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General wheel/spoke question

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I just bought a brand new set of wheels that have not been mounted or had tires on them yet. I want to make sure they have been trued correctly so I tapped each spoke and they are not all the same at all. Is this incorrect? Should I send them back to be built correctly because it doesn't seem quite right. I know that when they are trued they have lateral and up and down run out but the rim did not start out as an ellipse so that excuse goes in the toilet. Both wheels are like this.

Edited by perkybewbs

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Tap the spokes with something metal. As long as they all roughly have a "ping" sound they should be ok. If its a "thud" sound then it probably needs to be tightened. Not all the spokes will be at the same tension but they should all be close.

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btw we aren't talking about dna rims or anything like that. This is quality stuff. They have a ping but they're all different front and rear. I'm going to call Monday but would like a second opinion. To me it seems like since the rim did not start out as an egg shape, the spokes should all be similarly pitched. I don't want to mount a set of tires to incorrectly built wheels given the serious cash that I dropped on them.

Edited by perkybewbs

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The 'tone' may/will vary some between spokes. All should ping, and the wheel should not have any up and down or side to side 'wobble'.

 

When building a wheel. You start with a near perfectly true rim. They are never perfectly true before spoking awheel. They might be but usually are off a little. Spokes are inserted and all nipples tightened the exact same amount. Once some tension is on all the spokes, truing begins. This process entails tightening some spokes a little more than others, hence the variation in pinging. A ping simply means the spoke is tight enough, not a measure of 'just right'. That only happens with a torque wrench (just tight enough, not over tightened) and a true rim.

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The 'tone' may/will vary some between spokes. All should ping, and the wheel should not have any up and down or side to side 'wobble'.

When building a wheel. You start with a near perfectly true rim. They are never perfectly true before spoking awheel. They might be but usually are off a little. Spokes are inserted and all nipples tightened the exact same amount. Once some tension is on all the spokes, truing begins. This process entails tightening some spokes a little more than others, hence the variation in pinging. A ping simply means the spoke is tight enough, not a measure of 'just right'. That only happens with a torque wrench (just tight enough, not over tightened) and a true rim.

Thank you for verifying my logic. I would've thought the same thing but it would seem as though I am a dumbass for believing such a far fetched thing. I've recently purchased the excel spoke wrench and have no doubt it is a quality product. They seem to stand behind their stuff. Got some d.i.d. St-x with rad hubs and what rad claims are "heavy" spokes. Maybe they messed up and installed stock size. They look pretty good and seem pretty solid though. I'm thankful they did not use spline drive nipples. Here they are. Should I go through the trouble of test fitting them before I mount tires? Are spacers sometimes off on aftermarket setups?ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1406955352.968494.jpg

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Thank you for verifying my logic. I would've thought the same thing but it would seem as though I am a dumbass for believing such a far fetched thing. I've recently purchased the excel spoke wrench and have no doubt it is a quality product. They seem to stand behind their stuff. Got some d.i.d. St-x with rad hubs and what rad claims are "heavy" spokes. Maybe they messed up and installed stock size. They look pretty good and seem pretty solid though. I'm thankful they did not use spline drive nipples. Here they are. Should I go through the trouble of test fitting them before I mount tires? Are spacers sometimes off on aftermarket setups?attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1406955352.968494.jpg

Spacers should be correct. I have never seen the 'off' but I have heard of people being givent he wrong ones. Test fitting is a good idea and a time when you can check true.

 

What really matters is the straightness of the inside of the wheel flange, that the tire bead sits on. Hold a zip tye and brace your arm to be rock steady. Hacve the tip of the tye barely be away from the rim. Spin the rim. The movement should be minimal, less than the thickness of a matchbook cover (.020") Check side to side and vertical run out. The reason it is best checking the inside is the rim flange on many bikes are hollow. A ding on the outside does not translate to a out of true rim.

 

If you have a dinged rim, you cannot strighten it by tightening or losening spokes. It must be pressed back into shape. Spokes can only move larges wallows and egg shapes out of a rim (and even then, not always) Rims are very stiff and spokes are supports. Not at all like a bicycle wheel where you can move the rim significantly with just a turn or two of the spokes.

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I checked them both. They seem to be straight but have heard lots of people make a big deal about spoke tone and if I need to send them back because they aren't all the same. The wheels are true but I thought the spokes being different may cause it to go out of true at some point.

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I checked them both. They seem to be straight but have heard lots of people make a big deal about spoke tone and if I need to send them back because they aren't all the same. The wheels are true but I thought the spokes being different may cause it to go out of true at some point.

If the spokes are all evenly tightened and the wheel is slightly out of true, you tighten a few spokes to pull it into true. Those spokes will be tighter than the rest out of necessity.

 

When checking spokes, you want them all to be tight. Then you check for true, tightening key ones further is needed.

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