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New 450x owner

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Hi guys I am a new owner of a 06 450x ..... I enjoy the bike !! Great power and handling . I do have a couple questions though , looking to see what is recommended for upgrading the valves/rebuild the motor in it due to the issues that these bike have .... Thanks

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Most go with Stainless Steel valves to replace the stock Titanium ones.  Make sure the work gets done at a good shop that will cut the seats at the 3 angles required and properly fit the valves.  I'd also have the guides replaced.

 

The other option is to buy a brand new head in the $500-$600 range all ready to go.

 

Jim.

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Ok thanks Jim , I will look into this. What is the life span/ hours service life of the valves/head.

Thanks

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 Your mileage may vary considerably depending on where you ride, how good you are with maintenance, and how you ride, but a good ball park is 300 hours on SS valves.

 

Jim.

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The other thing I have noticed is that it starts easy , but does smoke a little white/blue but that clears up after it has warmed up .

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Given the age, would not consider that abnormal.   Just keep a close eye on the oil level (check before every ride and every few hours).   If you have a consistent burn rate, then your looking at a piston and rings, and possibly a hone on the cylinder.    Valve seals might be leaking as well. 

 

If it's really worn, then you might be looking at getting it bored and an oversize piston.  Again though, that really would not be unexpected at this point.

 

If it's not a consistent burn, then it's just that things are a little loose until it gets warmed up.

 

Jim.

Edited by Jim Dettman

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I will keep a eye on it Jim , I have it at the shop getting the valves and compression checked on it this afternoon , I will post my findings....

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I also don't know when a piston or if a piston has been replaced either , or a valve change, doesn't smoke blue at all.

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You want .006 intake and .011 ex.

It's hard to do a decompression check on these motors due to the decompression mech.

After warm up you want 58 psi so you are in the ballpark there. Only way to know if piston is good is to measure it. Or when it starts to use a lot of oil (mine was due at 120-150 hours). It was just out of spec when I changed it, it still ran well. I just knew it was time and for 200$ was cheap insurance to me.

As far as valves after you get them shimmed check them again in 10 hours if they need a shim again it's time for new ones too. I'm about to hit 300 hours on mine. I clean my air filter often. And only had to shim after breakin.

Edited by StonedInNy

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If they still in spec and on the loose side it's ok. They may be a bit noisy than say .009 ex. would be. Valves tighten with use.

I wish their was a way (and I'm sure there is) to see if valves are SS or Ti. I'm not a metallurgist so I don't know how.

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If they still in spec and on the loose side it's ok. They may be a bit noisy than say .009 ex. would be. Valves tighten with use.

I wish their was a way (and I'm sure there is) to see if valves are SS or Ti. I'm not a metallurgist so I don't know how.

Well I am a Metallurgical Engineer and there certainly are ways to tell, although most require destructive testing. A quick hit on the grinder will tell you for sure...LOL

Easiest way to tell when you are reshimming, is to look at the top of the valve stem. If it's shiny, probably stainless. If it's a dull brown, probably Titanium.

Magnets don't work as Titanium is NEVER magnetic and the alloy of Stainless that is used in valves is usually from the austenitic stainless steel family and contains Nickel which renders it non-magnetic.

Another way to tell, is that if you shim the valve and 4 hours later it needs shimming again, it's a safe bet that it's OEM crap Titanium...:)

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