honda could have made removing that needle easier.   Pretty sure I don't like this carb.     

 

If it wasn't for the power up kit and the woes it seems to cause....what would we talk about?????!!!!!    It's a "fair" motorcycle on many if not all other fronts.  

 

Thanks!  Justin

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That sounds like too high a float, mine runs smooth heck when it's almost upsidedown :-P!

Float level spec: 12.5 mm(0.49 in), measured 'about' the middle of the float tilted so that the tab just rests against the needle valve's spring pin. The tab is what u bend, it's thin aluminum, and I pry it up or down very carefully with a small straight screwdriver. For now I'd leave the needle alone, get float set first.

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Thanks for that FishFreq.  

 

I already moved the needle to the third position. I can't tell any difference.  Still seems to run great in all modes except the wheelie mode.  I really want to get this resolved.  I think you are right about the float, but I'm not sure where to measure the 12.5 mm from.  I assume you need to pull the carb.  Turn it sideways (not upside down)  so that the float's rubber tipped pin is just lightly closed then take the measurement.  I'll check youtube.

 

I'll put the needle back on slot 4 if that's the right move.

 

Justin

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Yea you've got the idea, the rubber tip is not visible unless u turn carb upsidedown, then the little float valve falls out onto the ground, under your workbench, Lol! Check the rubber cone tip for wear where it seals, should be perfectly smooth. Whatever height it's at go one mm lower and see how it wheelies.

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Put the tube up against the carb so you can 'read' it better/easier.  The fuel level should be even with the mating surface of the float bowl/carb body - your's looks spot on.

 

:ride:

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Sure enough, the fuel level is even with the mating surface.

I'm not sure what to do next.

I've never had a bike that did what this one does. I can live with it, but a good tune and a smooth runner in all modes is certainly is more ideal.

I know it's the carb, but it sure seems that there is nothing wrong with the carb. Really wish I had spent more time trying the stuff I've been trying with the power up (wheelies and jumps)...before I put the power up kit in. (I don't claim to be great rider...besides... It's a CRF230 not a CR250.) I realize you can only do so much with this machine. But something isn't right. Maybe I should just suck it up and put it back stock to see if the problem goes away.

Heck.....If nothing else... It's the nicest looking bike I've ever had!

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