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Wiesco cranks? What do you think ?

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I just had my bottom end rebuilt and put a Wiesco crank in it and I'm pretty sure it went out today..the crank has less than 20 hrs on it so i don't know of this is even possible. But I have heard bad things about Wiesco cranks so it could be possible . What do y'all think? Should I call Wiesco and see if they would work with me? Probably gonna go with oem if they don't

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I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and make sure everything else is good. But it's doing the same thing it did last time my crank went out so I'm pretty sure the crank is done

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If/when I do a crank I'll probably buy a new rod and bearing and send it to a reputable machinist that knows how to press it within spec. 

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Take a picture after you pull the cylinder.

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Sure enough Wiesco crank gone with less than 20 hrs. The weight on both sides of the crank is broke some how

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I've got a yz too..and I've already took my case to my mechanic to be split. The weights on the side of the crank broke on both sides. If he doesn't throw the crank away I'll post pics when I get it back

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I've read way too many bad things about Wiseco rods and cranks to buy one.. Apparently their quality control is severely lacking and not up to par with the quality of pistons. Also cranks/rods are not made in USA.. Taiwan I think. I've seen a Wiseco rod snapped in half and shot through the case, and my Honda didn't do anything to deserve that nor did my wallet lol. I went with Pro-X rod, OEM crank and Wiseco piston.

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I've heard various stories including the 'bad batch' and the possible fakes... and also some good things. 

 

Anyway, my crank arrived yesterday and I had the run-out checked. 0.005" and 0.008". It seems to be well made and has no play where it shouldn't so I'm gonna go with it. 

 

Does anyone know if you can install it properly without a crank puller?

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Anyway, my crank arrived yesterday and I had the run-out checked. 0.005" and 0.008". It seems to be well made and has no play where it shouldn't so I'm gonna go with it. 

 

Does anyone know if you can install it properly without a crank puller?

Those run out numbers are terrible. I believe that would exceed the service limits on my crank (different cranks have different numbers though). My target is less than .001"

As soon as some bearings show up, I will be putting two cranks in using the heated "slug" method. If you look for the Ken OConner videos on youtube you will see him putting engines together that way. I tested that approach on the old bearings and crank and it worked perfectly.

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Sorry, my bad... missed zeroes. They are both under 1 thou (0.0005" and 0.0008"). 

 

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.

 

Is there anything else that I should check relating to the crank before or after installation that could affect it?

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Don't use Chinese crank bearings and hope that Wiseco didn't use a a cheap Chinese bearing on the big end.

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I have been building engines for 30 years;  Never use Wiseco anything unless there is no other choice, period.

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I have been building engines for 30 years; Never use Wiseco anything unless there is no other choice, period.

Thank god you're here with no proof of your knowledge or experience and no supporting evidence to tell us what brand we should and should not use. Appreciated

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